TPS voltage, which is right, Guzzidiag or voltmeter

[Ian]

Just finished the final stage of giving Sophia a major service which was to check the CO trim (it was already set to 0).

 

Anyways, when I serviced the bike I set the TPS at spot on 531mv, but when I had guzzidiag connected it was reading 436mv on the guzzidiag dashboard.

 

The bike is running beautifully but I’m wondering which reading is correct, my voltmeter or guzzidiag?

 

Anyone know the answer?

[docc]

The only TPS setting that is important (critical!) is the Baseline with the throttle butterfly entirely closed and not fouled by the idle stop screw, high idle cam, throttle rod, or dirty throttle bore.

 

This can only be done with a quality voltmeter looking for (150-)157 mV.  Guzzidiag is not the correct interface to read TPS voltage.

 

Once the entire ("Decent") Tune-up is complete, Step 6 is to put your idle where you, your V11, and the universe are in a a happy harmony. Many of us like a higher idle (1200-1400) rather than the spec'd 1050+/- 50.

 

At this point it really doesn't matter what the idle TPS voltage is as long as the idle is high enough for said harmony.

It is the Baseline (closed) TPS setting that indexes the TPS to the ECU mapping.

 

Basic "Decent Tune-up" here, with links to various reference posts and threads.

[Ian]

Thanks Doc, I did all the decent tune up steps. I had forgotten that the 531mv is with a fully closed butterfly. With the idle set the reading would be different anyways.

 

The decent tune up procedure is excellent btw. Great work.

 

Now it’s time to get out and ride it

[docc]

Good on ya!

 

Just to clarify, the fully closed "Baseline" TPS voltage, measured with a quality voltmeter is 157 mV (Meinolf's derivation). 

 

Guzzidiag can't perform that task and it helps mightily to use the Casper's TPS Breakout Harness.

 

The idle TPS voltage of around 530mV is not critical. At that point, where ever it ends up is fine.

Our respected friend. Meinolf, agrees:

"The value after reconnecting the linkage doesn't have to be 525mV. It can be 500 or 400mV. The ECU will interpolate anyway (unless you follow below procedure, then your idle setting is exactly at a break point). Set it so the specific bike idles best."

 

One of the least considered factors in the run quality of the V11 is the battery condition, high current relays, and clean/ solid/ treated electrical connections and ground (earthing) paths.

[Ian]

Thanks Docc,

 

You are correct re the 157mv, that is what I had meant to write not 531mv. Brain fart drinking bear and posting at the same time!

 

I did pull the relays and inspect the contacts, they were all super clean. I swapped out the battery for a new one though because the old one was cranking slow and giving up after a few attempts.

 

BTW, this is an awesome forum, I’ve learned so much good info about these bikes and how to set them up properly. It’s saved me a lot of grief