No charge , broken stator wire

[docc]

Here is ElectroSport's solution to heat fragility and strain relief for these long known failure points on the V11 stator ($154.00US). I'll be swapping this new unit onto the Sport and re-engineering the old stator's connections as a spare . . .

[R.I.P. Mikko]

Rope? That will be broken down and of no use fairly quickly. I still suggest a high temperature potting epoxy. Even consumer grade stuff will be more then sufficient. 
 

If you look at some high dollar German tools like Festool, you’ll see they incorporate UV protection and everything is dunked in potting epoxy. 
 

I found a suitable and readily available product.

MG Chemicals 832HT  High Temperature Epoxy

When I get to addressing this situation, I will be using this exact stuff.

[docc]

Nope, not "rope." At first, I thought the tie to be Nylon cord, but it is not. It is wire covered in braided heat shielding impregnated with what appears to be an epoxy. As are the heat shield sleeves over the wire leads themselves which are connected directly to the windings' output rather than the original method of both soldered separately into eyelets mounted to a fragile extension much like the strain relief mount which had a simple Zip-tie (seen broken in this view):

[R.I.P. Mikko]

Sounds like Orc mischief to me....

[al_roethlisberger]

On 7/27/2020 at 4:48 PM, docc said:

These “450 watt” units are apparently identical. In the thread about my 2009 stator failure, Greg Field commented on this. I can link that thread later when I get home...

 

On 7/27/2020 at 6:19 PM, docc said:

Here is the link to Greg Field's comment on the 450 watt unit. He would know, IMO:

 

 

So I wonder if Greg was referring to this whole kit below or just the "upgraded" stator?

The kit below looks like it may be physically larger, see what appears to be a spacer for the replacement rotor that itself looks thicker??  Is it?

Maybe we should ask Todd at Guzzi Tech if curious.

 

https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/electronics/products/eme-h-o-charging-system-upgrade

 

 

Quote

EME High Output Charging Upgrade

 

We're a EME dealer. Check with us for special pricing on any EME offering; Info at GuzziTech.com

Shown below. Increases amperage by 80% over stock systems

Stable 14.2 Voltage production under all load conditions

Electronic voltage regulator / rectifier combination remotely mounted for increased cooling and reliability, replaces diode board rectifier

High-tech permanent magnet rotor will never overheat and short out

Brushless design eliminates worn out slip rings & brushes

Eliminates "burnt out warning light" no-charge condition of Bosch systems

Will retrofit most two wire Moto Guzzi crank mounted charging systems 1973-2011, bolts on, plug and play. Designed and manufactured to modern OEM specifications

Modern charging technology updates Moto Guzzi’s original under-performing 20 amp (max) alternator and rectifier

The critically important higher amperage output of this system at lower engine RPMs allows lighting, heating and other accessories to be used without discharging the battery or overloading the charging system

The EnDuraLast System produces 20 amps at 2000 RPM!

The BEST and FINAL improvement to your charging system!

 

Power Rating: 450 Watts @ 14 Volts = 32 Amps

 

[docc]

Good questions. I wonder what "under-performing 20 amp max" unit they are referring to. My Workshop Manual graphs the factory unit showing 20 amps at 2,000 RPM and up from there.

Looks to be the same stator connections with the dubious white Zip-tie for strain relief. 

[docc]

After riding the repaired stator about 300 miles/~500km, it continues to charge at 14.2-143 volts even down to 1500 rpm. However, the battery discharges to about 50% (just over 12.5 volts) sitting overnight unless I open the 30 amp circuit breaker (like removing the 30 amp regulator fuse).

Thinking the stator must be shorted, or poorly repaired, I disconnected the yellow output wires, but the discharge persists unless I unplug the regulator's red output connection.

I am thinking the regulator got damaged in the stator failure?   Not sure how to test those nefarious diodes . . . (?)

[Kiwi_Roy]

The original Ducati Energias drew about 15 milliamps from the reference circuit (headlight) but when the key is off it doesn't draw anything.

My aftermarket direct connect regulator from Electrosport drew 0.3 milliamps all the time On or Off

It should not be possible to get current back flowing from the battery to the yellow wires.

 

[docc]

9 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

The original Ducati Energias drew about 15 milliamps from the reference circuit (headlight) but when the key is off it doesn't draw anything.

My aftermarket direct connect regulator from Electrosport drew 0.3 milliamps all the time On or Off

Thanks, Kiwi_Roy! This is an OEM regulator. I have a replacement on hand to install with the new stator. 

 

[gstallons]

 

[gstallons]

One of the simpler videos . There is no law you can not watch more . When you test you make sure there can be no backfeed to give you a bad reading . Some DVOMs have a diode test section on your "knob" . You want "flow" in one direction and no flow in the other .

[gstallons]

https://youtu.be/BXOS5czCb3Q

[docc]

Thanks, gstallons! Testing voltage through this "bad" regulator, there is flow through from the yellow wires (input from the alternator) to the red (regulator output to the battery), but not the other way. So, those diodes are good. Yet, there is also voltage flowing from the red wire to the case (ground) which does not occur on my new regulator.

So, somehow, this regulator has developed a relatively minor internal short and discharges the battery even with the key off. I also wonder if a short like that would overwork the alternator increasing heat and the chance of stator failure.

[gstallons]

Mmmm . If it is working , be happy . 

[gstallons]

Maybe , the 0.5 mF cap is closed ? 

And buddy I am guessing .