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Posted

I had to split the whole package to get the hub out. It clearly got pushed in during shipping and twisted around, and got caught between the friction plate and the part in front of it. Really annoying, and could have damaged the teeth, but luckily no damage done. I bolted it all back together after I got it out.

So big outer ring gear? Anything to worry about there compatibility wise?

Posted
1 hour ago, sp838 said:

I had to split the whole package to get the hub out. It clearly got pushed in during shipping and twisted around, and got caught between the friction plate and the part in front of it. Really annoying, and could have damaged the teeth, but luckily no damage done. I bolted it all back together after I got it out.

So big outer ring gear? Anything to worry about there compatibility wise?

Your ring gear looks identical to my RAM unit fitted to the Daytona engine on my bench.

 

Ciao

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Posted
2 hours ago, Chuck said:

A claw hammer??? :o

A breach of hammer and engineering etiquette.

Ciao 

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Posted

Pshaw. It did the job exactly as needed with elegance and grace.

New clutch package weight:

large.1EB62367-2D5A-42AB-915A-E3B1C5B79AB7.jpeg

Posted
10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Yep thats what I meant you to do. Why have you removed the ring gear bolts? You could even use your original gearbox input hub if its not worn.

BTW the image of the gearbox input hub ring nut in doccs post is shown fitted the wrong way around. The tapered face goes towards the gearbox side.

 

Ciao

WHAAAAAT? OH $#!T . . .  :blink:

That's the way it came off. Of course, the retention safety washer had not been correctly staked and it walked of on its own. :o Tomchri's looks the same here?:

IMG_0250.JPG

The new safety washer tab indexed smartly with the "nut" in this orientation:

IMG_2691.jpg

I can't find this assembly in the Workshop Manual at all. :huh2:

Posted

Have you checked the diameter of the cup the pushrod actuates against the diameter of your clutch pushrod? I found a 5 speed RAM clutch had the wrong size for a V11.




Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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Posted
5 hours ago, Paradiso said:

Have you checked the diameter of the cup the pushrod actuates against the diameter of your clutch pushrod?
 

Not yet, just gave it a look using the old eyeball-o-metrics and it seems to be around 5mm inside diamter, as described in some previous replies. I was planning on having the end of the push rod turned down to fit. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, sp838 said:

Not yet, just gave it a look using the old eyeball-o-metrics and it seems to be around 5mm inside diamter, as described in some previous replies. I was planning on having the end of the push rod turned down to fit. 

:thumbsup:

Posted

Getting a little too intimate here perhaps, here's a closeup of the, uh, hole:

large.DD48CF44-033D-4624-BB5E-89688CCE7658.jpeg

This is the end of a 1/4" drill bit, fits very comfortably inside the cup, so the ID is at the very least 6.35mm:

large.A7219A1A-834F-45DA-A592-E260A24CDC82.jpeg

Posted

How does that 1/4" shaft compare with the factory 6speed twin-plate pushrod you have?

Posted

Dunno, mine's still inside the bike. Who here has measured their, uh, rods? :blush:

Posted
1 hour ago, sp838 said:

Dunno, mine's still inside the bike. Who here has measured their, uh, rods? :blush:

I posted this earlier in this thread ...

"I have an actuating rod from a dual plate '03 and it measures 203mm in length by 8mm

I have the OEM 6spd clutch actuating rod receiving cup, or "button" with a hole measuring 8.68mm. I don't have the rod to measure length as it's in the bike.

I had, and threw out, a 5spd clutch. I measured the "button" hole and posted it somewhere on the forum in one of our conversion threads. I believe it's smaller in dia. maybe 6 or 7mm??" Sorry

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Posted

Yes! Thank you. Going from 8mm down to 6mm shouldn't be too tough, could probably just pound it down on an anvil with my claw hammer :rolleyes:

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Posted
9 hours ago, docc said:

WHAAAAAT? OH $#!T . . .  :blink:

That's the way it came off. Of course, the retention safety washer had not been correctly staked and it walked of on its own. :o Tomchri's looks the same here?:

IMG_0250.JPG

The new safety washer tab indexed smartly with the "nut" in this orientation:

IMG_2691.jpg

I can't find this assembly in the Workshop Manual at all. :huh2:

Sorry docc I may have got you worrying for nothing. I went down and had a good look at my spare gearbox and the ring nut looks to be bi-directional IE it had a taper on both faces.

If you look carefully at the back side of the nut you will see its equally tapered. There is no part number difference between any of the V11 6 speed gearbox ring nuts either. 

DSC00801.JPG

Ducati bevel drive countershaft ring nuts were also similar to this but one face was totally flat and the and the other tapered. It seemed natural to fit the flat face inwards but I later read that this was incorrect and when you thought about it although counter intuitive it made sense from an engineering point of view. With the one sided flat faced nut it fouled slightly the tabs on the lock washer with the flat face against it and also presented a larger surface area to the washer which created more friction during tighteneing and a different torque so they regularly came loose. 

So looks like I'm wrong about this and sorry again. The image of the Guzzi ring nut had me automatically visualizing a Ducati one. It looks like the Guzzi one  can be fitted either way. Rest easy, I feel really bad.

Ciao  

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