Modifying stock cartridge on '99 V11 Sport?

[docc]

Welldone, Drewteague! Thanks for posting the gallery!

 

So, block both holes, not just one? How about a LocTite product on the set screws (instead of welding) so one (or both, even) could be removed later, if necessary?

 

Also, worth noting on fork oil "weight" that SAE is not very accurate. One manufacturer's 5wt could be another's 10wt.  The BelRay 5wt I like is 19.50 cSt (centiStokes). Peter Verdone has shared some good data on this more accurate viscosity measure:

 

http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

 

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

 

[Hey, I edited posts #12 and 14 to clarify the year of manufacture 10th character in the VIN (W=1999, Y=2000). I don't recall any 1999 V11 in The States.  While this is an aside to the thread topic, this is also how we learn and share. ]

[LowRyter]

I loaded my Greenie in the trailer to go to the Okla Rally.

 

The front must be set real soft.  That bike is tied down solid.

[swooshdave]

I loaded my Greenie in the trailer to go to the Okla Rally.

 

The front must be set real soft.  That bike is tied down solid.

 

You might not want it locked down solid. What is going to take the bumps?

[GuzziMoto]

When trailering I always want it locked down as tight as possible. The trailers suspension is what "takes the bumps".

There are options now that allow you to secure the bike without compressing the suspension, some lock it down by the wheels and some simply act as a solid member that goes in the suspension to keep it from compressing its normal amount.

In my racing days I drove all over the country with racebikes. I got really good at securing the bikes. I even had an issue that bent a wheel on the trailer, the bikes didn't budge.

[nobleswood]

Here is an allied thread currently evolving on GrisoGhetto;

 

https://www.grisoghetto.com/t4190-reworking-forks

 

Worth a look

[Lucky Phil]

When trailering I always want it locked down as tight as possible. The trailers suspension is what "takes the bumps".

There are options now that allow you to secure the bike without compressing the suspension, some lock it down by the wheels and some simply act as a solid member that goes in the suspension to keep it from compressing its normal amount.

In my racing days I drove all over the country with racebikes. I got really good at securing the bikes. I even had an issue that bent a wheel on the trailer, the bikes didn't budge.

In the many trailers I've owned I've never seen one with suspension worth a damn. Live axle on short stiff leaf springs that are virtually solid. My track bikes are strapped down these days with a rear wheel strap and the front is held in a wheel chock. Roll the bike onto the trailer and into the wheel chock which holds it securely while you fit the rear wheel strap with the straps angled forward to pull the bike into the chock and the bike rides along on its suspension on the trailer. Pulling bikes down hard on their suspensions has long been given up on by those that care about the bikes suspension.

 

Ciao

[Chuck]

 

Pulling bikes down hard on their suspensions has long been given up on by those that care about the bikes suspension.

I read not to do that back in the Pleistocene.. so I never have. So far, so good.

[Lucky Phil]

Welldone, Drewteague! Thanks for posting the gallery!

 

So, block both holes, not just one? How about a LocTite product on the set screws (instead of welding) so one (or both, even) could be removed later, if necessary?

 

Also, worth noting on fork oil "weight" that SAE is not very accurate. One manufacturer's 5wt could be another's 10wt.  The BelRay 5wt I like is 19.50 cSt (centiStokes). Peter Verdone has shared some good data on this more accurate viscosity measure:

 

http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html

 

http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

 

[Hey, I edited posts #12 and 14 to clarify the year of manufacture 10th character in the VIN (W=1999, Y=2000). I don't recall any 1999 V11 in The States.  While this is an aside to the thread topic, this is also how we learn and share. ]

This is true docc so what I do when I pull any suspension component down is I measure the viscosity of what came out for comparative purposes. All you need is a syringe body and a watch to time the measured amount of oil into a container. The actual numbers dont mean anything but the comparison does. So if your happy with the damping as it is you measure the original oil and compare it to the fresh stuff you're putting in.

Prevents the frustration of replacing your original brand of 5W with a different brand of 5W only to find the new stuff is more like 7.5W and the damping isnt to your liking anymore.

 

Ciao