TimB MV Posted June 9, 2019 Author Posted June 9, 2019 Yup!!! Try trickle charge? Why would a new battery just die like that... could something drain even when key is out??
Chuck Posted June 9, 2019 Posted June 9, 2019 A new battery that has been sitting for a year is no longer a new battery. If you have a USB port on the bike, it will kill a battery deader than a mackeral. Don't ask me how I know this..
docc Posted June 9, 2019 Posted June 9, 2019 1 hour ago, TimB MV said: Yup!!! Try trickle charge? Why would a new battery just die like that... could something drain even when key is out?? Look at the post in that battery conditioning thread. There are some important steps to take charging an Odyssey, which are often delivered at 50% state of charge (that's like 12.5 volts). "Trickle" charger won't cut it. Use a minimum of 6 amps until the battery reaches 14.7 v (not over 15.0v). Sounds like you would want to invest in a quality digital meter that will read accurately to 0.01v. So, otherwise, you very likely have a series of "contributors" to your issue. In the short space of four hours, you have plenty of homework already!
TimB MV Posted June 9, 2019 Author Posted June 9, 2019 You all are awesome... I will do my due diligence as the bike deserves!! Ill check back soon with updates!!🤙🏻🤘🏻 1 1
TimB MV Posted June 15, 2019 Author Posted June 15, 2019 Good evening my friends!! All is well on MV. Test of the old battery and replacement of a brand new one is the solution!! NOT!!😡🤬😢 The Odyssey battery came fully charged at 12.78 on the multimeter. Ready to go out of the box!! I installed it and was feeling pretty good about things! Fired right up... sounded powerful.. went for a test ride! Then.... I tested it after the ride and it went from a 12.78reading to a 12.46 reading.After only a 15 min ride or so. Losing charge somewhere still! So... where do I go from here... Lose connection, Stador coil, ???? Fuses are fine... nothing smoked...🤷🏻♂️ Any other diagnostic things I can do?? I appreciate the help from you guys.. Stay safe and talk soon!!🤙🏻
JBBenson Posted June 16, 2019 Posted June 16, 2019 Condition your new battery first before looking for other issues. Get an approved charger and cycle it a few times (search for Docc’s thread about battery conditioning). 1 1
docc Posted June 16, 2019 Posted June 16, 2019 Seems your V11 is not charging. You can begin by making sure you have High Current Relays: Make sure the regulator case is grounded to the engine, and the main ground at the right rear of the gearbox is clean and tight. Tighten clean, "treat" battery terminals. Caig DeOxit is electrical liquid magic! If still no charge (check your voltage while running at idle at at "some rpm"), expect something like 14.2 volts, no less than 13.8v. No charging? Inspect the two yellow wires that exit the stator under the "alternator cover" or consider replacing the regulator. 1
GuzziMoto Posted June 17, 2019 Posted June 17, 2019 As I recall, make sure your headlight is properly lit when the engine is running. There is a relay that can cause the headlight to not lit (watch out, there is a secondary light, a running light, in the headlight bucket that may still be lit). If the headlight doesn't have power the charging system won't charge correctly as it senses the state of the battery off the headlight circuit. Relay issues are a common issue with these bikes. There are better relays available then what comes stock. Start the engine, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be over 14 volts. By the way, as I recall 12.84 volts is fully chared for an AGM battery like the Odyssey. 1 1
TimB MV Posted June 18, 2019 Author Posted June 18, 2019 Should I replace all relays and see if that is the next logical culprit? i figure.. replace one.. order all 5.. Replace all 5.... they are the same correct??🤷🏻♂️👍🏻 Is there an order of what relay does what?? Ill look it up.. but any info is helpful!!
GuzziMoto Posted June 18, 2019 Posted June 18, 2019 As I recall, there are two different relays, four pin and five pin. If you get all five pin relays, they will work in any slot, four pin or five pin. A four pin re;lay won't work in a five pin relay slot. So it is better to only buy five pin relays. They will work in any of the five relay locations. The extra pin on them simply goes unused when you put a five pin relay into a four pin relay slot. 1 1
TimB MV Posted June 18, 2019 Author Posted June 18, 2019 Relays ordered... harder to find than I thought!! Going to follow up on others advice as far as the ground and stador wires soon.. want to be able to focus on what I’m doing.. the island of Martha’s Vineyard is a little crazy this time of year!!🙏🏻👍🏻
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 27, 2019 Posted June 27, 2019 On 6/9/2019 at 8:09 AM, TimB MV said: I’m looking for any leads into this problem please!! Woke this morning to a dead battery. Bike has been running in top performance. Battery is new last year. I jumped it.. fired right up... Rode it for 10 minutes or so and noticed my rpm tack was not registering. The motor sputtered and quit about 2 min later. Bike world not turn over... jumped again and idled perfectly.. as soon as I put it in gear it sputtered and quit again. I have it back home and looking to trouble shoot this!! Brand new battery from last year... I ran the bike just two days ago and it was just fine... Any help is much appreciated! Tim B on Martha’s Vineyard jrbeg@hotmail.com The Tach, Idiot lights and Ducati Energia Voltage regulator are all fed from the headlight relay so anytime the Tach is not working chances are the battery is going flat and you need to investigate straight away, first thing to do is see if the headlight is On. Of course if the headlight relay is open the Oil and Charging lights are not working either so you don't have any indication of a charge problem until the engine quits and you have a flat battery. The Voltage regulator must have 12 Volts to turn it On. My usual "get me home" fix is to wrap a wire around the black pin of the voltage regulator and stuff the other end in somewhere hot Some early bikes had the headlight fed through a normally closed contact of the start relay, it must be a 5 pin, This is an earlier version, Carl doesn't have an 03 Trace the Red/Black wire from the headlight relay to the regulator, see how pin 30 of the relay is fed from the start relay, Later versions are a little different, the headlight relay coil is fed from the start relay but the result is the same. You may find a better version of the diagram here but no perving at Carl's girlfriend Haha http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html 1 1
TimB MV Posted July 11, 2019 Author Posted July 11, 2019 Good Morning All... So I’ve replaced battery and relays... This morning I had time to uncover my Stator cover to check connections.. I was careful doing so... and I found a broken connection. I certainly don’t think I caused this while removing the cap!! 1
TimB MV Posted July 11, 2019 Author Posted July 11, 2019 Trying to upload photos.... This seems like the obvious cause now.. but I just hope it didn’t happen while investigating it... Anybody else have experience with this.. Text me for Photos.. 603-209-1875 🙏🏻🤙🏻.. Thanks everybody!!
luhbo Posted July 11, 2019 Posted July 11, 2019 No, that happens just so. Me, too, had to go through this once. I could resolder mine. You'd need a solid iron, 100W is adequate. And it should not be your first attempt to solder something. 1
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