footgoose Posted May 4, 2019 Posted May 4, 2019 On 5/2/2019 at 6:25 PM, Lucky Phil said: Its probably not an issue anymore docc as I dont think RAM make the flywheel sensor kit anymore. MG cyxle still denote the latest kit for bikes without flywheel pickup so carbed bike owners dont buy them or know they must modify them I guess. They were for the carbed bikes I now realize but I think they would still fit the V11 anyway. Note the 4 plated cap screws on the periphery of the flywheel for the flywheel ignition pickup equipped bikes. If they caused an interference issue on a V11 you could just remove them. Ciao This flywheel bears a strong resemblance to my OEM Tenni fw. but for the sensor cap screws. 1
Lucky Phil Posted May 5, 2019 Posted May 5, 2019 2 hours ago, footgoose said: This flywheel bears a strong resemblance to my OEM Tenni fw. but for the sensor cap screws. Thats because the Guzzi single plater is in fact a RAM unit but with a flywheel sourced from elsewhere. Thats why the Guzzi ones crack and the RAM one don't. Ciao 2
footgoose Posted May 5, 2019 Posted May 5, 2019 the Guzzi 'single' flywheel is aluminum. the RAM is steel. that is why the RAM does not crack
Lucky Phil Posted May 5, 2019 Posted May 5, 2019 18 hours ago, footgoose said: the Guzzi 'single' flywheel is aluminum. the RAM is steel. that is why the RAM does not crack RAM single plate flywheels have only been steel for the last year or two, the very latest version. In the previous 15 years they were available they were aluminium and had no issues with cracking. The latest steel RAM unit also weighs around 1kg more than the alloy version. Ciao
sp838 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Posted May 6, 2019 3 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: The latest steel RAM unit also weighs around 1kg more than the alloy version. So a happy medium? How much less compared to the stock flywheel? Would adding some drillium to it be worthwhile?
Scud Posted May 6, 2019 Posted May 6, 2019 I would not drill the steel RAM flywheel. I think it behaves basically the same as the aluminum one that I removed from my Scura. While the new RAM unit weighs a bit more, the mass is more centralized as it has three spokes, not a full circle. And it only weighs about 1 pound more (not 1 kilo). Here is a link to a post I made a while back comparing the three clutches: back 3
footgoose Posted May 6, 2019 Posted May 6, 2019 thanks for that link Tim. Very helpful. It and other pertinent threads could be combined (?) maybe for a massive Single Plate Conversion 'sticky' ??
Scud Posted May 6, 2019 Posted May 6, 2019 Could be an FAQ: WTF is the deal with Single Plate Clutches? The search functions, with AND (all caps) between words are quite helpful to find old, relevant posts. If I recall correctly, I searched "ram AND weight AND aluminum". I knew I had posted a picture of all three clutch possibilities sitting on a scale.
sp838 Posted May 24, 2019 Author Posted May 24, 2019 Clutch received today, and I'm already wracked with doubts wondering if I made a terrible (ie costly) mistake in buying it. I guess worst case is I return it and have to eat the costs of shipping both ways. Below are some photos, if anyone more knowledgeable and smarter than I am (so basically all of you guys) can tell from the photos if this will work or not, or what I should do to check, I would be very appreciative. For starters, where is the much discussed hub supposed to go? I doesn't fit over the small cylindrical thing in the assembly, though the teeth look like they would match... Does that cylindrical thing get replaced by my hub? If so how do I remove it? I tugged on it and it won't come out on its own. (Maybe I need a hammer) Should I disassemble the whole stack? Next thing I have doubts about are the outer teeth which I assume are for the starter motor. Anyway, please weigh in and let me know on a relative scale just how much of a mistake I made and how big an idiot I am... Happy to take more photos if that helps. view into the place where I think the hub should go: does this guy come out? new hub looks like it wants to go in here but does't fit over that part. Splines on the inside of it don't match anyway: this friggin guy:
Lucky Phil Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 Just knock out the supplied hub and use your 6 speed one. You might need to turn the fitted one to get the splines to line up if the're out and then pull/tap it out from the engine side. Looks to me like they have just slid it in there for packaging and transport purposes. Ciao 1
docc Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 32 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Just knock out the supplied hub and use your 6 speed one. You might need to turn the fitted one to get the splines to line up if the're out and then pull/tap it out from the engine side. Looks to me like they have just slid it in there for packaging and transport purposes. Ciao Right. The "hub" fastens to the gearbox input shaft with a special nut and "safety retention washer" with a tab that turns down to lock the "slotted nut." Don't let it walk off and end up like po'-po' me . . . 1
sp838 Posted May 25, 2019 Author Posted May 25, 2019 That's what I was hoping you would say... What about the big starter motor gear? Should I count the teeth/measure diameter? Or that one of those things that is common to Guzzi across models and decades? Will get a new hub nut and washer when install time comes 🤞🤞
sp838 Posted May 25, 2019 Author Posted May 25, 2019 Got the included hub out, single plate V11 hub fits like a glove. And yes, the hammer was necessary. 1
Lucky Phil Posted May 25, 2019 Posted May 25, 2019 1 hour ago, sp838 said: Got the included hub out, single plate V11 hub fits like a glove. And yes, the hammer was necessary. Yep thats what I meant you to do. Why have you removed the ring gear bolts? You could even use your original gearbox input hub if its not worn. BTW the image of the gearbox input hub ring nut in doccs post is shown fitted the wrong way around. The tapered face goes towards the gearbox side. Ciao
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