Replacing my Blown V11 Engine - Have a few questions

[gstallons]

If you do anything , wire brush the bolt threads , clean with brake cleaner , dry and apply a small amount of weatherstrip ( none on the first few threads ) adhesive to the threads , allow to dry and install . A strip about 10mm wide around the threads . This will act as an adhesive. I apply a dri-film graphite spray to clean /dry clutch splines to prevent rust and allow smooth operation . The dry graphite does not ge on the clutch or flywheel surfaces

[antmanbee]

If you do anything , wire brush the bolt threads , clean with brake cleaner , dry and apply a small amount of weatherstrip ( none on the first few threads ) adhesive to the threads , allow to dry and install . A strip about 10mm wide around the threads . This will act as an adhesive. I apply a dri-film graphite spray to clean /dry clutch splines to prevent rust and allow smooth operation . The dry graphite does not ge on the clutch or flywheel surfaces

 

Are you referring to both the flywheel bolts and the clutch plate bolts? And you apply the weatherstrip to the bolt threads?

What weatherstrip do you use. Why not use one of the varieties of locktite instead if you are using it as an adhesive?

Do you put a small dab of grease on the end of the clutch rod that goes into the clutch assembly or is this left dry?

[gstallons]

You will see once you use the weatherstrip adhesive . 3M is the brand . And the bolt threads is where it goes . You can use a dab of hi-temp grease on the pushrod tip .

[docc]

I edited my post regarding using Loctite on the flywheel bolts to the crank. The Workshop Manual specifies "medium strength Loctite."

[antmanbee]

Do I need hylomar? For the cleaned bottom 2 bearing flange holes and bolts should I use loctite blue or hylomar or the teflon thread sealant? I thought the loctite medium blue was also a thread sealant.

What about on the breather tube gasket? I will use a new gasket, but do I need to coat both sides of it with the hylomar or some other sealant or just use the plain gasket. 

It is not leaking now, but I will be doing this based on the recommendation to replace the gasket and the fact that I need to remove the breather tube to JBweld the cam plug (which also is not leaking).

Neither the bearing flange bolts or the breather tube are under pressure so maybe I am over thinking this. The cam plug is likely receiving oil pressure and could leak significantly if not sealing properly.  

[Chuck]

Aviation Permatex is non hardening, and good for that application. About any auto parts place will have it.

[docc]

With good, truly expert advice, I stopped before smearing the vent gasket with anything. After all, they are not actually "paper."

 

And what (another true expert) Josh said: "Get Clinical" . . .

(Be sanitary, "sponge count = 7") . . .

[antmanbee]

Interestingly the 2 bottom bolt holes for the rear main bearing on the replacement engine are blind holes. No opening to the crankcase. On the original trashed engine they go all the way through.

The bike is listed as a 2003 but was manufactured in 2002. Engine has crackle paint.

The replacement engine is a 2003 (no crackle paint).

So only 6 possible leak points not 7 on this engine!

[antmanbee]

This is a picture of the first flush with gas of the spine crankcase breather chamber.

It looks like only small rust particles and not the same debris that came from the oil cooler or oil pan.

There was a small amount of water, maybe less than a cc  or so when I used a syringe with a hose on it to suck out the very bottom of the chamber before I flushed it.

Mostly oil was sucked out, maybe a couple of cc's and I squirted it onto a paper towel and it looked like no particulate matter.

I am going to flush it a few more times.

[antmanbee]

I flushed a bunch more times. All the debris looks like it is just little rust specs or flakes so I don't think it is disintegrated rod bearings.

I have a feeling that probably many of the spine frame breather chambers have rust specs just like mine.

I think the easiest way to check without getting as involved as I am is to just lift the back of the fuel tank and undo the banjo fitting at the lower end of the breather tank

and then take a small clear hose and suck out the residue in the bottom crevice and have a look at that and also to put a little swab of cloth in a hemostat and swab out the lowest point 

of the chamber. That is how I got most of my debris out. It all collects in the low spot.

I am think about cutting the return line and putting a small inline filter in but I don't know what filter will flow oil not under pressure. Any suggestions?

 

Pictures are of subsequent flushes. 

Now they are coming out almost completely clean but there is still just a little.

[68C]

Perhaps a wire gauze thimblse rather than a fine oil filter.

[gstallons]

Huh ?

[O2 V11]

68C said perhaps a wire gauze thimble rather than a fine oil filter.

[68C]

[antmanbee]

I think what I am going to do is plug the oil pan where the return line goes in an run a hose out of the bottom of the spine breather chamber and cap it, and then periodically drain it.

Unless it causes excessive oil consumption I can't see how it is a good idea to return this to the sump.

The top of the spine hose that went to the air filter box, I will run that line to a small breather/air fliter.

The fat 3/4" S-shaped hose that goes from the underneath/front of the spine to the crankcase breathe tube on the back top of the engine will remain.

 

It has been too much wasted time trying to find a filter that I think will flow oil for the return line.

No return line means no debris or contaminants returning to the oil pan.