Rox Lemans Posted July 29, 2018 Posted July 29, 2018 So do I need to remap for the new mufflers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk nope do a decent tune-up. repeat on time. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 Actually you should remap. Of course it's debateable . But to my experience when I first got my Lemans and threw on Mistrals and noticed it ran okay but a little hot and lost a little top end. I was also told the ecu would adjust to a crossover (because getting a crosssover is what getting pipes will lead to) is total hogwash. I eventually brought my bike running like crap to Guzzitech for a custom map. It became a whole new bike. Bikes with early era FI should be remapped. Newer stuff is a case by case . But to get specific to the MM in the V11? Get it reflashed. Not doing it you're not just sacraficing power for tone you're doing your bike a disservice..
swooshdave Posted July 29, 2018 Author Posted July 29, 2018 Dave, how are you liking the cans? I think the Agostini's on my '00 Sport are basically the same can as the Mistral, and I gotta say I like the sound they make much better than the MG Ti cans. Deep, loud enough, with no "glass pack" rasp. I think you made the right choice over the Staintune's. I think they are great. Low rumble at idle but not annoying when riding. Just what I wanted.
swooshdave Posted July 29, 2018 Author Posted July 29, 2018 So do I need to remap for the new mufflers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk nope do a decent tune-up. repeat on time. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 Actually you should remap. Of course it's debateable . But to my experience when I first got my Lemans and threw on Mistrals and noticed it ran okay but a little hot and lost a little top end. I was also told the ecu would adjust to a crossover (because getting a crosssover is what getting pipes will lead to) is total hogwash. I eventually brought my bike running like crap to Guzzitech for a custom map. It became a whole new bike. Bikes with early era FI should be remapped. Newer stuff is a case by case . But to get specific to the MM in the V11? Get it reflashed. Not doing it you're not just sacraficing power for tone you're doing your bike a disservice.. I need to do more research and see if someone will share their map.
docc Posted July 30, 2018 Posted July 30, 2018 Meinolf has likely constructed the most refined V11 map(s) in the world. There are specific adjustment parameters (valves, CO, and air bypass screws) to observe.
western trucker Posted January 22, 2020 Posted January 22, 2020 Hey I’m looking at getting new mufflers or my current ones fixed anyone know the pipe Diameter as I’m away from bike at the moment should have measured them when there last. Cheers I’m thinking black and loud ha ha
footgoose Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 41 minutes ago, western trucker said: Hey I’m looking at getting new mufflers or my current ones fixed anyone know the pipe Diameter as I’m away from bike at the moment should have measured them when there last. Cheers I’m thinking black and loud ha ha so which mufflers are you running WT? and what's needing fixed?
western trucker Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 I have some staintunes on there but they are dented badly so need re skinning I like the tone just they look terrible at the moment I have already contacted Cycleworks about getting them fixed so that is an option just thought I’d look about and see what’s around.
stewgnu Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 It’d actually be quite interesting to know the cost of repairing damaged silencers. I had assumed it wouldn’t be worth it.
western trucker Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 I was going to try and use this as an experiment by asking if they can be made louder and deeper by going to a larger diameter skin maybe maybe not anyway I’ll definitely post what I find
footgoose Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 8 hours ago, western trucker said: I have some staintunes on there but they are dented badly so need re skinning I like the tone just they look terrible at the moment I have already contacted Cycleworks about getting them fixed so that is an option just thought I’d look about and see what’s around. As I recall, Staintune are welded construction. Doesn't mean repair is impossible, just more difficult, ie; must be re-welded. Being stainless, they'll polish up nice. 7 hours ago, stewgnu said: It’d actually be quite interesting to know the cost of repairing damaged silencers. I had assumed it wouldn’t be worth it. The type with riveted on straps and removable end caps are easy to repair. DIY. If the end caps aren't messed up. Carbon fiber is a different story.
stewgnu Posted January 23, 2020 Posted January 23, 2020 So a mistral titty silencer would be one long nice titanium weld and a re-build...? Even so, doesn’t sound very diy footgoose? Or I am soooo behind in the guzziworld!
Lucky Phil Posted January 24, 2020 Posted January 24, 2020 17 hours ago, western trucker said: I have some staintunes on there but they are dented badly so need re skinning I like the tone just they look terrible at the moment I have already contacted Cycleworks about getting them fixed so that is an option just thought I’d look about and see what’s around. You cant reskin Staintunes as they are an all welded SS muffler. Just buy a new one or get the dents pulled out and maybe some weld and grind and polish. Ciao
footgoose Posted January 24, 2020 Posted January 24, 2020 1 hour ago, stewgnu said: So a mistral titty silencer would be one long nice titanium weld and a re-build...? Even so, doesn’t sound very diy footgoose? Or I am soooo behind in the guzziworld! If your Mistral is Ti and built like this Guzzi Ti can, with a sleeve, 2 end caps, a strap covering the end caps, and some stuff inside, then drill out the rivets and pull it apart. Everything should slide out. Might be some sticky stuff holding the glass fiber, use yer knife. put the sleeve over something to use as a dolly and tap away, gently. Any imperfections in the dolly or hammer surface will show on the metal. get some new alm pop rivets and pop back together. 3m scratch pad and sand paper to get some finish back. polish if needed. It ain't perfect but it worked for me. Most of the damage was covered by the hanger strap. It only took a few hours and a year later I fell over again so I get to fix it again! (that's why alm rivets) A bit more difficult this time, as you can see on the end cap... 1 2
po18guy Posted January 25, 2020 Posted January 25, 2020 If you experiment a little, you can find a grit of sandpaper which will reproduce the factory "grain" in the alloy. Then, a judicious amount of "shoe shining" motion can render the repaired section even less visible. 1
footgoose Posted January 25, 2020 Posted January 25, 2020 Agreed. I have spent easily four times the amount of time experimenting with the finish as I did repairing. The hammering has changed the composition and "color" of the metal, and though I can make it more consistent with sanding, it's also more shit looking. Shoe shining it with metal sanding belt brings it back to as you see in the photo. Fortunately the damage is under the hanger strap and it doesn't show nearly as bad on the bike as in the photo. I have another idea to try yet, so I'm not giving up.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now