Crankshaft Removal

[maxv11]

Here is the crank. Again, I am positive this can be repaired but...I went another route. 

 

[antmanbee]

Even with a new/used engine, I would advise replacing the oil cooler and possibly the hoses because they will be full of debris and difficult to flush.

Hard to be confident that they are completely clean.

[gstallons]

You can't be too clean !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pete roper]

I've handed the baton of plate production over to 'Pressureangle', another forum member here.

It is far easier and cheaper for them to be manufactured closer to their main market, a donation for every plate sold is pledged to Medicienes sans frontiers. My business has moved to principally being with CARC bikes and I hope to hand that on and retire soon but as far as I know plates are still available.

A plate will prevent this happening again.

 

[po18guy]

5 hours ago, maxv11 said:

Thanks mate, so I actually found a like new motor on eBay. 2004 Ballabio with only 3k on it! I purchased that last night and it will be shipped here. I plan to part out the current motor or sell it as a whole if anyone is interested. I will put up a listing in the Classifieds. Shoot me a PM if interested!

Anyways...Below are pics of the damage. I am sure this could be repaired as I have dealt with this on other makes/models but honestly I wanted to do the swap. Some may disagree but it is what is best for my situation at this time. If I don't part out or sell this engine I'll keep it as a back up and have the crank rebuilt and possibly build up the motor into something sweet! 

 

Pete, do you still offer your plates? I feel I am inclined to install one on the new motor Thanks! 

Crap! I was just searching for that to post here - but it's gone! Who do you suppose…? 3877 miles IIRC. Far cheaper than a rebuild. For anyone who needs them, I did find this crank and rods from a Cafe Sport for $300 and change in Kali.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Crankshaft-Connecting-Rods-Engine-Parts/324082671074?hash=item4b74d51de2:g:AmkAAOSw8iJeU2s5

[gstallons]

This looks like a good deal . I would have a trusty machine shop inspect EVERYTHING before going together . I would use new rod bearings . Some use new rod bolts . Look at the main bearings too . When you reassemble , blow everything out w/air and use Lubriplate white grease when you go together . Keep the cam lifters indexed when you go back together and use a camshaft grease when you go together .

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, antmanbee said:

Even with a new/used engine, I would advise replacing the oil cooler and possibly the hoses because they will be full of debris and difficult to flush.

Hard to be confident that they are completely clean.

Well you can buy a new cooler for around  $100 on ebay so its not a huge expense but I dont think cooler contamination is a realistic worry. The debris would need to pass the pickup screen, the oil pump,the oil filter to get to the cooler and the cooler thermostat would need to be open for oil to be getting into it anyway. I'd flush it of course but I dont think its an issue. I'd spend more time on the oil filter housing support with the passages for the oil cooler thermostat and the pressure regulating valve. There's a lot of passages and a valve assembly in that lot.

Ciao

[maxv11]

2 hours ago, po18guy said:

Crap! I was just searching for that to post here - but it's gone! Who do you suppose…? 3877 miles IIRC. Far cheaper than a rebuild. For anyone who needs them, I did find this crank and rods from a Cafe Sport for $300 and change in Kali.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Crankshaft-Connecting-Rods-Engine-Parts/324082671074?hash=item4b74d51de2:g:AmkAAOSw8iJeU2s5

Yup, I got that one  Now I am dealing with shipping it. Major PITA! 

[Lucky Phil]

Good solution. Now you just need new rod bolts and bearings. 

Ciao

[docc]

17 hours ago, pete roper said:

The usual reason for these engines running their big ends is oil pick up exposure during hard acceleration. There is a fix for that.

 

[maxv11]

2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Good solution. Now you just need new rod bolts and bearings. 

Ciao

I got a new/used motor off eBay, not that crank. That is a pretty good deal though! 

[Lucky Phil]

3 minutes ago, maxv11 said:

I got a new/used motor off eBay, not that crank. That is a pretty good deal though! 

Hmmmm, at least when you buy a crank you can see what you are getting. Hope its not a frying pan to fire deal for you.

Ciao

[maxv11]

12 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

Hmmmm, at least when you buy a crank you can see what you are getting. Hope its not a frying pan to fire deal for you.

Ciao

Haha, lets hope not! I have purchased a lot of motors online so hoping this goes just as smooth. I'll still go through this motor as much as possible before tossing up onto the bike. 

[po18guy]

Being a plain bearing motor, the bikes need a mercury switch to cut ignition if on their sides - but that would be just another nightmare for diagnostics. Went down twice in the 70s on my TX650 Yamaha. In one case, the bike was about 45º from being upside down in a ditch, but still idling. But since it is a roller bearing motor, it was not a huge deal. Went on to ride it another 30K or so. 

[Lucky Phil]

2 hours ago, po18guy said:

Being a plain bearing motor, the bikes need a mercury switch to cut ignition if on their sides - but that would be just another nightmare for diagnostics. Went down twice in the 70s on my TX650 Yamaha. In one case, the bike was about 45º from being upside down in a ditch, but still idling. But since it is a roller bearing motor, it was not a huge deal. Went on to ride it another 30K or so. 

Yes carburettor bikes generally die on their side as the float bowl floods the engine but injected still keep running if the pump pickup is still covered.

Ciao