Guzzisti friendship

[Tomchri]

Had the Greenie on the road now for about 500miles, yesterday suddenly sputtering and dies. Rev sensor comes to my mind, but that was only a loose +cable, I THOUGHT .

Up in the valleys today, same thing.

Starts and run perfect idling, no reving, sputtering and dies.

Rolf Halvorsen (on the V11forum)

was going to stop by my house today to see the regulator story.

He calls, but I was stuck up in the valleys. I have rev sensors, tps and tools in the car,, where are you. He went to my house, got my van, and 60miles.

Had the sensor out when he came.

New sensor in, YES.

What is the odds to meet somebody up here with parts in the car like an hour away, non existing.

Long story long, but cheers to Rolf and the rest of the clan. (Spare sensor on board, mine have been to close to the sprocket )

He just had an exelent idea for checking the gap.

Cheers tom.

 

Sent fra min SM-G903F via Tapatalk

 

 

[Chuck]

(ahem) That might have been set a little closely..

[docc]

18 minutes ago, Chuck said:

(ahem) That might have been set a little closely..

Perhaps it got installed without the calibrated spacing shim?

[Tomchri]

1 shim was  in there 0.55mm. Istalled the new sensor with an extra 0.85mm shim.  Rolf said why not use a 10mm long bolt with a nut on, turn the nut down, and measure the correct distance for shims.

cheers tom.

[footgoose]

Tom, was that an oem sensor? I'm curious now as to what the "ideal" gap is, under the sensor.

[MartyNZ]

7 hours ago, footgoose said:

Tom, was that an oem sensor? I'm curious now as to what the "ideal" gap is, under the sensor.

 The manual says 0.7 - 0.9 mm gap. See extracted page.

Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf

[Tomchri]

2 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

 The manual says 0.7 - 0.9 mm gap. See extracted page.

Shimming V11 RPM Sensor.pdf 66.43 kB · 1 download

It was a Magneti M sensor, fastened with some lousy fancy bling bolts from C, other than that I wouldn't know. Previous owners never touch the bike, just dealers, which could mean a lot   

cheers tom.

[footgoose]

4 hours ago, Tomchri said:

It was a Magneti M sensor, fastened with some lousy fancy bling bolts from C, other than that I wouldn't know. Previous owners never touch the bike, just dealers, which could mean a lot   

cheers tom.

With that tolerance, how would one ever get an accurate measurement?

Considering that damage, my guess would be that the sensor was installed tight against the wheel long enough for them to realize they forgot something (shims)... but then, how did the bike run well until recently?

 

[Tomchri]

4 hours ago, footgoose said:

With that tolerance, how would one ever get an accurate measurement?

Considering that damage, my guess would be that the sensor was installed tight against the wheel long enough for them to realize they forgot something (shims)... but then, how did the bike run well until recently?

 

Actually she was running very well, no sneezing at all, sometimes steady around 3000 ---  3rd gear, you can feel all the clearance in the drivetrain, little on of.  

Don't think it's been in there for long,, because of bling bolts, and  appearance . My chain and tensioner were all tight.

 I will try what Rolf H mensioned about the bolt and nut idea for measure  ,,, next time.

 Cheers tom.

[gstallons]

# 1 remove anything that will give you a false clearance reading.

 # 2 make sure one tooth is in the exact center of the sensor bore .

 # 3 drop the new sensor into the bore and allow it to rest on top of the gear tooth . 

# 4 measure the clearance between sensor flange and mounting surface .

 # 4 add this # to the needed clearance and select the needed shim . Be liberal in adding the numbers .

 # 5 this should have you ready to go !

[gstallons]

To me that is 0.027" to 0.035 "....this to me seems pretty big air gap . Is this wide ? I would think 0.010' to 0.015" would be better ?

[Chuck]

.030" has been proven over the years to be ideal. Don't ask me how I know this, but if it is too wide the engine will idle only.

[luhbo]

The hardware/software developer here where I work (those who told me the phase sensor would be Hall based ... ) say the gap and the thus resulting signal form and strength could interfere with cpu frequency, polling frequencies and so on.
While they were wrong with what type the sensor is, they might be correct in this case. Most here think this engine/ecu combo has a sensitive point between 3 and 4K for instance, regardless what mapping is used. This would be an interesting subject for someone who has the tools to dig in further at this point. Maybe this has to do with how big this gap is.

So, if an ideal gap, probably, exists, why not Chuck's .030"

[Chuck]

I don't think it is *that* critical, but I shoot for .030". Obviously, they will run with an interference fit for a while. .050" is too much. I played with this stuff a *lot* with my Centauro many years ago. It took me 2 years of fooling around with it until I finally cured that occasional hiccup around 3K rpm. On my bike, the brass temp sensor holder was the last piece of the puzzle.

[Tinus89]

8 hours ago, luhbo said:

The hardware/software developer here where I work (those who told me the phase sensor would be Hall based ... ) say the gap and the thus resulting signal form and strength could interfere with cpu frequency, polling frequencies and so on.
While they were wrong with what type the sensor is, they might be correct in this case. Most here think this engine/ecu combo has a sensitive point between 3 and 4K for instance, regardless what mapping is used. This would be an interesting subject for someone who has the tools to dig in further at this point. Maybe this has to do with how big this gap is.

So, if an ideal gap, probably, exists, why not Chuck's .030"

 

Interesting. I had cutouts/misfires and the strangest shit starting around 3k rpm once, even that bad that when I held the throttle WO, she would just die.
What it was? Previous owner most likely placed a non-oil compatible and too large o-ring around the sensor, which pushed it away from the phonic wheel. When the o-ring was oil-saturated and the engine became properly hot (city traffic), going above 3k rpm caused her to die....

Was clearly visibly by the sensor mounting plate to be bent outwards.