rear bearings and brake

[docc]

On 4/21/2019 at 6:43 AM, Lucky Phil said:

Yes docc source some decent brand bearings, Timken, SKF, Koyo etc.

After you install the new bearings can you report back on how the bearing feels to turn by finger. I suspect these may actually need bearings with C2 or C3 clearance for greater life.

ciao

Curtis Harper, Harper's Moto Guzzi, Missourri, USA , sourced a pair of Koyo for me.

Brembo pads coming from MGCycle in Wisconsin. 

Might skip the leaky clutch slave for now, but my rear brake rotor is a millimeter under the wear spec. I have all the parts to replace that, so "should" . . .

Just "maintenance" . . .

[docc]

Looks like the (delayed) Koyo bearings will go in the spares pile while I fit a pair of SKF from Argentina.  New Brembo pads, new MG rear rotor and fasteners, bleed the system, and free the pistons. Going to grease the fit of the bearings to the hubs as the rust and corrosion made the last ones a bugger to remove.

 

. . . + a fresh (expensive) Pirelli Angel GT (now "Made in China" )

[czakky]

I rarely mind the work put into running/maintaining old/Italian bikes. It’s the waiting on parts that kills me.

[czakky]

I think there are three different wheel bearing sizes on my 02.... The T3. One.

[docc]

3 minutes ago, czakky said:

I think there are three different wheel bearing sizes on my 02.... The T3. One.

Yeah, mon. My two rears are same (6204/ 20mmx47mmx14mm), and the two fronts are 52s and different from one another on the early Sport. Later V11 fronts are probably different than mine.

Just seems like such a good idea to have quality spares on hand for that next tire change. 

[andy york]

[docc]

So, the SKF are in, brakepads and fluid, but no way could I get the original rotor off with my ill-fitting, cheap Craftsman hex drive (even with heat and an impact tool). Stopped before I destroyed the fastener and installed the much more aggressive looking Brembo "Carbon Ceramic" pads (07BB0106) that came from MGCycle as OEM.  They have blue backing plates if that means anything?

[edit/ July 22, 2023: More on this at the Brembo brake pads thread.

I learned a couple things to share, partly because of the Sport's service life but mostly because of my "last technician" (me ):

1) I miscalculated the mileage on the Chinese bearings because of my speedometer change. The brake side bearing went 20,000 miles/ 32.250 km. Half what the OEM lasted.

2) Having consistently neglected cleaning where the bearings install in the wheel or greasing that surface, the bearings were very hard to remove. I have now diligently polished those surfaces, cleaned, and used a thin layer of BelRay Waterproof grease, then the "freeze/heat method" to install the new SKF.

3) I remember some of the spacers in the early V11 were undersized leading to premature bearing failures. My original spacer is 112mm, just for reference. [EDIT/ critical length looks to be 113mm!]

4) Anytime your rear wheel is off, do not neglect to clean and liberally grease the needle cage on the right side between the swingarm and the rear drive. Grease also the race that sits within the needle cage and rotate them to new positions. Grease under the washer that should be between the swingarm and this cage/race. I say "should be" because my Sport was delivered without it. Failure to seal that critical area destroyed the sealing surface on the crownwheel nose of another reardrive I have. 

Again, much of this is in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

I'm thinking a lot of V11 are approaching the point in their service life that these things should be seen to routinely . . .

 

[gstallons]

I have been involved with trying to remove these on a lot of bikes . They must have used the best Loc-Tite red EVER created installing these rotor bolts .

[Chuck]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

I have been involved with trying to remove these on a lot of bikes . They must have used the best Loc-Tite red EVER created installing these rotor bolts .

I didn't have too much trouble with the Rosso Corsa's rear, but Unkept's LeMans required the ox acetylene torch.

[gstallons]

Mot to mention a perfect socket / driver . The old hammer impact driver set-up will never go out of style .

[gstallons]

On 5/4/2019 at 2:56 PM, docc said:

So, the SKF are in, brakepads and fluid, but no way could I get the original rotor off with my ill-fitting, cheap Craftsman hex drive (even with heat and an impact tool). Stopped before I destroyed the fastener and installed the much more aggressive looking Brembo "Carbon Ceramic" pads (07BB0106) that came from MGCycle as OEM.  They have blue backing plates if that means anything?

I learned a couple things to share, partly because of the Sport's service life but mostly because of my "last technician" (me ):

1) I miscalculated the mileage on the Chinese bearings because of my speedometer change. The brake side bearing went 20,000 miles/ 32.250 km. Half what the OEM lasted.

2) Having consistently neglected cleaning where the bearings install in the wheel or greasing that surface, the bearings were very hard to remove. I have now diligently polished those surfaces, cleaned, and used a thin layer of BelRay Waterproof grease, then the "freeze/heat method to install the new SKF.

3) I remember some of the spacers in the early V11 were undersized leading to premature bearing failures. It is 112mm, just for reference. {Correct length is, apparently, 113mm.}

4) Anytime your rear wheel is off, do not neglect to clean and liberally grease the needle cage on the right side between the swingarm and the rear drive. Grease also the race that sits within the needle cage and rotate these to new positions. Grease under the washer that should be between the swingarm and this cage/race. I say "should be" because my Sport was delivered without it. Failure to seal that critical area destroyed the sealing surface on the crownwheel nose of another reardrive I have. 

Again, much of this is in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

I'm thinking a lot of V11 are approaching the point in their service life that these things should be seen to routinely . . .

 

Is this rough area a seal surface ?

[docc]

Yep, that is the Inner Seal surface of the rear drive. This is the seal surface of the deep seal within the V11 reardrive, under the drive's right side bearing that must be removed and replaced to set that inner, right side, seal.

Pictured is what happens to that surface if badness and wetness and moisture gets in past the right side, outboard, needle cage next to the right side swingarm. FWIW, this came off the same LeMans that chuck had to use oxyacetylene to remove the rotor fasteners. Those Indiana roads!

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

Is this rough are a seal surface ?

You can buy sleeves for the seal areas like this so they can be reclaimed. Its a thin walled sleeve of probably .010" wall thickness that presses over the damaged area so the seal has a new running surface.

Ciao

[gstallons]

Yeah , I got them through NAPA or bearing stores . They were ( 20 yrs ago ) cheap . Now , $$$$ .

[docc]

On 4/22/2019 at 2:52 AM, Lucky Phil said:

When my drive side rear wheel bearing failed I found the bearing spacer was too short so I shimmed it to stop it loading the bearing. I did however notice that the bearings felt a little tight when installed and I postulated about fitting bearings with more radial clearance.

ciao

What is the correct bearing spacer length for the early Sport 4.5 inch rim? (I found mine to be 112mm, but cannot be certain it is correct  . . . )