docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 My wear patterns and the prior images support that the thrust washer is (> should be YMMV! As guzzimeister says, that washer is in there, so don't let it slip away! [EDIT: Note that there as second thrust washer below the "Spindle/pinion drive" inside the gearbox NOT PICTURED HERE.] Dear me, and I thought the V11 sidestand was a Rube Goldberg apparatus! 1
JBBenson Posted October 14, 2018 Author Posted October 14, 2018 Here's what I found. I used the old angle-drive stud (from the housing that was leaking) and put it into the new angle drive and reassembled. I spun the back wheel and it looks all buttoned up. The angle seems to turn smoothly with the older stud in place. Not frozen. Thinking about it, when I inserted the then-new stud (which broke later), it didn't seem to fit very well into the angle housing. I don't know why it snapped off, but if it happens again then the new angle drive is to blame, not the new, ill-fitting stud. I'll have my Speedhuts by then, hehe.... 1
docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 So, it is the "connector shaft"/ "stud" that failed. It is a separate piece supplied with the replacement angle drive? Simple enough to use the factory connector shaft/stud with the MGCycle replacement angle drive.
JBBenson Posted October 14, 2018 Author Posted October 14, 2018 So, it is the "connector shaft"/ "stud" that failed. It is a separate piece supplied with the replacement angle drive? Simple enough to use the factory connector shaft/stud with the MGCycle replacement angle drive. Yes, the "connector shaft" slides into the angle housing as a separate piece. Like I said, the new "connector shaft" seemed to have a gritty fit, it didn't feel quite right. The older shaft slipped right in "home" and turned smoothly. So, maybe the issue is the fit of the new parts to each other, or poor quality metal for the new, non OEM shaft. Maybe a bit of slop in this application is preferable to a super tight fit....? In any case, I recommend using the OEM "connector shaft" with any new angle drive from MG Cycle. Take your time to make sure they are all "home" in their respective sockets, the "connector shaft" (male) into the female spindle drive receiver, and the bottom of the speedo cable (male) and the female receiver at the top of the angle drive. 1
JBBenson Posted October 14, 2018 Author Posted October 14, 2018 Docc, how did you get the circled assembly out? That cap area was leaking on mine, thats why I replaced the entire angle drive (initiating this entire fiasco), I figured it was a sealed thing.....no?
docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 Docc, how did you get the circled assembly out? That cap area was leaking on mine, thats why I replaced the entire angle drive (initiating this entire fiasco), I figured it was a sealed thing.....no? Oh, easy: that metal disc (along with the nylon worm gear and it's shaft) spits out onto the road spontaneously without permission. I learned to epoxy (JB Weld) that metal disc into the angle drive. To remove it, the tiny, weak stakings in the plastic housing can be relieved with a Dremel bur, or the epoxy relieved the same way. Always epoxy that metal disc into the angle drive, folks!
docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 JBBenson, I noticed the RedLine ShockProof Heavyweight in your images. I have found that product does not ventilate well in the V11 gearbox or reardrive. I switched to RLSP "Lightweight." The Heavy is too easy to overfill, IMO. Also check your gearbox vent to be certain it is clear and functional. I'm thninking the gearoil should not be forcing itself into the speedometer drive . . . [The vent center image, not the red circled Main Electrical Ground (that's important, too!)]:
JBBenson Posted October 14, 2018 Author Posted October 14, 2018 Yes, I have checked that vent, it's clear. I have also removed a bit of RLSP "Heavy" from the transmission. I will check the vent on the final drive too. So, the conventional wisdom is now the Blue Yoghurt? OK, I'll put that in next time. I am pretty sure the spiral grooves on the spindle are designed to lift lubricant up into the housing. That's what they look like to me. Like a "spiral groove bearing". I might be wrong. But yes, it probably shouldn't get up into the cable housing. Not sure why it got up that high. The oil has been steady in the middle of the sight glass. I don't think its overfilled.
docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 I don't know about "conventional wisdom," more just some of my hard knocks I'm trying to pass along. So much "RLSP/Heavy" clings to to inside, it is hard to judge "full" versus "overfilled." I have been guilty of overfilling. Seems the "connector shaft" on the MGCycle replacement part is less desirable than the OEM shaft. And that metal disc on the lower angle drive should always be epoxied into place.
BLIGHT Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 Here's what I found. I used the old angle-drive stud (from the housing that was leaking) and put it into the new angle drive and reassembled. I spun the back wheel and it looks all buttoned up. The angle seems to turn smoothly with the older stud in place. Not frozen. Thinking about it, when I inserted the then-new stud (which broke later), it didn't seem to fit very well into the angle housing. I don't know why it snapped off, but if it happens again then the new angle drive is to blame, not the new, ill-fitting stud. I'll have my Speedhuts by then, hehe.... Thank God! The whole mechanical Guzzi system is designed to fail, from one end to the other! The electronic GPS Speedhut gauges are wonderful, and BTW, look especially cool at night! It's all digital, no whirring gears, cables or plastic speedo/odo gears to shear (in my case) and cost you $$ for eternity. There is a time to fix it once and for all, and you made the right decision with the SpeedHuts! BLIGHT 1
czakky Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 What effort Docc put into what is a nill issue for him with new GPS speedo. Thanks for all that Docc! 1
docc Posted October 14, 2018 Posted October 14, 2018 What effort Docc put into what is a nill issue for him with new GPS speedo. Thanks for all that Docc! All cool. Lots of others are running these fussy angle drives. I apologize for loosing track of the thrust washer in the heat of the moment. Thanks, again, to guzzimeister! I can't recall if anyone has tried using the later, black-face ITI direct cable on the white-face Veglia? Seems there were some issues with that. Realize there is an equal and opposite angle drive on the back of the white-face Veglia speedometer. Also, those late cables have a sharp bend to miss the throttle linkage (same purpose for the angle drive), and they tend to break cables there.
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 26, 2018 Posted October 26, 2018 I used the gearbox drive to supply pulses to a pulse input Speedhut Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
footgoose Posted October 26, 2018 Posted October 26, 2018 I used the gearbox drive to supply pulses to a pulse input Speedhut Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk have you documented this project Roy, here or elsewhere?
docc Posted October 26, 2018 Posted October 26, 2018 I used the gearbox drive to supply pulses to a pulse input Speedhut Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk have you documented this project Roy, here or elsewhere? Kiwi_Roy's thread, Installing Speedhut Gauges in "How to . . ." The first post contains Kiwi_Roy's typical level of expertise, excellent detail, and documentation. The rest of that thread (15 pages!) documents several other approaches to Speedhut installation. Some of the images have been lost, but the thread is phenomenal. 1
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