gstallons Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 Sacrificial ? Just what are you doin' out there in that shop ?
aermacchi250 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Posted June 10, 2020 It's totally up to you.I'd hate to have you tear apart your rear drive on my account. I ordered some extreme pressure grease and it won't be here until next week anyway. I really do appreciate the help i'm getting here. Mike Crosby
Chuck Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 Quote I really do appreciate the help i'm getting here. It's the best place in the world to be if you are wrenching on a V11S.. Quote
docc Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 4 hours ago, gstallons said: Sacrificial ? Just what are you doin' out there in that shop ? Eh, The la-BOR-a-tory . . . 2
docc Posted June 11, 2020 Posted June 11, 2020 @aermacchi250, I pulled the flange from this drive and it comes out with the crown gear. Then you can simply take the spacer out and the inside of the washer is in full view through the inner seal. The washer is lying against the outer needle bearing and race, but is not captured. Yet, it can only be lifted about a cm before contacting the inner seal which is captured by the inner bearing. Plenty of access to tap it back straight, I suppose. Be careful replacing the flange as to not damage or pinch the big O-ring.
aermacchi250 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Posted June 11, 2020 Does the washer rest against something underneath the needle Bearing outer race,as the washer is still captive and did not fall out after i removed the Needle bearing outer race.I'd hate to tap on it if it's against Aluminum. With my Luck i'll crack the Case.
docc Posted June 11, 2020 Posted June 11, 2020 The outer perimeter of the washer is evidently resting against the outside of the case where the race you split is seated. FWIW, this spacer is also tight. I couldn't center it with finger pressure, but had to drift it to the center.
aermacchi250 Posted June 11, 2020 Author Posted June 11, 2020 Thank you Docc.I'll take a better look at it tomorrow.Since it doesn't rotate all that far i think it may be ok Thank you so much again for all your Help and Effort you're putting into my question.I truly Appreciate it. Mike 1
MartyNZ Posted June 11, 2020 Posted June 11, 2020 There are pictures of a bevel box in bits here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15908-rear-drive-seal/&do=findComment&comment=231729 1
docc Posted June 11, 2020 Posted June 11, 2020 8 hours ago, MartyNZ said: There are pictures of a bevel box in bits here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15908-rear-drive-seal/&do=findComment&comment=231729 Perfect, Marty! That is such excellent documentation of the inside of the bevel box! Here is what I saw lifting out the flange /crown gear and setting the spacer aside: It is very telling how much corrosion can occur on the inside of the washer and around the spacer. The ruined reardrive I have is testimony that this infiltration, through the outboard needle cage, can extend to the nose of the crown wheel and ruin the sealing surface. Keep those outboard needle bearings, inner race, and washers well greased at every tire change, y'all!:
andy york Posted June 11, 2020 Posted June 11, 2020 I don't know about your "luck" with seals but mine is not good. Having done this a few times I always have a set of seals. If it is a first time project I order 2 of every seal in there. Just seems to be the prudent thing to do.... Just in case Murphy rears his head And be sure to lift the guts out from each side at the same time 2
MartyNZ Posted June 12, 2020 Posted June 12, 2020 I see that you have already ordered the bearing set, but for anyone else thinking of checking their own RH side bearing, it is made up of standard parts that may be cheaper to buy from your local bearing shop. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19514-encyclopedia-of-compatible-parts/&do=findComment&comment=216691 1
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