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Posted

So here's another trap for the rookie, OR the experienced that gets led in a particular direction and doesn't do his due diligence.The cam support on the R/H cylinder has had a tiny,tiny annoying leak since I put it together. The sort of leak thats just a minor annoyance to be honest but seeing I had the tank off replacing the throttle bodies I thought I might as well look at it. Its a PITA on this bike as the engine needs to be supported and the front subframe unbolted and swung forward and the r/h header pipe removed to get the belt cover off. Then loosen the cam belt and remove the cam pulley and then remove the cam support. Anyway I had a suspicion I had used the incorrect oring on one side, I thought I may have used the fractionally smaller rocker cover plug hole oring so I got the support off and measured the installed oring ID against a spare I had and yes it looked to be under sized. Great I thought that's the issue. I did my usual cursory look at the associated parts as usual but not hard enough I suspect. Anyway all back together but still have this tiny leak. Very frustrating. So lets get out the 2 spares I have and do a dye pen check. Results below.

Moral of the story................. look beyond the obvious and check EVERYTHING. Seems porosity isn't unheard of on these supports and right in the oring groove.

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Ciao   

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  • Haha 1
Posted

I chased a weep on Rosie the Rosso for quite a while. It wouldn't show up until she was *hot.* Finally found a pin hole (literally) in the valve cover. Knowing the manufacturing process.. it boggles the mind how there could be a hole that small in diameter going all the way through.

Posted
3 hours ago, Chuck said:

I chased a weep on Rosie the Rosso for quite a while. It wouldn't show up until she was *hot.* Finally found a pin hole (literally) in the valve cover. Knowing the manufacturing process.. it boggles the mind how there could be a hole that small in diameter going all the way through.

That’s weird. The first V11 that I was looking at before I found this one had a tiny pin hole in one of the valve covers that was slowly weeping oil. The bike was a red frame with black tank, and black valve covers. At the time I was wondering how the hell something like that happens as I could not imagine it leaving the factory like that. (Questions about that bike is what lead me to this place :thumbsup::mg:). Is this a problem from the casting process or porosity? 

Posted

IIRC, no red-frames came from the factory with black valve covers, so these were probably replaced or refinished by a previous owner.

__Jason

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  • 2 years later...
Posted

A few more pieces to the never ending puzzle. Rebuilt 43mm Marzocchi forks. New seals bushes and sliders re chromed and ground. Brembo P4 34/34 calipers, later canted tripple clamps and clipons, clock re located, Ohlins steering damper, Titanium rear axle and nut, bevel housing shroud removed, new PVM 17 X 5.5 and 17 X 3.5 rims and 180 rear tyre, lightened rear brake calliper carrier, new brake lines to suit callipers. Next is to move the mufflers forward 35mm and make some new end caps that are  not so long.

 

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  • Like 6
Posted

I really like what you have built! And I see a lot of similarities with my G&B project. Only one thing that I would change: the front is almost completely black and feels a bit detached from the rest of the bike. Which is imo the one Guzzi should have built in the first place

Posted
4 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

 new brake lines ...

Just as a matter of curiosity, Phil, If I recall correctly, when I was still in Melbourne it was not legal to install braided lines on a bike that didn't have them as standard. Is that still the case?

Posted
10 hours ago, audiomick said:

Just as a matter of curiosity, Phil, If I recall correctly, when I was still in Melbourne it was not legal to install braided lines on a bike that didn't have them as standard. Is that still the case?

The V11 has braided lines as standard Mick. 

Phil

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Posted

Yeah, I know mate. But can you put braided lines on something that didn't have them as standard, or is it still illegal?

 

By the way, your Guzzi is very, very nice. B)

Posted
14 hours ago, Admin Jaap said:

I really like what you have built! And I see a lot of similarities with my G&B project. Only one thing that I would change: the front is almost completely black and feels a bit detached from the rest of the bike. Which is imo the one Guzzi should have built in the first place

Others have mentioned this but it's better in real life and if I was an expert in photo shopping so I could see what the variations would be I might consider it. The green is such a vivid and stand out colour though that it's easy to have too much of it I think. Anyone that knows how to photoshop really well I would welcome showing me versions with the fairing/and front guard in green and combinations of both.

Maybe just the front guard green. 

 

Phil

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Posted
3 minutes ago, audiomick said:

Yeah, I know mate. But can you put braided lines on something that didn't have them as standard, or is it still illegal?

 

By the way, your Guzzi is very, very nice. B)

Not entirely sure but I've been making my own braided lines for nearly 40 years on road bikes and never had an issue even in NSW where a yearly rego check was required. The benefit of having checks done by the local garage mechanic that rarely knows anything about motorcycles. Making your own for a road bike certainly isn't legal but in this case they were done professionally and are ADR compliant so I guess the answer is yes they can replace rubber hoses.

It's not German regs here yet Mick thank god, but the way things go it probably will be eventually.  

 

Phil

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Posted

Here's what I used to bleed the front brakes from completely dry. It will get you 90% there from that point and the rest is the usual process. It will do 100% bleed for fluid changes etc.

Cheap as chips and worth every penny. With my home made reservoir adaptor.

Phil

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Posted
10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Here's what I used to bleed the front brakes from completely dry. It will get you 90% there from that point and the rest is the usual process. It will do 100% bleed for fluid changes etc.

Cheap as chips and worth every penny. With my home made reservoir adaptor.

Phil

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I love those things. It can be a pain adapting it to each reservoir, but it is worth it.

Posted

Phil, what kind of pressure do you use? I'm afraid of blowing the hose off with the remote reservoir. A reservoir cast into the master cylinder no problem. Brake fluid sprayed under pressure is a thing for nightmares.

 Once you introduce air into the system it really takes pressure bleeding to restore that firm action again. I looked at pressure bleeders that work from the bottom up but were way overpriced.

Posted
1 hour ago, Kevin_T said:

Phil, what kind of pressure do you use? I'm afraid of blowing the hose off with the remote reservoir. A reservoir cast into the master cylinder no problem. Brake fluid sprayed under pressure is a thing for nightmares.

 Once you introduce air into the system it really takes pressure bleeding to restore that firm action again. I looked at pressure bleeders that work from the bottom up but were way overpriced.

10 psi on the bike and 15 on the cars that also have plastic reservoirs. The secret to perfect brakes on bikes is to remove the master from the bars and tip it up so the hose connections are lower than the reservoir and gently work the lever so you only move the piston a fraction (with the master off the bars you can't really apply any pressure anyway) This shakes loose air bubbles trapped at the master fitting and observe the air bubbles come back into the reservoir. I would do this procedure at least 6 or 8 times during the bleeding process along with tapping the hoses as well a lot. Patience is the key. I spent at least 45 min filling and bleeding the front brakes to get the best possible lever.

Fluid replacement is quick and easy, air bleed from dry time consuming.

 

Phil

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