Thread repair

[Bob Maynard]

On 11/8/2020 at 6:35 PM, docc said:

Seems the sump fasteners are the same M6x1.0 as the valve covers.  One of my fourteen pulled its threads out.

I have the correct "HeliCoil" ("Recoil ", made in Australia), but not the special "STI" tap to install them. Is that special tap a must?

Docc, I have the same stripped sump bolt issue, and have the helicoil kit I purchased/used for another bike. STI Bottoming tap and installation tool included. Not included is 1/4” drill bit needed.  I can send to you if you will return it to me before I need to change the oil filter in the springtime. No hurry, I need to acquire the courage and a right angle drill before I start this repair.

Bob

[docc]

8 hours ago, Bob Maynard said:

Docc, I have the same stripped sump bolt issue, and have the helicoil kit I purchased/used for another bike. STI Bottoming tap and installation tool included. Not included is 1/4” drill bit needed.  I can send to you if you will return it to me before I need to change the oil filter in the springtime. No hurry, I need to acquire the courage and a right angle drill before I start this repair.

Bob

Wow, man what a kindness! Thank you, Sir!  

This was my mostest-worstest oil change of all thirty.    Drain plug pulled its threads out in bits/ first stuck oil filter, ever/ sump fastener that holds the left side, rear aspect of the sidestand index plate pulled its threads (all in one coiled mass).

As many of you already know (or suspect), when my Sport goes down (for whatever reason), I become, er, rather afflicted .  .  .

My local (O'Reilly) auto parts store had the full M10-1.50 Stanley "Heli-Coil" kit for the drain plug. Heat gun and a friction surface (100grit paper) inside a strap wrench had the crumpled filter loose. Come first thing Monday morning, my local "Fastenal" store set me up with the M6-1.0 repair kit for the sump. It was really sketchy to get the Sport jacked high enough, then drill and (STI) tap the hole vertically upward. So, nope, standard M6 tapping will not work; must be "STI." 

I did, finally, prevail and had the Sport back in action in under 48 hours.       

The upwardly drilled hole is not perfectly aligned, but stabilized the sidestand plate and the sump does not leak.

Once again, @Bob Maynard , thank you kindly for the generous and trusting offer of help!

[Lucky Phil]

On 11/23/2020 at 11:30 AM, docc said:

Wow, man what a kindness! Thank you, Sir!  

This was my mostest-worstest oil change of all thirty.    Drain plug pulled its threads out in bits/ first stuck oil filter, ever/ sump fastener that holds the left side, rear aspect of the sidestand index plate pulled its threads (all in one coiled mass).

As many of you already know (or suspect), when my Sport goes down (for whatever reason), I become, er, rather afflicted .  .  .

My local (O'Reilly) auto parts store had the full M10-1.50 Stanley "Heli-Coil" kit for the drain plug. Heat gun and a friction surface (100grit paper) inside a strap wrench had the crumpled filter loose. Come first thing Monday morning, my local "Fastenal" store set me up with the M6-1.0 repair kit for the sump. It was really sketchy to get the Sport jacked high enough, then drill and (STI) tap the hole vertically upward. So, nope, standard M6 tapping will not work; must be "STI." 

I did, finally, prevail and had the Sport back in action in under 48 hours.       

The upwardly drilled hole is not perfectly aligned, but stabilized the sidestand plate and the sump does not leak.

Once again, @Bob Maynard , thank you kindly for the generous and trusting offer of help!

The way to drill out the old hole straight is to use a bush with the same size ID as the drill and hold it against the surface and run the drill through that. Obviously the bigger the bush OD the better but this provides you with a drilling guide perpendicular to the mounting face to use.

Ciao