Crash damage

[po18guy]

It's Covid-mania! Actually, if the forks are OK, there is very little chance of frame damage.

[Lucky Phil]

6 minutes ago, po18guy said:

It's Covid-mania! Actually, if the forks are OK, there is very little chance of frame damage.

True....ish:)

Ciao

[Zooter]

The front mudguard is messed up as is the fairing and mounting struts so it's all cockeyed everywhere. Makes eyeballing the forks for OKness not so confident. They seemed ok but unsure.

[po18guy]

Well, talk 'em down and then decide if the risk is worth it.

[Zooter]

7 hours ago, gstallons said:

Get the front fork / wheel in a  straight ahead position and secure it . Get innovative ! You are using the tubes to set front/rear tire tracking . You are using the swingarm adjusting screws to center the front wheel between the light tubes . When you get things like you want it , there will be 0 preload on the swingarm pivot pins . After you do this , it will be SO easy !

I am gathering this would be to put the back wheel behind the front wheel but not do anything about compass point of the back wheel. Or I don't understand at all.

[Zooter]

4 minutes ago, po18guy said:

Well, talk 'em down and then decide if the risk is worth it.

The price at the moment is loony toons. I am risk averse so only if I can be sure of what is there can I try to negotiate. All once I get out from under the lurg. 

[Zooter]

I think if the wheelbase checks and the wheels line up it can't be too bad provided of course that the case mounts aren't cracked.

What's a beat to hell low milage with oddball bikini fairing even worth running down the road nice and straight?

[stewgnu]

What’s the asking £££?

[Zooter]

1 hour ago, stewgnu said:

What’s the asking £££?

Doesn'r really matter. They want fully half of what a higher milage nice one would sell for. Maybe all the bits parted out are worth that but it's a pretty small market for those bits in NZ.

No way in hell I could pretty it up back to half as nice as it was without taking a bath. Which is why it's a write off.

A functional rat isn't worth too much either, except it might work for me in these dark days.

Parts to make it legal and functional:

Brake hose.

Sort out side stand mess with interrupt switch presently at weird angle 

Gear shifter goneburger.

2x mirrors aftermarket handlebar.

4x indicators

Front guard.

Not sure about sheered off steering stop on lower fork branch.

Assumes I can straighten up headlight and probably have to tweak the rear rack if not the rear subframe to pass inspection.

Back plastic is intact!

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, Zooter said:

Doesn'r really matter. They want fully half of what a higher milage nice one would sell for. Maybe all the bits parted out are worth that but it's a pretty small market for those bits in NZ.

No way in hell I could pretty it up back to half as nice as it was without taking a bath. Which is why it's a write off.

A functional rat isn't worth too much either, except it might work for me in these dark days.

Parts to make it legal and functional:

Brake hose.

Sort out side stand mess with interrupt switch presently at weird angle 

Gear shifter goneburger.

2x mirrors aftermarket handlebar.

4x indicators

Front guard.

Not sure about sheered off steering stop on lower fork branch.

Assumes I can straighten up headlight and probably have to tweak the rear rack if not the rear subframe to pass inspection.

Back plastic is intact!

I'll guess and say its sheared the top off one of the stops? in which case you can get it built up with weld and reshaped again. See my latest V11 daytona post with regards to the stops.

Ciao

[Zooter]

10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I'll guess and say its sheared the top off one of the stops? in which case you can get it built up with weld and reshaped again. See my latest V11 daytona post with regards to the stops.

Ciao

Aluminium welders we got. The damage to the stop isn't catastrophic of itself but it does indicate some twisting was applied.

I think I know how I can check for straight ahead steering.

My chock is a braced assemblage of plywood scraps. I own a builder's square, which was used to make the scraps but I will have to run it over the chock because I am not OCD enough to need a chock to be 100% square.

I can snap a chalk line on the floor and place the 100% square chock across it. Push bike into chock. It will probably skate the chock some but doesn't matter because skating the front end will be the easiest way to make the back wheel straight up and down.

Skate it and roll it around until chock is squared with chalk line and back wheel vertical. String line the back wheel to see where it is really pointing if it isn't obviously fubar. Hopefully fully parallel with the original chalk line on the floor.

If anyone would mind doing similar it would be great to see what tolerance is out there rolling around.

Thinking some more on laser aligning back with the front, as far as I can tell, tells you the back wheel is pointed forward on a line through an assumed centre of the front wheel. However, the front wheel direction at the same point in time is only assumed dead ahead and vertical. That's fine if you are comfortable with the straightness of the steering axis in the first place.

If the steering were slightly cockeyed and you make the front wheel vertical by turning it slightly you wouldn't know it was canting the rear slightly unless you checked.

So a ''laser swingarm alignment check'' done with two vertical wheels would show a twist in the frame as a shift by the amount the front has swiveled the rear of the brake disc across the centre line. But shuttling the rear end over wouldn't fix the twist.

What am I missing?