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Posted

The manual states that #18 is to be removed first using the "special tool." Once #13 is removed, the "special pinion puller" can be applied to remove the pinion.

Posted

 

 

. In a crisis you could probably undo it with a pin punch or rapid blows of the beak

:grin: Colin has a way with words, doesn't he?

Posted

Why not pull the whole assembly out then use an old uni joint half to hold the shaft via the splines and then a large ring spanner? Hows that sound?

OR do the above and use the drive shaft as a big tool to turn the splined shaft. So attatch the drive shaft onto the splined shaft with the assembly held in the vice with the retaining nut and turn the drive shaft 90 deg and use it as a kind of nuckle bar? would that work?

 

Ciao

Posted

How about pulling the whole assembly out as Pete did then holding the nut in the vice and using an old uni joint half to grab the splines and using a bar through the bearing holes and doing it that way?

 

Ciao

Posted

Guys I did it

I did put the shaft in a vise and tried to undo the nut using a 5 feet lever I lift the work bench and the nut remains in place  :angry2:

The workshop manual said the torque for that nut is around 200 Nm so it should be tight but man mine is tight tight.

I guess I read someone let the Bevel Box in the bike and use the bevel box and brakes to hold the pice and then with a lever undo the nut.

Any Ideas beside using the special tool I do not have, I can not borrow or I will not buy for sure.

Talking about the tower nut I did a tool myself to undo this one  :grin:

As usual thanks for your help and thogths

Posted

So, you made a tool and got the tower nut (castellated nut) #18 off, but #13 will not come loose?

 

Possibly treat with penetrating oil and apply some heat?

 

The mixture of 1/2 acetone and 1/2 automatic transmission fluid is excellent for this penetration.

Posted

 

 

The mixture of 1/2 acetone and 1/2 automatic transmission fluid is excellent for this penetration.

 This will be next  :thumbsup:

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