Joe caruso timing gear install

[GuzziMoto]

On 4/2/2022 at 5:13 PM, Lucky Phil said:

As weegie mentioned an extra deep 32mm impact socket. The torque figures are in the Shop manual. Crank Nut 110-120nm, alternator nut 80nm, cam gear 150nm. If you look in my "how to" for this task you will get some hints on holding tools etc.

https://www.abc.se/~rasmus/1100Sport-torque.html

Ciao

 

On 4/2/2022 at 4:14 PM, Weegie said:

When installing on my HiCam I used a 32mm extra deep 6 point impact socket. I didn't use the rattle gun on the nut but I preferred the 6 point impact as it would give the best fit as I knew it'd be on pretty tight

They aren't exactly cheap but can be found at less than an arm and a leg.

If you weren't on the wrong side of the pond to me I'd have popped mine in the post to you

Check E-Bay (or wherever) for Extra Deep 32mm socket, then measure up to be sure, but these sockets are available and do the job

Perhaps Phil has another solution

John

 

Thank you both. I see extra deep sockets on the internet, but unable to source locally. So it looks like I will have to buy off the internet and wait for it.

Thanks again.

[Lucky Phil]

6 minutes ago, GuzziMoto said:

 

 

 

Thank you both. I see extra deep sockets on the internet, but unable to source locally. So it looks like I will have to buy off the internet and wait for it.

Thanks again.

Yea I had to buy it specially on the "net"

Ciao

[docc]

Moved to "How to . . ." for better archiving.

[GuzziMoto]

Well, I tightened down the crank nut, cam nut, and oil pump nut. I used orange loctite on the crank nut and cam nut, and tightened them down to torque, or slightly over. I am a little heavy sometimes on torque.

I used red loctite on the oil pump nut, and tightened it down to 16 ft/lbs (22 nm). That seems barely tight after the other two.

Sometimes I get overly paranoid about things coming loose inside an engine, way back when I was young I wrecked a motor by not properly tightening the bolts that hold the cam to the cam sprocket. On the test ride I wondered what that ticking was. It stopped ticking before I made it back. 

I have spun the motor over by hand a few times and nothing seemed to hit anything else. So that is good.

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

Well, I tightened down the crank nut, cam nut, and oil pump nut. I used orange loctite on the crank nut and cam nut, and tightened them down to torque, or slightly over. I am a little heavy sometimes on torque.

I used red loctite on the oil pump nut, and tightened it down to 16 ft/lbs (22 nm). That seems barely tight after the other two.

Sometimes I get overly paranoid about things coming loose inside an engine, way back when I was young I wrecked a motor by not properly tightening the bolts that hold the cam to the cam sprocket. On the test ride I wondered what that ticking was. It stopped ticking before I made it back. 

I have spun the motor over by hand a few times and nothing seemed to hit anything else. So that is good.

Not a great idea I'm afraid.

Ciao

[VeeEleven]

15 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

Well, I tightened down the crank nut, cam nut, and oil pump nut. I used orange loctite on the crank nut and cam nut, and tightened them down to torque, or slightly over. I am a little heavy sometimes on torque.

I used red loctite on the oil pump nut, and tightened it down to 16 ft/lbs (22 nm). That seems barely tight after the other two.

Sometimes I get overly paranoid about things coming loose inside an engine, way back when I was young I wrecked a motor by not properly tightening the bolts that hold the cam to the cam sprocket. On the test ride I wondered what that ticking was. It stopped ticking before I made it back. 

I have spun the motor over by hand a few times and nothing seemed to hit anything else. So that is good.

I guess that's what one of the PO did on mine. I could probably lift the bike using my long socket wrench on the crank nut.
It feels like it welded in place.
I'm going to try a rattle gun before I resort to splitting it.
Unless of course it's a left-hand thread? Which is isn't, right? (Tried that way too, to no avail...)

[fotoguzzi]

It's a normal right hand thread.

I got my 32mm deep socket from Grainger

[GuzziMoto]

Here's a stupid question. Why does the timing rotor have two locator holes in it? It only needs one hole for the dowl, the other hole would allow the timing rotor to be one rotation of the crank out. I assume that would be bad.

[VeeEleven]

On 4/10/2022 at 1:46 PM, VeeEleven said:

I guess that's what one of the PO did on mine. I could probably lift the bike using my long socket wrench on the crank nut.
It feels like it welded in place.
I'm going to try a rattle gun before I resort to splitting it.
Unless of course it's a left-hand thread? Which is isn't, right? (Tried that way too, to no avail...)

Gears and flange are in place. A high-end rattler gun finally got the best of the crank shaft nut.

Damn, that was a nice fit.

I can only dimly picture all the work that must have gone into the design and manufacture of these beauties.

Hoping to have it road tested this weekend.

No sludge found at the bottom of the case

[VeeEleven]

On 4/15/2022 at 4:55 PM, VeeEleven said:

Gears and flange are in place. A high-end rattler gun finally got the best of the crank shaft nut.

Damn, that was a nice fit.

I can only dimly picture all the work that must have gone into the design and manufacture of these beauties.

Hoping to have it road tested this weekend.

No sludge found at the bottom of the case

First 30 odd km driven. No problems so far. The sound alone is probably adding 12HP and 20NM

Like others have, I noted a rise in idle of about 200rpm.
Still early days, but so far I've had none of the ~3000rpm hick-ups at low load.
My chain tensioner showed visible grooves after 65000Km so there might have been an issue with (whatstheword?) chain lash? affecting timing.

[VeeEleven]

On 4/12/2022 at 3:18 PM, GuzziMoto said:

Here's a stupid question. Why does the timing rotor have two locator holes in it? It only needs one hole for the dowl, the other hole would allow the timing rotor to be one rotation of the crank out. I assume that would be bad.

It's Italian, that's why.
I ran into that mystery myself when I thoughtlessly took it out without noting how it was installed.
The workshop manual doesn't coherently describe how it's fitted, but reading a bit back and forth gives that the groove (where the missing teeth are) in the timing rotor should be positioned about 180 degrees away from the pickup when left cylinder is at TDC with both valves closed.

[docc]

Is this the correct 32mm extra deep socket for the job?

https://www.grainger.com/product/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Socket-1-2-in-Drive-Size-20K046

[fotoguzzi]

your pic makes it look too small, maybe just a trick of photography?
Mine looks like this

I put the 22mm there for size comparison.

 

[Lucky Phil]

36 minutes ago, docc said:

Is this the correct 32mm extra deep socket for the job?

https://www.grainger.com/product/SK-PROFESSIONAL-TOOLS-Socket-1-2-in-Drive-Size-20K046

Maybe docc but I measured a spare crank and it may be a close thing. From memory I don't think a std deep is long enough. I bought one of these, an extra deep.

https://www.australianonlinecarparts.com.au/32mm-x-1-2-dr.-extra-deep.-6pt.impact-skt-127mm-lo

 

It's internal depth is 105mm and overall length 125mm

 

Edit... I dont think thats long enough docc at about 93mm overall length.

 

Ciao

[Pressureangle]

My deep 32mm;

https://ibb.co/XLZZwwq