fuel petcock on V11/Lemans

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

As to what kind of petcock to use... most women like the electric petcock.

[jrt]

As to what kind of petcock to use... most women like the electric petcock.

ouch.

[twhitaker]

This sounds like one of Fords better ideas. Used to be you could replace a rotor or a wheel bearing separately. Now adays the front wheel is a sealed system. In order to replace a worn rotor you have to buy a complete spindle assembly. An over $300 per side fix. Sure the wheel bearings last a long time. They are made foolproof and expensive. Darn pads are no good.

 

Guzzis better idea is to just replace the whole fuel tank assembly every 12000 miles instead of just the filter. Makes sense to me.

[al_roethlisberger]

BTW,

 

The part number I had for the last manual petcock I ordered was: 30-29105460

 

It is a direct bolt-on, and MI should know exactly what you are asking for. Again, it's a well known issue.

 

I think I paid about $45 total for the part.

 

al

[Steve G.]

Hi Al,

Thanks alot, especially for the part #. You're right, I don't want that electric piece of s--t on my bike.

Ciao, Steve G.

[callison]

Well, it may or may not be a piece of crap, but repairing the wires on the fuel valve is less than an hour's worth of work and a lot cheaper than replacing it. Do remove it from the tank it you decide to repair it though, soldering in the presence of gasoline is definitely NOT recommended. Remove the petcock from the tank, pull the crummy chrome cap off, dig into the epoxy filler with a small blade or something freeing the terminals and solder the wires on again. Use some silicone rubber on the assembly around the wires for instulation and put it all back to together.

 

The filler drain line and the tank vent can be Tee'd (or Y'ed) together as mentioned further up in the posts. They've been that way on my Sport 1100i for four years.

[TX REDNECK (R.I.P.)]

$ 20 USD at MPH for a manual petcock. How come you guys pay so much for stuff out west?

[al_roethlisberger]

I have no idea, that's just the price I paid.

 

 

Great to hear it's a better price in Houston I say give 'em a call, and see if they have it in stock

[al_roethlisberger]

BTW, since you were asking what one looked like, here is a photo of one of the manual petcocks on my tank:

[docc]

I've just replaced my 'electric cock' with the manual one TX sent me. I don't know why I couldn't line it up before , it just dropped right in this time.

 

It looks like I can do with about 3 inches less fuel line to the pump. This will get the route well away from the cylinder fins. How important is it to have the steel braid on the line? Or can I just use some 1/2 " ID fuel line to the pump?

[al_roethlisberger]

You don't need the steel braided line, but I would get some "heavy duty" line just to be on the safe side. But yes, good fuel line would work fine, after all it's not pressurized.

 

In my past project I used some XRP "push on" hose. I can't recall, but I believe I used the AN -6 size, and that was about perfect. The hose can stand riduculously high pressure and temperature, and is damned tough(but not terribly flexible, it's only drawback... oh and it's BLUE )

 

Other options include hoses from Earls, XRP, etc... that have the braid(nylon or steel) bonded to the surface, but you'll need to heat shrink the ends(like the OEM hose) to control the fraying at the ends.

 

I would cover it with heat-shield while you are at it though... why not ... after all you have the hose off, and the aluminized heat shielding sleeving is relatively cheap from Summit Racing(~$20??), or your local "speed shop".

 

In fact, I think I may have a bunch of the heat-shielding left over(used but in fine shape) in a box if you want some. I could even throw in some of the hose I mentioned, since I don't need it anymore. Send me your address and I'll drop them in the mail for you, and you can see if they fit your needs.

 

al

[docc]

So I see the line is really 7/16" . I wrapped it in aluminized duct tape ( not the sticky grey stuff) for now . It makes a much straighter shot to the pump at 9" instead of the 12" line that angled down and along the base of the cylinder.

[jrt]

Dammit, you guys are going to make me do this now, aren't you.

Sheesh, I got enough projects, then the Jones' come up with some widget and now I gotta keep up with...

[emry]

And while your at it don't forget the Ohlins like us Scura owners so you can have all the fiddlly bits too. , and that cool tail section that Paul makes, and dual plug heads, and HC pistons, and that x10 cam, and the CF alt cover and fairing to match. Wait that my wish list, at least after the Ohlins bits, sorry.

 

Speaking of petcocks, TX is right, my wife does like her electric better. Oh well less work for me to do.

[jrt]

Guess ya' better stock up on batteries, then.

And who needs carbon fiber...I'm going for the raw, agressive look...of tassels.

J