docc Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Every time I pull the rear wheel, I clean and re-grease the toothed drive hub and the drive from the bevel box with Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease. Liberally, I might add. Copiously, even. It appears that I am likely over-greasing and the excess makes its way to my wheel (and tire ) eventually. (Having struggled to achieve a sealed rear drive, this splatter does not smell, at all, like gearoil. Pretty sure this is grease.)
docc Posted March 7, 2018 Author Posted March 7, 2018 So, the question is: How to properly clean, lubricate, and maintain the toothed drive interface between the rear bevel drive and the rear wheel? How much grease is enough?
Chuck Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 I have 2 words for you, Docc. Sig 3000. Maybe that is 3? It's the most tenacious lube I've ever used. The next time you are in there, it will be too. I use it pretty liberally without fling off. 2017-03-21_07-56-27 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr 1
LowRyter Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 At least you know you put enough on. Just carry a rag & wD40 around with you when you ride it.
docc Posted March 7, 2018 Author Posted March 7, 2018 Looks like I'm using the wrong grease (and probably too much of it).
Ian Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 I agree with the wurth sig 3000 grease, I just used it on my splines and it is incredibly sticky stuff
MartyNZ Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Every time I pull the rear wheel, I clean and re-grease the toothed drive hub and the drive from the bevel box with Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease. Liberally, I might add. Copiously, even. It appears that I am likely over-greasing and the excess makes its way to my wheel (and tire ) eventually. I think that some grease on that spline is really important. So important that a little cleaning job is better than not having enough grease in there. I have to fit a new cush drive plate, and a near new bevel box to my bike this coming winter. The spline teeth in the crown wheel spline, and drive plate are 1/3 worn away, probably because of lack of lubrication in the bike's 80,000 km before I got it. Backlash makes the bike uncomfortable to ride really slowly in first gear. I bought the bike cheaper because of this spline wear, and I'm finally going to fix it. I have been greasing that spline with Penrite wheel bearing grease, and think a little too much grease is better than too little on that spline. Cleaning is easier than replacing worn parts.
Steve S Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Why do you think the splines need so much grease? they don't need to move after the wheel is fitted so there's no wear caused, when I first remove a wheel from a V11 I'm usually finding they are over greased and I'm cleaning it off
LowRyter Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Why do you think the splines need so much grease? they don't need to move after the wheel is fitted so there's no wear caused, when I first remove a wheel from a V11 I'm usually finding they are over greased and I'm cleaning it off So far as I can tell, too much is never enough here. You might go blind if you read about the alternator light.
docc Posted March 7, 2018 Author Posted March 7, 2018 I know that I used excessive grease this last fitting since the replacement reardrive was totally dry. And I'm a known nutcase when it comes to applying lubrication. I will simply pull the wheel and wipe off all the excess and monitor the result. The Wurth product looks perfect for this appication, but I'm having trouble finding a source for the Wurth grease. MGCycle is out of stock. Anyone have a source?
MartyNZ Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Why do you think the splines need so much grease? they don't need to move after the wheel is fitted so there's no wear caused, when I first remove a wheel from a V11 I'm usually finding they are over greased and I'm cleaning it offGood question Steve. When I hold the driveshaft, the wheel has about 120mm of lost motion slop at the rim. I thought the bevel gears were worn or poorly adjusted, but no, all the slop is in the output spline. So I can say for certain that there is movement and wear in the spline. Grease will reduce wear, and exclude water & road grit. I'm not suggesting "so much grease", but I think some will help your bike last.
LowRyter Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 I know that I used excessive grease this last fitting since the replacement reardrive was totally dry. And I'm a known nutcase when it comes to applying lubrication. ..................... Anyone have a source? No need to talk about your sex life, Docc. I think you might be posting on the wrong forum.
Chuck Posted March 7, 2018 Posted March 7, 2018 Hmm, I got a tube from MG Cycle a few years ago. It's a lifetime supply. Want me to send you some until MG is back in stock?
docc Posted March 7, 2018 Author Posted March 7, 2018 Hmm, I got a tube from MG Cycle a few years ago. It's a lifetime supply. Want me to send you some until MG is back in stock? Ah, thank you, sir! But, all good for now. I'm going to clean up the mess and watch for MGC to restock it. I appreciate knowing about the product. It certainly appears to be perfect for the drive hub.
MartyNZ Posted March 8, 2018 Posted March 8, 2018 Docc, if you are looking for an alternative if you can't get Wurth grease, BMW specifies Staburags NBU 30 PTM for spline lubrication. I think Kluber makes it. You can buy it on ebay Germany for a squillion per metric teaspoon.Castrol makes Optimol paste PL, which has molybdenum disulfide incorporated, another candidate which may be good too.If you have seen a dry spline which is all rusty, pitted, and worn, then you have seen fretting corrosion or tribocorrosion. You need to lubricate, and exclude water and oxygen. Grease is the answer.
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