A little help needed..

[Lucky Phil]

Do the horn or any of the lights work with the ignition off chuck?

Ciao

[Chuck]

4 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Do the horn or any of the lights work with the ignition off chuck?

Ciao

Nope..

[docc]

I'm thinking you are running power backward into the Ignition Switch through the NO contact of Relay#1 and it is grounding through the LOP light.

My Sport has the earlier wiring through "Light" Relay#2, like LuckyPhil is asking about. Pretty sure you will need a switched relay to bypass the Ignition Switch to power #30 contact of the #1 Starter Relay since its NO contact is continuous with the Ignition Switch.

[Chuck]

21 minutes ago, docc said:

I'm thinking you are running power backward into the Ignition Switch through the NO contact of Relay#1 and it is grounding through the LOP light.

My Sport has the earlier wiring through "Light" Relay#2, like LuckyPhil is asking about. Pretty sure you will need a switched relay to bypass the Ignition Switch to power #30 contact of the #1 Starter Relay since its NO contact is continuous with the Ignition Switch.

So, if I'm reading this correctly..I should go back to the original wiring and install another relay with the solenoid wire used as the trigger for that relay? <scratching head>

[docc]

I'm scratching my head, too, but your Scura start wiring differs from mine. Early V11 use the front two relays in conjunction. Early V11 require High Current relays in Positions #1 and #2 to function well.

Later V11 take the start function through the Ignition Switch (classic Startus Interuptus).

Why not just install a switched relay into what you have already done?

[Chuck]

5 minutes ago, docc said:

I'm scratching my head, too, but your Scura start wiring differs from mine. Early V11 use the front two relays in conjunction. Early V11 require High Current relays in Positions #1 and #2 to function well.

Later V11 take the start function through the Ignition Switch (classic Startus Interuptus).

Why not just install a switched relay into what you have already done?

Well, my thought was if I was going to have to add another relay, why not use the solenoid wire for a trigger and use some #16 aircraft wire down to the solenoid. That would give an even bigger smack upside of the head to the solenoid..

It may not be necessary though, and your method would be considerably easier. It's cranking better than it ever has, even with a depleted battery from fooling with this thing all day. What are a couple of more wires to that birds nest on top of the battery, anyway?

[LowRyter]

I need advil after reading this.

[Chuck]

8 minutes ago, Mikko said:

I just bought a new oil pressure switch from mg cycle.. I think it was $10.64... 

FWIW: I’ve seen some really weird electrical crap in the 20+ years I’ve owned my semi truck. 

Don’t discount anything...you would be amazed at the stuff I’ve found and had to deal with.

trying working backwards.. if it was working correctly before you fiddled with it.. trace your steps back. 

Sending electrical gremlin repellent mojo at ‘cha! 

As the Gold wing guy said while I was sitting in my Kermit chair with beer in hand waiting for the Kid to come rescue me..

"An Italian motorcycle with electrical issues? Who would have thought?? " 

IMG_20190801_193356953_HDR by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

[Kiwi_Roy]

Oops I answered that on the other thread, the 97A contact of the start relay is feeding the headlight relay or at least it's feeding the oil pressure light.

Before you started the 30 contact was switched so when the 97A closed there was no power on 30

Now you know how well it cranks with a direct feed you can't go back LOL

Actually it doesn't crank any better it just starts cranking when you push the button, the lag is gone because the solenoid is working how it's supposed to.

 

Usually there are several idiot lights fed from the same switched fuse the example I used in the other post shows that also the Tach gets power as well

Can you post your schematic, I will figure out the best way forward, text me a picture of it to 604 728 0966

[Chuck]

1 hour ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

Oops I answered that on the other thread, the 97A contact of the start relay is feeding the headlight relay or at least it's feeding the oil pressure light.

Before you started the 30 contact was switched so when the 97A closed there was no power on 30

Now you know how well it cranks with a direct feed you can't go back LOL

Actually it doesn't crank any better it just starts cranking when you push the button, the lag is gone because the solenoid is working how it's supposed to.

 

Usually there are several idiot lights fed from the same switched fuse the example I used in the other post shows that also the Tach gets power as well

Can you post your schematic, I will figure out the best way forward, text me a picture of it to 604 728 0966

Well duh. The schematic I've been looking at bears on resemblance to what's in the owner's manual. Just texted that to you. I misspoke (mistyped) yesterday, it isn't the oil pressure light that has been flaky all it's life, it's the generator light.

Thanks for looking at this, Roy.. I can't afford to tear any more hair out at my age..

[MartyNZ]

I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things.

https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/

KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good.

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857

Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.

[Chuck]

3 minutes ago, Mikko said:

I think I posted this before, but everyone should have a can of ACF-50 

It works on everything.. a guy I used to drive truck with at the same company turned me on to this stuff a long time ago when I was having problems with my battery cables. 

He helped me fix it, then sprayed it down and handed me the can and said “you’ll wanna keep this handy” dude was right...

This was pre interwebs, i ended up buying a case and i think I’m down to 3 cans.. that was 15+/- years ago?

Yeah, I have ACF-50.. I'm an airplane mechanic, and it's used all the time. I have a can of Caig DeOxit, too, and I know how to use it.. This little issue is beyond a squirt and a wiggle, though. I'm sure Kiwi Roy will come up with a simple solution. If not, I'll go with Doccs adda relay deal. Looking at the schematic in the back of the owner's manual, though.. I still don't see the underlying issue. Electricity certainly isn't my strong suit, but I can generally muddle my way through.

[gstallons]

Disconnect the wire @ the oil pressure switch with the key on . If the light remains on , you have a ground from this terminal to the light.

 

[Chuck]

29 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Disconnect the wire @ the oil pressure switch with the key on . If the light remains on , you have a ground from this terminal to the light.

 

The light works normally after the key is on. I would think if it's grounded, it would stay on.

[Kiwi_Roy]

3 hours ago, Chuck said:

Well duh. The schematic I've been looking at bears on resemblance to what's in the owner's manual. Just texted that to you. I misspoke (mistyped) yesterday, it isn't the oil pressure light that has been flaky all it's life, it's the generator light.

Thanks for looking at this, Roy.. I can't afford to tear any more hair out at my age..

The Generator light is fed from headlight relay (14) 87 terminal which also supplies the oil light and several other loads including the Ducati Energy Voltage regulator (if you still have that)

The headlight relay coil is fed from the 87A contact of the Start relay just above the starter (22) I think,

Cut the wire off the 87A and feed it from the ignition switch (the wire that was originally on Start relay 30 if its still there)