More Heartache Oil Leaks

[Scud]

Aw c'mon... you've got a whole bunch of competent advisors here who can guide you, step-by-step, if you post pics of what you're doing.  And think of all the Grateful Dead songs you can play while you do the work.

 

But as a temporary fix, you could try this:

 

Do the foot powder thing again and find out exactly where it is leaking. Give that area a serious degrease and dry it. Force a little grey sealant (such as Threebond 1184) into the affected and surrounding area. This strategy slowed down a timing cover leak on my Scura until I had time to deal with it properly. But it makes more of a mess to clean up later and could remove some paint. I didn't care, because the Scura was already molting it's engine paint like old snake skin.

 

Of course, if you find out the leak is coming from an upper sump gasket, that's really easy to do properly. Barely more work than an oil change if you are a "pan-dropper."

[LowRyter]

thanks Scud.  For sure if it's upper sump, I'll get after it.  

[bbolesaz]

Does pulling the rotor require a "Special Bolt" like the Airhead BMW's do ?

[Scud]

No special tools required. You just have to be able to lock the engine to get the nut off (and to set torque to reinstall). I put the bike in gear and stuck a board through the rear wheel so it the swingarm would stop any possible movement. There is a little key that goes in a slot on the crankshaft. 

 

Here's a link to the parts diagram at Harpers:  http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/1990-2000-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-sport-mandello-1100-1999-2001/generator-regulator-en-v11-sport-mandello.html

[LowRyter]

Thanks Scud. Thanks for everyone's help.  For now I'll live with it.  The leak appears to originate from the allenhead that was loose.  After I rode it was still snug but unfortunately, leaking.  It's the one that's at 10 o'clock (top one in the photo). 

 

[swooshdave]

The good news is that your engine doesn't have athlete's fungus.

[andy york]

bring it on over -  already done 1 this year. Leak from the same spot ...upper left (looking at it 

from the front). For some reason there is some movement of that cover and snugging up that bolt will not help

because the gasket has been "rubbed through". It may still be in 1 piece but it will be thinner in that spot.

Yes   use the newer metal core gasket...have not seen any leaks with it. Yet !

I don't know if you have the ability to remove the front wheel but that can be helpful.

Then hit the stator nut with air gun and off she comes. I have a double deep well socket I can send you 

to fit over the shaft. 

 

Lemme know 

 

andy

[LowRyter]

Thanks Andy,

 

For now, I'll live with it.

 

 

Probably the reason that Guzzi decided to paint the engines black.  

[docc]

Thanks Andy,

 

For now, I'll live with it.

 

 

Probably the reason that Guzzi decided to paint the engines black.  

The black painted engines might be known to leak even more commonly from the timing chest.

 

I put up with my Bell Housing leak(s)  for many years. Even carrying CRC Electronics Cleaner to rinse off the oily mess on rides.

 

I did get weary of people staring and pointing, though . . .

[LowRyter]

Perhaps you guys can provide a bit of advice for the removal of the timing cover?

 

 

1. I checked the manual but could not find a torque value for the 10mm allen head that attaches to the timing cover to the frame.

 

2. Do I need to support the engine from the bottom when I remove the 10mm allen heads that attach the timing cover to the frame?

 

3. There plugs at the bottom of the of the timing cover similar to the 10mm allenheads at the top.  Are there fasteners under the plugs or are they only cosmetic since there are no bottom frame rails? 

 

4. The big nut on the alternator is torqued at 60 lb-ft (80 NM)?

 

sorry to be a whiney ass on this but I've researched this and had a few questions.  I have a buddy with shop table and I need to be prepared on how to get the job completed before I approach him. 

[Scud]

1. There's a one-page list of torque values near the front of the shop manual. It goes by thread size though, not by the size of the tool required to turn it. It has all the standard size threads listed.

 

2. Support underneath with a platform jack is a good idea - I don't recall if it it's "needed" but I would use one.

 

3. The plug on the lower right side of bike can stay in. The similar spot on the lower left takes the big sidestand bolt. so you will need to remove the sidestand as part of the "fun."

 

4. That alternator torque spec should be on the page I mentioned above.

 

BTW - I use an app called "converter plus" on my phone. It has torque settings. So you can type in NM from the middle of the range and get a mid-range lb-ft number back.

[LowRyter]

Thanks Scud,

 

I got the the torque specs on my PDF copy of the shop manual.  I couldn't find it for the 10mm allenhead but I did for the alternator nut (80 nm = 60 lbft). 

 

I forgot about the side stand.     For sure I'll need to put it on a shop stand now.  

 

thanks

[kglm]

There is a some movement (stress) between engine and front support. When you install front support back it maybe need to lift engine a bit (1-2mm) 

 

-KG-

[LowRyter]

Thanks very much KGLM

 

8 k-gm= 58 lb-ft

[docc]

Thanks very much KGLM

 

8 k-gm= 58 lb-ft

Hm . . . I'm getting 78.45Nm . . .