docc Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 9 minutes ago, Grim said: Honestly, my coils look incredibly crappy, covered in mud and stuff. I guess the resistance was good so I left it at that, I have often dreamt of sticking some nice shiny coils on it..😌 Worth lifting those boots and seeing what is underneath. Mine was not only that corroded, but the metal connector had broken in two. Have I asked you, lately, what relay you're running in Position #5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 1 minute ago, docc said: Worth lifting those boots and seeing what is underneath. Mine was not only that corroded, but the metal connector had broken in two. Have I asked you, lately, what relay you're running in Position #5? I found some Panasonic CM1-R-12V That seemed to for the bill. I see Omons might be available from China now.   Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 7 minutes ago, Grim said: I found some Panasonic CM1-R-12V That seemed to for the bill. I see Omons might be available from China now.    Ah, yeah, I remember now. Running (even a good quality) 20 amp relay in a circuit pulling 22.5 amps can become an issue. The G8HE OMRON is 35 amps NO, IIRC. I realize you're looking for something specific to the left cylinder, but a general problem with the Fuel Injection/Ignition system could be suspect as well. Perhaps just swapping Rely #5 for #4 (the ECU real is pretty understressed) is worth a try and easy. Also, there are some nefarious spade connectors beneath the fuse block that feed the FI/Ignition through fuses #1 and #2: (The fuse block will just pry up out of the rubber mounts without messing with the fasteners.) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 Is this the code for the Omrons? G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 It seems they are on eBay now, they were not available last year when I looked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 55 minutes ago, Grim said: Is this the code for the Omrons? G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 It seems they are on eBay now, they were not available last year when I looked. Correct. True High Current micro-ISO relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 1 hour ago, docc said: Correct. True High Current micro-ISO relays. It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe. High Current Relays 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 33 minutes ago, po18guy said: It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe. High Current Relays Yeah, like, "Hey, hey, bud - gotch'yer relays rat'chere. Need a sprang? You needs a sprang. Gotcha covered, bud . . ." 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 The sad question is whether a Chrysler part will make a Guzzi more reliable... EDIT: OK, look at this: Omron-labelled relays from China marked "MADE IN USA" eBay item 123718429330 Â Therefore, disregard the above. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 12 hours ago, po18guy said: It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe. High Current Relays I'll go out on a limb and call this legitimate. I spent time on Omron's website, they do make these but you can only have them if you're an OEM automotive concern- probably at least a tier 1 supplier. So if I was that and could order them, I would, since they have a purchasing requirement but no apparent limitation on subsequent usage. They probably have a minimum order quantity of 500 or something. Oh and West Bloomfield is in the heart of Mopar territory. one last point, it's not 5/$30, it's *each*. bleah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 Just a heads up.  Do not use a locknut on your adjustment rod....🙄 So I put this locknut on last time because I didn't trust the plastic nut not to move, but I just got everything in sync, left the bit running and as I held the plastic but in place and tightened my little locknut, I watched the sync go off by one vacuum inch. I guess it must squeez the nylon washer and pull the rod through a touch. Jeez.  I did go over the intake rubbers again and do the valves yet again (using my tiny German 3.5mm spanner). Well even with everything synced I need air screws out half a turn to make it idle with Meinhof's map, I didn't use the wacky sounding valve clearances though .003 for both?! My idle still ends up at about 590mv. But, the left is not missing, which is a win I'm my book! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 True the "Dave Richardson" Lock Nut makes the synch knob a little more fiddly. It's much like holding the valve adjustment while cinching that lock nut. I do it while watching the balance tool to make sure it doesn't change. There is probably nothing wrong with using a little air bypass to get your outcome. Sounds like a success to me! And you are not the first to express some concern over the unusually loose valve lash listed . . . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 18 hours ago, Grim said: Just a heads up. Well even with everything synced I need air screws out half a turn to make it idle with Meinhof's map, I didn't use the wacky sounding valve clearances though .003 for both?! My idle still ends up at about 590mv. But, the left is not missing, which is a win I'm my book! I have learned that a full turn is a good basic setting. Works fine in my case - but the ECU has an unreadable sticker over the OEM label, so was probably re-flashed, but how or by whom I cannot say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 18 hours ago, Pressureangle said: I'll go out on a limb and call this legitimate. I spent time on Omron's website, they do make these but you can only have them if you're an OEM automotive concern- probably at least a tier 1 supplier. So if I was that and could order them, I would, since they have a purchasing requirement but no apparent limitation on subsequent usage. They probably have a minimum order quantity of 500 or something. Oh and West Bloomfield is in the heart of Mopar territory. one last point, it's not 5/$30, it's *each*. bleah There may be hope. From the listing, which is a little confusing, but he is selling lots of 5 for some reason (heh heh...) Quote  Lot of 5 PCS Mopar/Ormon G8HE-1C7T-R1-DC12 High Current Relay Dodge Chrysler Jeep Cherokee Ram 12 VDC 40 A G8HE1C7TR1DC12 New. Unused Surplus. No package. From bulk package. As seen on pictures. Actual item on pictures. Quantity: Lot of 5 PCS   1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 3 hours ago, po18guy said: There may be hope. From the listing, which is a little confusing, but he is selling lots of 5 for some reason (heh heh...) Â Good eye, or I'm going senile. I guess I'll have to stock a few. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 7 hours ago, Pressureangle said: Good eye, or I'm going senile. I guess I'll have to stock a few. buy quick before Mopar fires the seller for lunchboxing those relays! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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