Grrrreenie - the long and whining roar

[hammershaug]

7 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

The fuel tap appears to be black/yellow and black. The tap is wired to the F8 fuse so if you have a meter you can trace it back to there.
Ciao

Thanks, I will do that. I no longer have an electric petcock, so no need for it. If it’s the wiring to the fuel level sensor, I can trace it to the 12-way AMP-connector in the instrument panel, right?


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[Lucky Phil]

1 minute ago, hammershaug said:

Thanks, I will do that. I no longer have a electric petcock, so no need for it. If it’s the wiring to the fuel level sensor, I can trace it to the 12-way AMP-connector in the instrument panel, right?


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Yep that also. See my fuel tap mod thread.

Ciao

[hammershaug]

Did someone say they didn't like bar end mirrors?


They give the absolute best view behind you but they do add to the width.
 

I absolutely love those mirrors
Norton looks gorgeous!


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[ScuRoo]

Life is no dress rehearsal.
 

We only get one shot at it - may as well enjoy the ride.

Looking forward to your Greenie unveiling...

[hammershaug]

 

Gear selector side cover remounted. New sealing and the reinforced pawl spring from @Chuck and @Scud is in place. Summer is just around the corner.

 

 

More from the service is posted in the «Re-engineering the Shift Spring»-thread:

 

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20201-re-engineering-the-shift-spring/&do=findComment&comment=251975

[hammershaug]

Tomorrow I hope to get the rear wheel back on. Roller bearing seems okay. Cleaning and greasing the wheel spindle, roller bearing and spacers. Changing the gear oil. Other things to consider?
 

What I have done so far:

1. Oil Pan is glass bead blasted, painted and back in place. New gasket, oil filter, and bolts.
2. New rear tyre. Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT.
3. New NGK spark plugs.
4. All relays are replaced with Omrons. Relay block is cleaned with electro cleaner.
5. The spliced and old breather pipe from crankcase are replaced.
6. The rusty battery holder is re-mounted after sanding and painting.
7. Burned 30A fuse/fuse-holder replaced with Tyco 30A breaker.
8. The unoriginal and stiff intake rubbers are replaced.
9. Fuel filter and fuel hoses are replaced.
10. Throttle bodies are cleaned and re-mounted. Partly cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner with kerosene and manually with brake cleaner. 
11. The defective electric petcock is replaced with a manual type.
12. External ground (1,5mm2) to voltage regulator is replaced with new (10mm2/7 AWG)
13. New 5AWG/16mm2 wire to starter motor.
14. Gear selector return spring is replaced. Sealing around the gear selector shaft and all bolts is replaced as well.
15. Those yellow and loose bullet connectors from stator is removed. Wires I as oldered and put inside a glue lined heat shrink tube. Ready for WW3.

 

Still haven't decided about air filter box vs. new, big K&N's.

[Tomchri]

It's easier to move the driveshaft around when you put grease in the u joints  . Have you checked that the driveshaft is lined correctly ?

 Cheers tom.

[hammershaug]

Thanks for the reminder, Tom.

There’s two marks with white paint(from factory?) indicating it’s lined up. How could I know for sure?

I guess I need an adjustable angle grease gun to access the front u-joint? Found this post from [mention]GuzziEagle [/mention]and believe it’s still relevant:


https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17052-greasing-front-u-joint-revisited/&do=findComment&comment=183442


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[Lucky Phil]

35 minutes ago, hammershaug said:

Thanks for the reminder, Tom.

There’s two marks with white paint(from factory?) indicating it’s lined up. How could I know for sure?

I guess I need an adjustable angle grease gun to access the front u-joint? Found this post from [mention]GuzziEagle [/mention]and believe it’s still relevant:


https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17052-greasing-front-u-joint-revisited/&do=findComment&comment=183442


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Line up the uni joints. It's not some magical factory only special scenario.

Ciao

[hammershaug]

I've just watched both videos, Phil. I understand the basics about getting the same speed on input and output but have no idea about relating this to actual adjustments on the Greenie. I guess I'm dumb.

EDIT

Second thought: Correct line-up = the front cross and rear cross are in the same position?

EDIT2

@Baldini confirms my second thought. There is so much information and knowledge in here, fragmented bits of information;)

 

 

 

[Lucky Phil]

35 minutes ago, hammershaug said:

I've just watched both videos, Phil. I understand the basics about getting the same speed on input and output but have no idea about relating this to actual adjustments on the Greenie. I guess I'm dumb.

EDIT

Second thought: Correct line-up = the front cross and rear cross are in the same position?

EDIT2

@Baldini confirms my second thought. There is som much information and knowledge in here, fragmented bits of information;)

 

 

 

Yep its all about the uni being in the correct plane.Mark a centre line along both shafts and line up the sliding joint.

Ciao

[hammershaug]

 

Hmmm... I really have to reconsider my 20-year-old Sachs shock. The wheel is off so it’s the right time.

I have no idea if Norwegian dealers have the right shock in stock - and I don’t know what to look for. Wilbers?

[Tomchri]

If it's not leaking, measure the sag, and on the road,, SHE will tell you things tru riding, you have the aerea to it    Yes I do like the Øhlins suspension on my Corsa,  but still not ready for Wilbers on my Greenie. Just my own idea.   Always nice to upgrade, Morten Magers Wilber business  in Konsmo is taken care of by his son, I heard. Have some experience with Wilbers,, exelent product for the money.

Cheers tom.

[hammershaug]

For the first time in the history of mankind, the grease nipple on the inner shaft u-joint on a V11 is captured.

 

Lumatic for the lunatic... 

 

[Tomchri]

Well done,  another thing of the list. And you made sure the shaft is tight, and now play on the axle ? 

Cheers tom