Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Now that she sat for a couple weeks, after the 104 mile New Year's Day ride, there is a little puddle of that funky yellow goop on the lift. :bbblll:

 

I really don't get why it is so sporadic and unpredictable.  I do get that I need to change the return line. I have a replacement line, but think I should also renew the "reduction" fitting to the sump.  "Once and done," as me bud Zapp is apt to say . . . :luigi:

 

This begs the question about just how filled up my spine frame is with nasty, old oil-like fluid from 110,000 miles of crankcase ventilation; some of that with non-synth Castrol, among other debatable oil selections.

 

Can the spine crankcase ventilation reservoir be "purged?"  Does it matter? :huh2:

Posted

It can be done .......It will be a MammyTamper to do . 

I've heard the spine reservoir is hard to purge, especially if there has been engine damage.  no engine damage here, just pushing twenty years of accumulation.

 

How to "MammyTamper" the SpineFrame clean-out? :luigi:

Posted

I am extremely interested in the crankcase breather reservoir clean out.

I am concerned about if any debris made it into the frame that is part of the breather system from when my engine self destructed.
I seem to recall a post from someone discussing about how debris that was possibly from the breather chamber ruined a second engine.
It looks like the return oil hose that connects to the spine about half way down underneath may be the lowest point of the chamber. The frame just a little bit further down from that hose connection looks to have a plate welded inside the frame to keep oil from running all the way down and filling up the frame. Just the top one foot of the spine is the breather box.
 
I really am not sure how to go about flushing the frame. Is it just an empty chamber or is something inside it? I think I may be able to pour some gasoline in there from the fitting on the top of the frame.
I will plug the 3/4" main crankcase breather hose fitting that under the top part of the main frame tube and the fitting on the bottom left that goes to the back of the oil pan and let the gas soak and slosh around for a while and drain from the bottom hole and see what comes out.
I have considered plugging the fitting on the back of the oil pan and just running the hose from the lower frame fitting to a catch can. That way I don't need to worry about any debris going back to the pan.
Any Ideas?
 
  • Like 1
Posted

Step one: remove frame

Step two: fill with diesel fuel, shake, then drain

Step three: reinstall frame

 

:grin:  :luigi:

 

 

Seriously, you probably could flush it in place with some heavy duty degreaser. Maybe send some flexible wire brushes in there... followed by a small hose connected to a wet-dry-vac. Don't use the wet-dry-vac if you flush it with gasoline.  :!:

  • Like 1
Posted

Step one: remove frame

Step two: fill with diesel fuel, shake, then drain

Step three: reinstall frame

 

:grin:  :luigi:

 

If I had it stripped down to the frame, that is exactly what I would do.

 

I tried flushing my oil cooler probably a couple of dozen times or more with gas, air and water under pressure but debris kept coming out.

I would never feel confident I got it all out.

I gave up and got another oil cooler.

  • Like 1
Posted

Since we are now discussing the frame as part of the breather system, I will add this. My Daytona frame was poorly welded and the area that is used for the breather system leaks. I tried a variety of things to resolve it. It would drip every now and then from the underside of the round tube at the end of the square frame section. It seems that where the square frame section is welded to the round tube at the swing arm side of the frame was not welded properly and the weld leaks.

I eventually got it to stop leaking by using gas tank sealer epoxy on the inside of the frame section that acts as the breather catch tank.

That stopped the slow leak / drip.

  • Like 1
Posted

Love is blind, they say. :oldgit: Some times the things we put up with would try the patience of Job.

 

It's worth it. :race:

Posted

Love is blind, they say. :oldgit: Some times the things we put up with would try the patience of Job.

 

It's worth it. :race:

Absolutely. It is my favorite motorcycle ever. It amazed me the first time I rode it. It is a keeper. Perhaps one day I will actually get all the little issues it has resolved.

Until then, I will enjoy it as is.

Posted

The frame vent area, with 2 holes threaded and a nipple to plug, it looks like something you could flush out fairly (though a pita) easily ( with funnels hoses and buckets). Possibly even air pressure test. I believe I'd get at least 2 gl of diesel fuel and some cone paint filters (large coffee filters might work) to catch the bits ... so I could use the same fuel several times And see what comes out. At first splash, I'd wait to see if that blocking plate is going to leak. ... put a pan under it, and flush it anyway. It's an understandable concern you have for protecting the new motor.

Posted

In a case like antmanbee's where there is likely metallic particulate in the crankcase vent system, what about installing an inline filter (like a fuel filter) in the return line for extra assurance?

Posted

footgoose,

Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking along the same lines. I definitely want to flush it at least a few times and inspect what comes out so I can be as sure as possible it is clear of debris. 

I was only going to use gas as it evaporates better and the smell goes away faster. Diesel stinks for a long time.

What if I decide to park in in my living room. After all it is a work of art.

 

docc, 

I also thought about a filter in the return line but oil does not flow too easily through a filter. That was why I was thinking of a catch can so I could inspect the oil collected and not return it to the crankcase.

I have really no idea how much oil goes through the crank case vent system.

Posted

 

Absolutely. It is my favorite motorcycle ever.

Me, too..

Posted

Diesel stinks for a long time.

 

 

Diesel smells good... even better than used gear oil.

Posted

 

Diesel stinks for a long time.

 

 

Diesel smells good... even better than used gear oil.

 

Damning with faint praise there.. Scud. :grin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...