LowRyter Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 I think my bike had the issue a few years ago IIRC. I was riding it and parked it. Bike wouldn't start. Totally dead. Needed a regulator. I still play with the relays.
docc Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 2 minutes ago, LowRyter said: I think my bike had the issue a few years ago IIRC. I was riding it and parked it. Bike wouldn't start. Totally dead. Needed a regulator. I still play with the relays. Our V11 Sport/LeMans relays, and the vulnerable "relay bases", have derived solutions: Those who carry on with sub-standard relays or keep playing "relay roulette" just didn't get the memos . . . 3 1
guzziart Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 15 hours ago, droydx said: Funny the things you find when you go looking.... Time for a new regulator for my V11! Andy Yeah, been there done that. Those pin connectors in the background were blued/cooked on mine. If you've checked stator output and output is good and you are able to get new stator terminals & plug that'll save you a couple dollars. My stator/regulator wiring had got hot enough to melt the insulation into the wire strands of the stator so, I replaced the stator too. 1
LowRyter Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 13 hours ago, docc said: Our V11 Sport/LeMans relays, and the vulnerable "relay bases", have derived solutions: Those who carry on with sub-standard relays or keep playing "relay roulette" just didn't get the memos . . . I think I posted that I had a failed Omron a few weeks ago. Replaced it with one my dozen take-offs (I have two bikes). Actually haven't played relay roulette since then. I also use Deox spray and CRC contact cleaner. 2
LaGrasta Posted October 11, 2023 Posted October 11, 2023 18 hours ago, MartyNZ said: Woah, before you buy a new regulator, how about cutting out the bad connector, and crimping the wires. A bad connector doesn't mean you have a bad regulator This happened on my 2010 MG V7, replaced the connector, kept the old regulator, been good ever since. 3
droydx Posted October 12, 2023 Posted October 12, 2023 Mission accomplished! The connector between the output wires to the spade connectors was the culprit on my bike. No need to replace the regulator. I redid the spade connectors on the pigtail connector, hit up everything with Caig brand cleaners, then Vaseline and did some voltage checks. Standing Odyssey battery voltage was at 13.1, then on start up, when run up to about 2500 showed a charge of high 13's to max 14.1. I ended up getting one of the Battery Tender brand plug in voltmeters, and checked it against my hand held, so it looks like a nice "peace of mind" item to get some easy readings with. Thanks everyone with the great input, suggestions and help! 3
Guzzimax Posted October 12, 2023 Posted October 12, 2023 I checked the charging voltage by putting a meter on the battery terminals whilst running the engine at a very fast idle 13.83 volts doesn’t seem excessive as a charge voltage I’ll go around the various grounds and connections to make sure the contacts are clean I suppose there could be spikes when the engine is running at typical road speed of 3000 - 5000 rpm what do you think?
docc Posted October 12, 2023 Posted October 12, 2023 28 minutes ago, Guzzimax said: I checked the charging voltage by putting a meter on the battery terminals whilst running the engine at a very fast idle 13.83 volts doesn’t seem excessive as a charge voltage I’ll go around the various grounds and connections to make sure the contacts are clean I suppose there could be spikes when the engine is running at typical road speed of 3000 - 5000 rpm what do you think? As your rpm rises, is there a point in the 2000-2500 rpm range that the voltage switches to 14.1-14.2? I could see no reason for "spikes" unless there are faults . . .
Guzzimax Posted October 12, 2023 Posted October 12, 2023 I’ll recheck tomorrow, I’ve run it up to 2000 rpm and the voltage doesn’t exceed 13.9 1
docc Posted October 12, 2023 Posted October 12, 2023 51 minutes ago, Guzzimax said: I’ll recheck tomorrow, I’ve run it up to 2000 rpm and the voltage doesn’t exceed 13.9 Apparently, the regulator is preset at 13.8vDC, so that may be just fine and correct. Altering the headlight wiring (bypassing Relay #2 with a dedicated circuit), or running an LED headlamp affects the reference voltage and may set the higher (>14v) charging voltage. 1
audiomick Posted October 13, 2023 Posted October 13, 2023 It's all been said, but here are my two cents anyway: On 10/10/2023 at 11:16 PM, droydx said: Time for a new regulator for my V11! On 10/11/2023 at 1:48 AM, MartyNZ said: Woah, before you buy a new regulator, how about cutting out the bad connector, and crimping the wires. A bad connector doesn't mean you have a bad regulator I'm definitely with Marty there. Poor connections have a higher resistance (loose, oxidised, whatever...), and that generates heat. When it gets bad enough, the connectors end up looking like the ones in @droydx's photo. In most cases, the problem is exactly that: the connector has just gone bad. Repair it (and maintain it in the future), and the problem is solved. 2 hours ago, Guzzimax said: I suppose there could be spikes (in the charging voltage) when the engine is running at typical road speed of 3000 - 5000 rpm No. 2 hours ago, docc said: I could see no reason for "spikes" unless there are faults . . . Yes. If there are spikes, the regulator has a problem, at least as far as I know. 2 1
docc Posted October 13, 2023 Posted October 13, 2023 8 minutes ago, audiomick said: Yes. If there are spike, the regulator has a problem, at least as far as I know. Or bad voltage spikes from this all-too-common V11 Achilles' Heel fault as the stator wires degrade, undetected . . . 2 1
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