More Heartache Oil Leaks

[LowRyter]

'01 V11 Sport has been spraying quite a bit of oil from the front of the engine for the last few months.  I recently serviced the bike and replaced the pan gasket but it didn't fix the problem.  The oil lines seen solid, I can't even move the attaching nuts with a wrench.  

 

It doesn't drip, it only gets misty dirty when I ride it.  I am hoping it's not another issue like the gearbox.  At the same time, other than the aesthetics of it, it's no problem regarding oil consumption. 

 

So is there any consensus or BTDT?  Appreciate your help.  This 100 miles or so.

 

[docc]

Probably timing chest gasket.  Certainly, nothing like you went through with your gearbox!

 

See if you can clean it off (soapy water and a brush or a spray solvent, if you like). Once dry,  spray a common foot powder around the timing chest seam (bottom, top, and both sides) then go for ride and keep checking to see where the foot powder starts to discolor. There is the leak.

 

That said, there is a Sump Spacer gasket that may be the culprit.

[czakky]

The easiest leak to fix is the sealing washers behind the oil lines. Mine were leaking once.

 

Timing gasket is like a three-four hour job the first time, two the second time.

 

Upper sump gasket is only slightly harder than doing a filter change. Might as well roper sloper it while you’re there.

[MartyNZ]

Is it possible that the front crank seal has a slight leak? The alternator rotor could turn a drip into mist. It's only four screws to remove the cover to look at the alternator. 

[Scud]

All good suggestions above. You can also check to make sure the bolts on the timing cover and oil sump are tight. But if you're getting that much of a mess after 100 miles, you should probably only ride 1/2 mile with a clean and "powdered" engine. 

[LowRyter]

Probably timing chest gasket.  Certainly, nothing like you went through with your gearbox!

 

See if you can clean it off (soapy water and a brush or a spray solvent, if you like). Once dry,  spray a common foot powder around the timing chest seam (bottom, top, and both sides) then go for ride and keep checking to see where the foot powder starts to discolor. There is the leak.

 

That said, there is a Sump Spacer gasket that may be the culprit.

 

Thanks Docc, 

 

 

You too Marty

[fotoguzzi]

Mine did that from the timing cover seam.. I just lived with it since the level never went down on the dipstick.

[LowRyter]

The easiest leak to fix is the sealing washers behind the oil lines. Mine were leaking once.

 

Timing gasket is like a three-four hour job the first time, two the second time.

 

Upper sump gasket is only slightly harder than doing a filter change. Might as well roper sloper it while you’re there.

 

perhaps it's the upper sump. i've got the slopage plate and I've never taken it off.

 

I always take the front cover off to set the valves, wouldn't that be wet if it was the front seal or the timing set?

 

Regarding the oil lines, I've never been able to get them to budge even when dropping the pan to change the filter.  They're really solid.

[czakky]

Behind the stator cover/rotor is a crank seal. Yes you would see oil on the stator if that was leaking. You can actually change that without removing the timing cover.

 

Not sure about your 2000 but on my 02 there is a “spigot” that is threaded into the upper sump then the hoses thread onto that. Behind the spigots there is a sealing washer. I’ve replaced mine because it leaked.

 

Come to think of it I’ve replaced all these possible leaking points on my bike at least once...

[docc]

LowRyter, if you have a sloppage plate, then there are two gaskets above the sump spacer. And it means someone has had it apart before. That would be a good place to start. Perhaps it just needs snugged up?

[Chuck]

Like mentioned above, I'd just clean off the mess, spray some powdered athlete's foot powder over the whole area, and start it up. It won't take long to find out what is leaking, and will save a bunch of guess work.

[LowRyter]

LowRyter, if you have a sloppage plate, then there are two gaskets above the sump spacer. And it means someone has had it apart before. That would be a good place to start. Perhaps it just needs snugged up?

 

I checked the sloppage plate when I dropped the pan.  All of the fasteners were tight.  Since it hasn't been touched since I purchased the bike 30k miles ago, I would be surprised if the upper gasket was leaking but OTOH, it's misting somewhere.  

 

BTW, are the oil lines supposed to be frozen to the point that I can't wrench them off?

 

Yeah, I'll try talcum powder.

 

thanks guys

[LowRyter]

After a 10 miles ride it's all clear on the front of the engine.  I'll just keep riding it. 

 

The talcum powder seems to do a nice job cleaning the engine.

[Lucky Phil]

Locating oil weaps of this magnitude is a skill and requires a detailed eye and patience esp on the front of the engine where oily road grime can make it harder. Docc was on the right track with the clean it perfectly and dry it off and apply powder. I personally use the developer froma dye penetrant check kit I have but if you have a strong light, good eyesight and sometimes a mag glass you can do it without.

The other tool that is usefull is absorbent paper or regular tissues. After a short ride inspect the joints with a good light and press the absorbant paper on the area you think is suspect. Any slight oil weep will be immediatly visable on the tissue paper. 

Of course the oil will whick along the joint so sometimes the short ride is better because you can get a better indication of the location before the whicking gets too far.

Over the years I have troubleshot most types of oil leaks and never had one that stumped me. Had a few that were tough but always found them. The other tip is its not always the most obvious location. My 1198 from new had oil around the base gasket on the rear cylinder, so the obvious thought is a leaking base gasket, right? No it was a leaking rear cylinder rocker cover. The oil was tracking down the side of the cylinder behind the belt cover and ending up at the crankcases then working its way around to the back of the cylinder crankcase joint. The rear rocker cover had omitted on factory assembly the small amount of silicon sealer required around the sharp transitions on the rubber gasket.

The oil travelling down the cylinder behind the belt cover was not at all obvious as the oil spreads and becomes a film which leads me to the other essential tool. A clean dry finger. A clean dry finger pressed agains a weeping joint then looked at with a good light is a very good tool, believe it or not.

The oil cooler lines may well be quite tight, often tight enough to unscrew the nipple out of the cases if you dont hold it seperately.

Good luck.

 

Ciao     

[LowRyter]

thanks Phil.  The rain came in today and cut my ride short.  I'll just have to keep riding it until the oil remerges.