An easy way to lower your footpegs

[milar]

After a trip to the White Mtns. last month I decided to lower my V11 LeMans foot pegs for a bit more comfort.  My mechanic and I found a way to lower the stock foot pegs using existing mounting holes.  It lowers them about an inch.  I can gain another inch if I switch to Buell pegs.  But for now, these are significantly more comfortable. Attached are before and after pics of both sides.  The left side is a simple swap.  The right side needs a different bolt.

(Still lovin' the bike Tim!  It's my go to GT bike.)

Mike

 

 

[LowRyter]

As Gomer would say, "well gawleeee".

So the pegs are tight and shifting and braking aren't encumbered?  

[milar]

The pegs are tight.  Neither lever is encumbered.  I might adjust the shift lever down just a bit to compensate for the lower peg.

Mike  

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, milar said:

The pegs are tight.  Neither lever is encumbered.  I might adjust the shift lever down just a bit to compensate for the lower peg.

Mike  

Adjusting the shift lever down probably wont help as the lever will hit the pork chop. What you need now is this.

 

 

Ciao

[68C]

I did exactly what you have done as soon as I got the bike, that and drilled headstock to accept higher bars, a comfy bike.

[80CX100]

Wow, nice simple tip. Not only going down but a little back as well, I can see that being worthwhile.

I keep reading about the Buell pegs being a good fit,,, are they all the same or are there pegs from specific model Buells to watch for?

Tks

Kelly

[milar]

The part number are: N0520.1AD  and N0521.1AD.  Check Amazon and maybe St Paul Harley Davidson.

They are available.

 

MIke

[bridge]

Love this adjustment! I'm wondering if you could tell me the size, length, and type of different bolt needed to replace the now too short bolt on the right side. How do you ensure the shifter can move freely when the new bolt is tightened? 

Thanks, 

Brian 

[milar]

1 hour ago, bridge said:

Love this adjustment! I'm wondering if you could tell me the size, length, and type of different bolt needed to replace the now too short bolt on the right side. How do you ensure the shifter can move freely when the new bolt is tightened? 

Thanks, 

Brian 

Sorry, but I don't recall the bolt size.  You might have to do a bit of trial and error to find the right size.

There is a washer between the lever and the foot peg to prevent binding.

Mike

[R.I.P. Mikko]

I bought these: http://motobits.com/guzzi.htm solves the shifter problem too.

[docc Copied Image Location.]

[4corsa]

Awesome kit!

[KINDOY2]

On 11/8/2019 at 12:13 PM, milar said:

After a trip to the White Mtns. last month I decided to lower my V11 LeMans foot pegs for a bit more comfort.  My mechanic and I found a way to lower the stock foot pegs using existing mounting holes.  It lowers them about an inch.  I can gain another inch if I switch to Buell pegs.  But for now, these are significantly more comfortable. Attached are before and after pics of both sides.  The left side is a simple swap.  The right side needs a different bolt.

(Still lovin' the bike Tim!  It's my go to GT bike.)

Mike

 

 

Doesn't it still move the peg outboard about an inch on the brake lever side?

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, actually this would still allow your boot to be right up against the porkchop, so I'd say "no" it doesn't cause the same pigeon toe issue as something like the Buell pegs.

...although it may feel a little odd with more than half your boot on top of the pivot and bolt instead of the peg, where in the stock location it's a bit less.  Another minor consideration is that it increases the distance between the pegs and the brake & shifter, but depending on shoe size this may not be an issue.

It would be curious to see more detailed photos  and specs on how the bolt on the right side was handled.

So this might be a good modification for some and require minimal modification, and I think I now remember this being brought up as an option in the past as well that I just forgot about.

[freehme]

Same. I would love more details on what was involved, bolts required, etc...

[bridge]

I ordered a Flat Socket Head Screw A2 SS - M10 x 1.50 x 80M to replace the right side bolt. I slipped a thin nut between the peg mount and the shifter so I could tighten the peg without tightening the brake pedal.  So far, so good. 

I discovered the new arrangement also needs a 10mm (interior) x 15mm (exterior) x 20mm (length) spacer to fit the brake pedal over the bolt. 

One question -- now the rear brake doesn't seem to want to return to the "up" position. In other words, unless I slip my right toe beneath the lever, the brake pedal will remain down.  Loss of hydraulic pressure? Or did I miss a spring somewhere? I returned the brake to normal (without the peg bolted on) and it still does not return. Please advise. Eager to ride (first time this year).