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Posted

I say "[battery]" because I could not keep stacking terminals on the battery itself, and built connector blocks for both the positive and negative battery terminals.  Instead of fusing the headlight positive, I'm using an auto-reset 10 amp ATC circuit breaker.

IMG_4510.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

The original Ducati Energia is a series regulator, it opens the circuit instead. IMHO these are a good regulator let down by the flaky Voltage reference from the headlight circuit.

I think I misread this and assumed the Ducati Energia was the stock regulator for the V11 Sport. It is not, correct?

Posted

 

I wired my headlight circuit seperately via a pair of mini relays so now the regulator reference voltage stays constant and the handlebar switches dont carry the headlight current.

 

 

 

Ciao

 

 

Is there a diagram of where best to put the relay? I'm searching now through the archives and have found some. Do you know which one you used?

 

Like docc I mounted my mini relays in the headlight shell.

 

Ciao

Posted

Did you pull a dedicated power wire all the way to the headlight?

Posted

The Voltage reference is permanently connected to the battery making it more reliable, it only draws about 0.3 milliamps but it will flatten the battery over time.

 

Yep, it takes about 3-4 weeks for my newly installed ESR515 to drain the battery.  DAMHIK.

Posted

 

The Voltage reference is permanently connected to the battery making it more reliable, it only draws about 0.3 milliamps but it will flatten the battery over time.

 

Yep, it takes about 3-4 weeks for my newly installed ESR515 to drain the battery.  DAMHIK.

 

 

But if you put a relay in that circuit it won't, right?

Posted

On the ESR515, there isn't a separate wire for sensing the voltage, so no where to run a relay switched reference.  :bbblll:

 

Couldn't you put a relay in the power line going from the regulator to the battery?

Posted

Kinda defeats the purpose of having that nice hard wire connection between the regulator and battery.  But yes you could.

  • Like 1
Posted

Kinda defeats the purpose of having that nice hard wire connection between the regulator and battery. But yes you could.

The drop from the relay and the regulator pushes juice to the battery might be manageable enough. Kiwi Roy should be along at some point to correct me.

Posted

0dd7844b32d35157b35ee231729f68d0.jpg

 

Which of these wires is the voltage reference one?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Hm . . . tough question. The black voltage reference is at another connector on the left side of the frame . . .

 IMG_6125.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Charging & rectifier

03 Rosso Corsa.

My fault was visible and smellable.

Stator fine, usually 2 bullet connectors not to bad, other connector, see pictures .

Just want the best rectifier available?

Shindengen 847? Or ?

And a tiny Christmas wish. Someone decided to make a simple upgraded wiring for the V11 ( K.R. )

IPA TIME

Cheers tom d98c20ebaac2f168e93f8f062e841129.jpgecef94f20c15252fb641140bd439f183.jpg665bb498ed569b77f29e4694447405c6.jpgb1d3accdd0e3690fac8c5deac44d79d6.jpgdcace0fb7a0514fb211c6741bdc574da.jpg1ecad4d1c1cb9b7602e1d818c19c9b50.jpg0514c8f5e93c36054b8ff6afd4bedd99.jpg

 

Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

The first thing you have to worry about is fake regulators. So just be careful on eBay.

 

If you're in Norway I guess you're use to having a hard time getting parts?

 

I'm currently leaning towards a Electosport ESR550 which is the MOSFET style although you'd have to put new connectors in (looking at the pictures I think you're already in line for that) and you'll lose your charging light on the dash (unless you hack something) or put a voltmeter on the bike.

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