LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Posted June 10, 2018 I might've killed the whole electrical system now. I was riding, bike was running fine. I needed gas but the gas level light was barely glowing. I get gas and take off and the oil pressure light stays on. Luckily, a good sumaritan with a trailer is right behind me and tows me home. The bike made no clanking sounds. I started it briefly, the oil light stayed on but no bad noises. Checked the dipstick, and OK. So I check the connectors on the oil pressure sensor and play with the fuses and relays. I check the two 5 amp fuses for the dash and signals. They are the kind that aren't transparent so I swap them around and see that moving it kills the blinkers. Thinking it was the fuse, I return the blinker fuse and only have a spare 30 that I plug into the other 5 amp socket. I must've killed the whole thing, nothing. No electrical power whatsoever. The battery is still strong enough to run the mini air compressor, so I don't think it's the battery. Perhaps I killed the computer, ignition switch, or master ground? I really didn't think that a big fuse on the dash lights would ruin anything but I guess it did. And of course, I need to know find the original problem with oil pressure sensor.
LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Author Posted June 10, 2018 UPDATE: Checked the fuses and both 5amp for dash and signals were blown as well as 10 amp for fuel pump. When I replaced the 10 amp got my power back. Bike started, oil light stayed on. 5 amp fuse for dash lights is blown. All other fuses OK. Why did the dead 10 amp fuse for the fuel pump kill everything? What is the deal oil pressure light and the 5 amp dash fuse? BTW- pardon me and thanks for the suggestions.
docc Posted June 10, 2018 Posted June 10, 2018 I would wager something is shorted. Maybe the tail light bulb or 4 watt "dipped" light in the headlamp. Sometimes, a broken filament will fall and make a short. When you say "dash lights" you do mean the instrument illumination, not the warning lights?
LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Author Posted June 10, 2018 yes Docc, the instrument panel lights, the other 5 amp fuse is the flasher I believe. The oil pressure light is on and instrument panel 5 amp fuse blows. (I am not inclined to believe that I have an oil pressure issues but am not going to risk it). I still don't understand why the 10 amp fuse on the fuel pump kills all electrical power. .... I just checked the bike. All the dash lights work when activated by switch except for the oil light that stays on regardless. It's odd to me that the dash all lights work when the fuse is out, backwards from my expectation. But you are right about the tail light. It's out but the brake light still works. Next job is to replace tail light.
LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Author Posted June 10, 2018 2nd Update. I replaced the tail light. It was likely burned out due to the 30 amp test fuse. But the tail light won't work because I keep blowing the 5 amp dash light fuse. Brake light still works. Odd to me that the dash lights work, the oil light defaults on and tail light won't work. And I am still wondering why the 10 amp fuse for fuel pump kills all electrical power. All other lights and electricals appear to work correctly, lights, brights, signals, brake light, fuel pump and starter. 5 amp dash light fuse blown, oil light stays on and tail light won't come on.
LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Author Posted June 10, 2018 Perhaps that's correct answer Foto, would a failed sensor also blow the fuse?
fotoguzzi Posted June 10, 2018 Posted June 10, 2018 doubt it, did the area get wet? all the other odd stuff happening is strange.. make sure grounds are clean and tight at battery and frame, it's better to ground battery to engine block if it's to frame now. I don't have any reasoning but what condition is the ignition switch in?
docc Posted June 10, 2018 Posted June 10, 2018 Good advice on securing grounds (especially the main ground to the back right of the gearbox behind the seat latch release!!) and servicing the ignition switch. There is this: the 5 amp Fuse #6 feeds the tail lamp, tag lamp, 4w "dipped" lamp in the headlamp bucket, and instrument illumination. This is stand alone circuit and goes through no relay. The oil warning light uses Fuse #5 with the headlights, horn, start, charge and the warning lamps (not the turn signal indicator) through both Relay#1/NC and Relay#2/NO (on our early Sports). The Fuse#6 circuit can be activated in the "Park" position of the Ignition Switch. What happens when you do just that with a 5 amp fuse in Position #6?
LowRyter Posted June 10, 2018 Author Posted June 10, 2018 Docc, Then I have plenty of problems. If the oil light is on the 15 amp Fuse #5, then it's a seperate problem from Fuse #6 that's blown (!) . I have two problems, the oil sensor and the #6 fuse circuit? ohh boy. That would explain why all those lights work and tail light doesn't. And maybe I don't have oil pressure and problem with #6 fuse circuit? BTW- I have a new voltage regulator and the Chinese LED headlight.
fotoguzzi Posted June 11, 2018 Posted June 11, 2018 did you run a ground wire from the regulator to frame/engine? Normally the VR gets ground through captured nuts and don't have a solid ground that way.
fotoguzzi Posted June 11, 2018 Posted June 11, 2018 ditch the headlight from china and see if it still blows fuses?
docc Posted June 11, 2018 Posted June 11, 2018 ditch the headlight from china and see if it still blows fuses? The headlight is on Fuse#5, not Fuse#6 with the Tail Light.
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