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Posted

That red plate is my original. I switched my pair to grey ones.742-DC92-C-FF74-4995-9551-A41-EFCBA5-CF2

They should be able to provide a perfect set of files scanning my original red plates. 
 

Am I missing something?

Posted

If you intent to remove the recesses on the back of the plate and move them to the front for cosmetical reasons, please also consider the fairly large radiusses used on this fairly stressed part. If you design the recess on the front side just to be milled out with an e.g. 10mm mill on a CNC lathe, the very small internal radius in the recess may still cause cracking, even though the design is strong enough for the general loads.

Short version: when reproducing a casted part by CNC process, seriously consider the radiusses. 

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Posted

You are correct, grain structure's are different for cast, cnc, forged etc. They did say they have the ability to stress analyze, I'm not entirely sure how. Granted, it won't be easy and maybe it's a step too deep into exotica because the top section of the plate would have to come out to give it that "flat daytona" look.  Lets see what they have to say. Certainly would fit the bill as a one off custom piece.

Posted

IMG-V10-Centauro-Superleggera-06.jpg

Looking at this https://carsbikes.com/bikes/moto-guzzi-v10-centauro-superleggera-by-classicco-15213/ you can see how they solved the frame plate issue.  I have some better ideas now to get what I want.

When they scan these plates, I am going to have them add material to the top where it angles back in the top section. Then I can have that flat surface to do the recessed areas around the bolts and get my hole. Fill in that recess just below the tang.

Posted

That is one way to look at it, however I personally quite like the swept back look. You could also have whoever translates the scan into a CNC program, ensure there is a fairly large radius in the back of the cutouts, e.g. 1/3 of the ID. That way the shape you take out on the front is about the same as the shape you will fill in on the back, where the cutouts are present in the original cast item.

When you also use a metal which is at least as strong as the cast item you will be fine.

  • Like 1
Posted

 Allite Super Magnesium is my first choice. I still have no idea what it’ll cost to make a set. I know I’m already $600 into it. These V11’s allegedly weigh 560+/-lbs wet.

I don’t foresee a lot of weight being lost, Allite claims it weighs 30% less then Aluminium. Now that I have my set of mag valve covers, I can see about possibly getting the rear & front subframes made out of mag. All depends on how these plates go... 

Posted

I also wanted to incorporate some cool period aftermarket items. Seeing as how those are becoming a rarity nowadays, I’ve been busy scrounging around the internet looking for neat stuff. 
 

I have those head guards from Rossopuro and just yesterday I ordered a “Special Reaction Rod” from Stucchi. I had plans of doing something out of crazy unobtainaum but I think this will be just as cool in the end.

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Posted

You've gone practically full custom. But I like where you're going with it. 🤘😎

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Posted

Thanks for the link @Mikko That's quite a build, way beyond my skill level or cash

Really interesting to see what you're doing and how it progresses

The Marchal Lamp on the first page, they are just so cool always been a favourate of mine. Rest of the work looks stunning, be interesting to see how it all progresses

 

  • Like 1
Posted

My Forks are going to Holland! Isn't that viert?  The big upgrade is now in effect. They use the Forks as a template to build the new ones. The internals will be Mupo CSP30-R‘s 

This old girl is going to have the best front end currently available to the general public!

Massive front end diet planned with these Forks, Magnesium Triple Clamps, Sicom Rotors and OZ Racing Wheel. 

579292-F6-8-DAA-4-A3-A-B153-CED482118902

 

  • Like 5
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/22/2021 at 11:18 AM, pete roper said:

Just a heads up on those earlier 'Pork Chops'/side plates. They changed the design for more than just cosmetic reasons. The early ones are much, much more prone to cracking, even a bad drop at a standstill can do damage that may not be immediately visible but severely weakens them. It's worth doing a penetrant die test before fitting to check their integrity.

Remember, it's those plates that hold the swingarm on. If one breaks the other one will too and the back of the bike falls off!

 

On 5/24/2021 at 7:18 AM, Mikko said:

 Allite Super Magnesium is my first choice. I still have no idea what it’ll cost to make a set. I know I’m already $600 into it. These V11’s allegedly weigh 560+/-lbs wet.

I don’t foresee a lot of weight being lost, Allite claims it weighs 30% less then Aluminium. Now that I have my set of mag valve covers, I can see about possibly getting the rear & front subframes made out of mag. All depends on how these plates go... 

Allite Super Magnesium "weighing 30% less than aluminum by volume and being both stiffer and stronger pound for pound". This is a misleading claim. Allite's website states their alloy strength is greater than steel (not in this universe) but they don't give numbers. 

Be careful not to slip in the snake oil - this alloy is likely to be weaker than the aluminum alloy in the factory side plates. To get equivalent strength you need to make magnesium alloy side plates thicker/bulkier to make up for the weaker material.

Allite claim "shock absorbing properties" but this means it is more elastic (lower Young's modulus). This means a more floppy swing arm mount, unless made thicker/bulkier.

You should listen to Pete, and also look at the material properties.

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  • 5 months later...
Posted

Not much to update really. Forks are nearly finished. Paul was nice enough to send me a teaser pic which I now share with y’all…

084-E3-B6-A-92-C6-418-D-A76-C-ECEBCCBDD8
 

Makes me hungry for some Carbonara 

  • Like 5
Posted
On 6/13/2021 at 1:33 AM, MartyNZ said:

Be careful not to slip in the snake oil - this alloy is likely to be weaker than the aluminum alloy in the factory side plates. To get equivalent strength you need to make magnesium alloy side plates thicker/bulkier to make up for the weaker material.

I’ve put the side plate project on indefinite hold…while certainly titillating and über exotic, I need to focus on the core build items. I am still sorting out the engine and waiting to hear back on the transmission rebuilding (for increased reliability commensurate with the horsepower increase) She ain’t gonna be just a Show Pony…

I have the files and eventually I will come up with something. Just right now, I have several irons in the fire and coordinating all this stuff internationally is cumbersome at best.

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...

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