New Speedhut Gauges!

[footgoose]

“Mine fly concentric. Don't get between 'em. You could get pinched . . “. Just ask those two turkey vultures

[docc]

“Mine fly concentric. Don't get between 'em. You could get pinched . . “. Just ask those two turkey vultures

Maybe that's what skeered 'em off!

[BLIGHT]

 

 

Thanks, again! It was a long, drawn-out affair, but the final outcome is encouraging!

 

Just ask BLIGHT!

 

Fitting Speedhut gauge replacements in a dry climate like SoCal, or Arizona, USA, is comparatively easy. Trying to secure them to moisture infiltration otherwise? The jury is still out. I've done my best. Be advised: they are not delivered "water resistant" as needed for motorcycle applications.

 

And, again, you can get Speedhut to design the faces anyway you like, but the process adds cost. My Speedhut were almost double what BLIGHT spent.

 

Still worth it!

Where is the issue docc? is moisture ingress likely around the bezel or more the casing? I dont believe totally sealed instruments are any good. I've had 2 bikes that fogged the instruments regularly due to factory sealing and the cure was to drill vent holes in the case where water entry was unlikely. Worked both times with no issues for the instruments, however no sealing around the bezel would be a big problem on a bike.

 

Ciao 

 

 

 

Whoa, that sky looks ominous!

 

[BLIGHT]

Below is my order summary for the 'plain' face design using selections from their design section.... just FYI:

 

I found a Christmas 20% off promo code but the current list prices are close to this...I just checked and the tach is ~$139

 

BLIGHT

 

PS: By the way someone suggested I put the GPS antenna inside the seat cowl... I DID in fact!

 

The pic on top of the tail was just a test because it was not working well up near the front of the bike.

 

One of the other pics shows it taped to the clutch reservoir, and that didn't work well either.... my massive body and head blocked the signal.

[gstallons]

f my gauges were inop or fail soon , I know what is happening next .

[Kiwi_Roy]

I never tried to seal the rear of my gauges on a naked VII, it got ridden in the wet many times, I think Docc is right it's better to let them breath the electronics should be warm enough to prevent condensation.

I recommend going with the pulse input speedo, save a few bucks and eliminate that pesky antenna. You have that shaft spinning around in the gearbox anyway, why not make use of it, a magnet and a reed switch is all you need to make a sensor. You do have to calibrate it but that is very easy.

[Chuck]

I never tried to seal the rear of my gauges on a naked VII, it got ridden in the wet many times, I think Docc is right it's better to let them breath the electronics should be warm enough to prevent condensation.

I recommend going with the pulse input speedo, save a few bucks and eliminate that pesky antenna. You have that shaft spinning around in the gearbox anyway, why not make use of it, a magnet and a reed switch is all you need to make a sensor. You do have to calibrate it but that is very easy.

I still have your drawing on how to do that if the time comes.    Let me say that at the Oregon nationals when we briefly met, I fully intended to get back, shoot the breeze, and  thank you for all you've done for my and *our* electrical education over the years. For whatever reason, the rally got in the way, but *thanks, Roy* I and *we* really do appreciate it. 

[swooshdave]

I never tried to seal the rear of my gauges on a naked VII, it got ridden in the wet many times, I think Docc is right it's better to let them breath the electronics should be warm enough to prevent condensation.

I recommend going with the pulse input speedo, save a few bucks and eliminate that pesky antenna. You have that shaft spinning around in the gearbox anyway, why not make use of it, a magnet and a reed switch is all you need to make a sensor. You do have to calibrate it but that is very easy.

 

Ironically the newer gauges use cold LEDs and the old incandescent bulbs would actually warm up the insides and get the humidity out.

[BLIGHT]

Hey guys....new pics of a cheap gauge cup idea I came up with!

 

I bought some 3" IPS ABS (plastic) end caps at the hardware store. (3.5" ID, 4" OD)

 

I glued these sanded ABS caps to some sanded-down threaded rings that come with the SpeedHut gauges...

 

Here is the standard threaded ring:

 

 

After sanding for clearance with the center lamp cluster....

 

 

I used Super-Glue GEL to bond the pieces together, and painted them black:

 

 

 

 

Oh, I drilled a 1/2" or so hole in the cap for the gauge wires to exit...

 

I had to grind down the center piece (a whole lot!)

 

 

The back cover of the idiot-light cluster is just attached with some vinyl tape for now... I'm gonna fasten it with some screws in the AM

 

Here's the completed (for now) SpeedHut digital gauge and my improvised ABS cup assy:

 

 

And a shot of it behind the Ducati headlight fairing... can't see much of my hard work...

 

 

 

One more pic of the bike:

 

 

It was quite a bit of work, and you can't see much of what I did behind the fairing...anyway, it's DONE!

 

 

 

 

 

BLIGHT

[Chuck]

Looks good. 

[Scud]

Clever, and good-looking solution. I have some 80mm O-rings left over from when I put Speedhuts on my (ex) LeMans. The O-rings will reduce vibration a bit and give you a good seal to prevent water getting into the cups. Yours for the asking (just send me your address in a PM if you want a set of 4). 

 

FWIW - you could split some black rubber grommets and achieve a cleaner wire-exit at the back of the cups.

[footgoose]

how's it look from the gauge side? the bike looks great btw. I'm glad you kept the color. It really pops in the sun."like strawberry wine"

[BLIGHT]

how's it look from the gauge side? the bike looks great btw. I'm glad you kept the color. It really pops in the sun."like strawberry wine"

Thanks! She is a beauty... pic #2 on page 1 of this thread shows the gauges.

[BLIGHT]

Looks good. 

Thanks much!

 

I just had a thought, these caps are pretty thick wall... if you wanted to ditch the threaded rings altogether, you could use the set-screw idea others have used.

These ABS caps can easily be drilled and tapped for 3 little Allen set-screws.

It would require a bit of relief at the edge near the 'idiot lamp' cluster.... it's pretty tight in there, and the threaded ring is smaller OD, and acts as a spacer for the cap(s).

 

Actually I think white PVC S40 caps are a little thinner wall, and the same 3.5" ID, so a smaller OD.... might allow for better clearance in the center.

PVC being white, your paint may scratch if not careful... the ABS is black and scratches won't really show.

BLIGHT

[BLIGHT]

Looks good. 

Cheers!