30 amp fuse

[thumper]

Where is it, and anyone hove a picture?

Thanks

[docc]

Under the seat on left, back; third from the front.

Stand by for pics and links . . .

[thumper]

Thanks docc

[docc]

Here ya go, buddy:

The factory "mini" fuse is pretty awful about heat damage. My ordeal chronicled here:

 

[thumper]

Thanks docc I was thinking it was a stand alone fuse, its in the fuse block. Then it all looks good.

 

[sp838]

I really love your 30 amp circuit breaker solution. When I re-wire the bike this winter with an m-unit, I will totally steal this idea for the one and only fuse that will still be needed for the charging circuit. 

[docc]

Yeah, I even tried running with the fuse block lid off. No joy. That is a hard area to ventilate on the V11 without flowing in road-crap and weather-scuz. 

Honda VFR guys learned to use computer hard-drive fans to cool their regulators. Is that what we have come to?

Turn the left side of the V11 into a Testarossa, of sorts?

Or just go total Jim Hall/ Chapparal . . .

[hammershaug]

Experienced my first main fuse meltdown today, but didn’t know about it before now.

Must admit I ignored the red charging light during my fast ride today, because I was so eager to blow some steam off on a curvy road just north of my home. Indian summer, low traffic, mountain area, clear blue sky, man and machine become one. Nothing could stop me. Not even a red light.

Well, at last it did.

It caused the low fuel indicator to fail, so I ran out of fuel in some rural area...
Later on the turn signal stopped working, and when the starter motor failed after filling fuel, I knew the battery was almost empty.

Thank god I had spare fuses with me. The fuse holder was also pretty melted, but managed to replace the 30A fuse. A friend of mine came along, lucky me! Of course he had jumper cables and a multimeter. He’s a Harley driver.

Can’t hardly wait to get the Greenie in the basement for winter, and start the big makeover.

An 30A circuit breaker sounds like a good idea:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited September 21, 2019 by hammershaug
Minor adjustmenst

[Kiwi_Roy]

I suggested this quite a while ago

Take a maxi fuse link and drill a hole in each blade then bolt lugs to it, that will ensure a low resistance and no heat.

[Rox Lemans]

On 9/21/2019 at 10:13 AM, hammershaug said:

Experienced my first main fuse meltdown today, but didn’t know about it before now.

Must admit I ignored the red charging light during my fast ride today, because I was so eager to blow some steam off on a curvy road just north of my home. Indian summer, low traffic, mountain area, clear blue sky, man and machine become one. Nothing could stop me. Not even a red light.

Well, at last it did.

It caused the low fuel indicator to fail, so I ran out of fuel in some rural area...
Later on the turn signal stopped working, and when the starter motor failed after filling fuel, I knew the battery was almost empty.

Thank god I had spare fuses with me. The fuse holder was also pretty melted, but managed to replace the 30A fuse. A friend of mine came along, lucky me! Of course he had jumper cables and a multimeter. He’s a Harley driver.

Can’t hardly wait to get the Greenie in the basement for winter, and start the big makeover.

An 30A circuit breaker sounds like a good idea:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These bikes are known for eating voltage rectifiers. For a while I thought mine had a short somewhere in the wiring. After a while the voltage rectifiers just go. One thing I do that seems to help is when I don't ride I keep the bike on a battery tender. Just in case. But if the battery is low and you keep cranking the starter with low voltage you fuse WILL pop. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

18 minutes ago, Rox Lemans said:

These bikes are known for eating voltage rectifiers. For a while I thought mine had a short somewhere in the wiring. After a while the voltage rectifiers just go. One thing I do that seems to help is when I don't ride I keep the bike on a battery tender. Just in case. But if the battery is low and you keep cranking the starter with low voltage you fuse WILL pop. 

I believe that happens because of the flakey Voltage reference downstream of the headlight relay. This is particularly bad on the earlier bikes where they had two relay contacts in series with the headlight current,

The Voltage the regulator sees is normally about half a Volt lower than the battery Voltage but if the bike has been sitting for a while I have seen mine as much as 1 Volt lower. So when the regulator sees a Voltage 1 Volt lower it jacks up the charging to compensate and the charge current goes up exponentially which will overheat the diodes melting the leads off.

My first experience with this I was able to remove the potting material and re-attach the leads to get about another year out of the regulator, I also took the opportunity to reverse engineer the circuit.

Finally I decided to fit a direct connected regulator, this solved the charging problem however it did add a small residual current that would flatten the battery if left over the winter.

 

[bbolesaz]

2 minutes ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

Finally I decided to fit a direct connected regulator, this solved the charging problem however it did add a small residual current that would flatten the battery if left over the winter.

however it did add a small residual current that would flatten a NEW battery in a hot summer garage in Mesa, AZ if left for 4-5 weeks.

Another data point.

Solution, ride more.

[hammershaug]

16 hours ago, Rox Lemans said:

These bikes are known for eating voltage rectifiers. For a while I thought mine had a short somewhere in the wiring. After a while the voltage rectifiers just go. One thing I do that seems to help is when I don't ride I keep the bike on a battery tender. Just in case. But if the battery is low and you keep cranking the starter with low voltage you fuse WILL pop. 

Thanks for your tip. I think my battery is in good health, but can't be 100% sure of it. Haven't cranked the motor much either. Several trips a week, and it starts right away.

[hammershaug]

16 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

I believe that happens because of the flakey Voltage reference downstream of the headlight relay. This is particularly bad on the earlier bikes where they had two relay contacts in series with the headlight current,

The Voltage the regulator sees is normally about half a Volt lower than the battery Voltage but if the bike has been sitting for a while I have seen mine as much as 1 Volt lower. So when the regulator sees a Voltage 1 Volt lower it jacks up the charging to compensate and the charge current goes up exponentially which will overheat the diodes melting the leads off.

My first experience with this I was able to remove the potting material and re-attach the leads to get about another year out of the regulator, I also took the opportunity to reverse engineer the circuit.

Finally I decided to fit a direct connected regulator, this solved the charging problem however it did add a small residual current that would flatten the battery if left over the winter.

 

This is interesting. Omron relays are on their way, so I will change them all very soon. The voltage regulator and det ignition was replaced by the former owner just before I got the bike. That's all I know for now. As soon as I have the greenie in the basement I will inspect the electronics very closely and replace bad sockets and cables. Make sure the earth has clean and stable connections. 

Is there any proven upgrade I should know of, regarding the electrical system?

[Kiwi_Roy]

The 2000 will have 2 relays in series feeding the headlight, Start relay Normally closed and Headlight relay Normally open, the Voltage reference is tapped into the wire part way along the tank so its subject to the Voltage drop I mentioned. You will see this if you measure between battery Positive and the Black wire of the regulator

The previous owner may have upgraded the regulator already.

If it still has an ancient Ducati Energia regulator definitely add a ground strap from the regulator to an engine bolt and consider a method of eliminating the Voltage drop.

On the other hand the starter wiring on these early models should never have a problem, the start relay is fed direct from a fuse.

Clean the ignition switch, and change the side stand switch, this model can get very dirty before it starts to drop out the ECU

 

 

Guzzi Wiring - Simple.pdf