Brakes.

[sullvarni]

So I finally got my 02 LeMans going, still no neutral light, disconnected the side stand cutoff.

I've put a new brake and clutch levers on and going for a test run which included a Klm of gravel road which I was a little apprihecive about though the first part was tarmac.

Sure enough as soon as my front wheel hit the gravel down I went WTF, I've been riding for many years being 73 so was being very cautious, I'm ok but the Guz not so much, dinged the left Titanium muffler, front signal light thrashed, scraped the fairing, bent footpeg.

Eventually someone came along we picked it up called a friend with a trailer and dragged it home but here's the thing the front brake is jammed on and that's why I washed out not my incompetence sot of Lol.

We had to bleed the brake just to get it on the trailer, sorry this is a bit convoluted but can anyone explain what might be going on, I assume I screwed the install of the new front brake lever but how.

Thanks Stu

 

 

 

[pete roper]

It sounds to me as though for whatever reason the piston on the master cylinder isn't able to return fully. This means that the priming port that allows fluid to return to the reservoir is blocked off effectively making the system closed. This being the case as the brakes warm up the fluid expands but being unable to release the pressure by expanding into the reservoir it's only option is to push the pistons in the calipers out, therefore applying the brakes, which in turn causes more heat, more fluid expansion, more pressure etc. until the front wheel locks.

I think there was another thread recently where someone had exactly the same problem with their rear brake?

What I'd check first is the plunger that presses on the piston of the master cylinder. Most of these are adjustable on Brembo M/C's although I can't remember the exact set-up on V11's. Most likely there will be a small barrel in the hand lever with the plunger threaded in to it. This will be secured with a tiny grub screw with a 1.5 or 2mm Allen hex in it. Loosen the grub screw and wind the plunger a bit further into the barrel, (Try 1/2 a turn at a time.) and then relighted the grub screw and re-mount the lever. Check that when the lever is released the piston can fully return. If it can't? Repeat until it can. That priming port has to be open when the lever is released or you'll end up going arse-over-tit again!

Pete

Edit. Yup. Just a few posts below this one. Phil and Moto seem to have nailed it.

[knumbnutz]

The levers on the v11 have a small cup threaded in and the cup has the small rod go in to the master cylinder plunger.
When you put the lever on, you would have found it hard and had to push the lever on to the rod to get it to go in to place.
This has blocked the port although the lever and brakes would have seemingly worked fine, they would have come on and not just staying on but locked up as they got hot.
Pretty common outcome if adding new levers and oblivious to this potential issue

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[sullvarni]

Thanks for the info you guys, when me and my bud put the lever on we found a small ball bearing on the ground after and wondered where it came from, would this be part of the issue.

Stu.

[pete roper]

Nah. That'll be the ball from the clutch switch I'd think.

[footgoose]

there is a small ball just inside the lever housing which aids activation of the brake light switch.

[sullvarni]

The ball bearing on the break leaver side does it go before the rod pin or after it?

The brake light is staying on after using the front brake.

 

[docc]

IIRC, from outboard->inward through the small hole: lever->ball bearing->"rod pin"-> switch

It is common to get trash in there and jam the contents against the switch which leave cause it to stay on. Perhaps, just a good cleaning with something like electronics cleaner?

(Just don't let that little bearing get away!)

[footgoose]

also... the little switch is very sensitive to position and tightness of the bolts. Try loosening/re tightening  them and be sure there's no bind anywhere. Often a slight adjustment will fix it.

[sullvarni]

So one more time, it's like a never ending story, all the old levers are back on, ball bearing and rod in the correct order, brake lines drained.of air and seem to be working ok but the brake lite is on permanently.

I feel like a bloody idiot even asking but anyone have any idea what the frig is going on now.

Checked a few things, bulb is ok, rear brack activated has no effect, any help is much appropriated again thanks, the good thing is the weather here in Northern British Columbia Canada has been crap so there's not been a rush on this at all Lol.

Re reading I see footgoose mentioned the ball bearing activating the brake light so I assume I've not got it right yet, confused, doesn't take much.

 

 

Edited July 18, 2020 by sullvarni
Addition.

[gstallons]

Disconnect this wiring to see if the brake light goes out . You will make sure you are going in the right direction .  

I will try to see how mine works in the A.M. and let you know

[sullvarni]

Ok thanks.

[footgoose]

I really think it is the micro switch at the front brake lever. Loosen the tiny bolt/nuts and wiggle the the switch some, making sure there is no binding, pull the brake lever and let it flip back... if the light goes out, you found it. Flip the lever as you re-tighten the bolts to be sure the light stays out, without tightening 'too' tight. This has happened to me twice on different V11. Once just loosening the bolts made the light go out. It is a sensitive little switch. If this doesn't fix it, I still think it's the switch. 

[sullvarni]

Footgoose, ok will try that thanks again.

[sullvarni]

Thank you to all who helped me out on.this topic, brake sorted now just need the weather to cooperate.