V11 Daytona project

[Lucky Phil]

18 minutes ago, docc said:

So, this step has always destroyed my ability to perform the kind of amazing project this is. At some point, the progression has to be completely disassembled and refitted.

That, IMHO, is one of the hallmarks of true Professionalism.

One that will always reveal me as a mere hobbiest.

Welldone,   LuckyPhil.

(And once again, thanks for the generous sharing of the methods, process, and progress . . . )

 

Yes docc its always a wrench to disassemble again to do the painting and finishing. My main issue at the moment is waiting for parts and materials to arrive in the post. Silly stuff like fuel hose etc. Slows the process down a lot and you tend to need everything on hand with a project like this because you're making it up as you go. So to run fuel and breather hoses you need to have things like the throttle cable routed etc because everything is so tight and messy under the tank you need to consider everything before you can finalise things.

The next major hurdle is adjustable steering stops which is going to mean fabricating a pair of stops and then machining off the old ones and bolting on the new. Cant see any other elegant way around it. My friend that usually does my machining for me is currently quite unwell and the last thing he needs is to be doing me machining favours so I'll need to work around that.

 

Ciao 

[Lucky Phil]

Got the 2K painting done today, its decent. I'm no painter. 

Ciao

[Lucky Phil]

Pulled the tape off the painted parts today. I'd rate the finish quality as an 8.5 out of 10 which is about all you can expect from an amateur that hasn't sprayed 2K paint for 35 years so I'll call it done. For anyone thats contemplating whether to powder coat or paint 2K here is the difference. I realise this is straight off the gun compared to 20 year old powder but I've cleaned and polished the powder part and the protected parts of the frame aren't really much better. If you want a tough and glossy finish with real depth you can't beat 2K, the powder just doesnt compare and thats the reason I repainted the side plates and front support. I just got tired of the lack of depth and richness to the finish.

The battery tray and rear swingarm are next in satin black. My original arm has quite a bit of weld spatter on it from the factory which is pretty pathetic really and the finish is quite poor now esp on the round tubes where the original rear hugger rubbed the surface.

2K V powder

 

Ciao

[docc]

Your saying all the red is powder coat? I didn't realize this. How can the difference be known?

[footgoose]

Looks great! wth is 2k paint?

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, docc said:

Your saying all the red is powder coat? I didn't realize this. How can the difference be known?

I believe it is docc. Its often hard to tell. Some use a wipe test with solvent which isn't totally reliable but powder is generally thicker and if you look at a flake its devoid of any primer. It also seems reluctant to respond to cutting and polishing and lacks depth. I have stripped a swing arm once that had been powdered and it came off in long plastic like strips when you tried peeling it like a piece of fruit instead a chipping off. The Guzzi parts didnt seem like this but I'm still inclined to believe they are powder. Not 100% sure but pretty confident.

If you had a decent painted surface even if it is 20 years old you should be able to cut and buff it to pretty much the same finish as new paint as long as its not been sun affected. You just cant get the V11 frame like this.

I also read it was while doing research which isn't of course definitive but made me test and evaluate.

Ciao 

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, footgoose said:

Looks great! wth is 2k paint?

2 pack paint, base and a hardener and a little thinner. Dries chemically not due to flashing off solvents. Tough, hard great depth but hard to apply without a booth to keep the dust and contaminants off. Takes about 30min to touch dry. I did mine outside and then put the stuff in the spare room with the door shut to let them cure in a dust free environment.

Ciao   

[Lucky Phil]

New oil cooler arrived today along with the inserts for the swingarm hugger mounts. All mine were toast in one way or another.The cooler is just part of the spares stock as it was so cheap. The inserts are horrid bloody things and are something like $5 ea from Guzzi. Picked them up for $1AU each eventually. If anyone is interested I can let people know what they are as they are an odd design. You cant just replace them with a regular nutsert as instead of the std 7mm hole for a 5mm bolt the Guzzi item uses a 10mm hole so you need the original style.

 

The wiring is coming along and may even finish up neater than the original. Its all basically in place I just haven't tie wrapped in position yet.

  

Also working on the new oil cooler lines and getting the routing looking clean and nice.

My titanium rod showed up a few days ago so I can finish off the tank mounts. The engine is in place and bolted up now as well.

Ciao

[docc]

Nice, Lucky Phil!

Seems the routing of the oil cooler lines can be variable. At an early South'n SpineRaid, someone pointed out I had one ahead of the front subframe mount and one behind. I've left them that way, but I am thinking the correct routing is behind the mount. This would better protect the lines from the exhaust . . .

Who knows, maybe mine is "right" and the behinders are incorrect . . .

[docc]

I went looking for better images of the oil cooler line routing. I recall that these can get abraded by frame contact to the point of wearing through.

 

[Lucky Phil]

41 minutes ago, docc said:

I went looking for better images of the oil cooler line routing. I recall that these can get abraded by frame contact to the point of wearing through.

 

Thanks docc. The issue with the new engine is the old oil lines dont fit now because the cam drive housings get in the way. I've seen distant images of these conversions where they appeared to somehow make the originals fit but I cant see how and it would be a horrible look. I've just decided to bite the bullet and make up some new lines. The left side will be routed pretty much as in the image and the right side will come across and tie to the fwd engine mount and down to the sump outlet. Main compromise is 10mm exhaust clearance but I'm comfortable with that.

Ciao   

[docc]

Maybe some heat shielding at that tight spot?

 

[Lucky Phil]

9 minutes ago, docc said:

Maybe some heat shielding at that tight spot?

 

Maybe. It would only be an issue if at all when stopped in traffic. I'll do the infa red heat gun test on the oil line spot after its hot and been idling a while and compare it to the rest of the line. I dont really expect it to be an issue though.

I have some heat shrink also to go over the hoses wherever they are likely to chaff. I'm preparing the swingarm for painting at the moment in expectation of some better weather in the next 4 or 5 days so thats the priority at the moment. Going to remove that poxy bent tab brake hose holder while I'm there and drill and tap the arm for a nice P clip to do the job.

Ciao

[docc]

Best methods, as always!

I've been expecting that "poxy" hose clip to pop off at any time. Looking forward to seeing your "P-clip solution" . . .

[Lucky Phil]

6 hours ago, docc said:

Best methods, as always!

I've been expecting that "poxy" hose clip to pop off at any time. Looking forward to seeing your "P-clip solution" . . .

Here you go docc along with my shiny side plates.

Ciao