Rear Brake caliper 2003 V11 lemans

[KINDOY2]

 

 

edit:  Got it Handled thanks everyone..!

 

 

 

Anyone have a good rear Brembo caliper for the V-11's they want to sell?  Rear Rotor for the same as well  if its nice.

Thanks!!

kindoy

[gstallons]

What is wrong with your caliper ? The rotor I will have to think about parting with it .

[KINDOY2]

I went for a ride today on my 03 Rosso Corsa..I guess while on the highway the rear caliper seals blew ( the bike had been sitting 5 years)..and so it looks like it froze the pads against the rotor..then over heated melted and fried the whole mess..blew brake fluid all over the tire..caliper is un saveable..Rotor is complete toast as well...I did't realize what was happening until I got off the Highway and went to stop and had no rear brake pedal....it could have been worse I guess. I want the rotor like mine with the Gold center so if you don't have one like that or if you don't want to part with yours thats ok..I'll just order a new one..they are'nt super pricey.   

[Lucky Phil]

Just now, KINDOY2 said:

I went for a ride today on my 03 Cosso Corsa..I guess while on the highway the rear caliper seals blew ( the bike had been sitting 5 years)..and so it looks like it froze the pads against the rotor..then over heated melted and fried the whole mess..blew brake fluid all over the tire..caliper is un saveable..Rotor is complete toast as well...I did't realize what was happening until I got off the Highway and went to stop and had no rear brake pedal....it could have been worse I guess. I want the rotor like mine with the Gold center so if you don't have one like that or if you don't want to part with yours thats ok..I'll just order a new one..they are'nt super pricey.   

Most likely cause for this is a mal adjusted master cylinder or a master cylinder thats jammed partially on. have you been doing any work on the brake lever or foot pegs? Could be the caliper of course but the first 2 are the usual suspects.

Ciao

[KINDOY2]

1 minute ago, Lucky Phil said:

Most likely cause for this is a mal adjusted master cylinder or a master cylinder thats jammed partially on. have you been doing any work on the brake lever or foot pegs? Could be the caliper of course but the first 2 are the usual suspects.

Ciao

No I havn't done anything to the master since I've owned the bike and I rode it the other day and it seemed fine..I put new tires on recently and slid in a new set of Ferodo pads..something I've done a million times without issues..so I was quite surprised ..I tested the front and rear brakes while leaving the house like I always do..they seemed ok at that time. I looked at the master as soon as I got it home and on the lift..it seems normal...I will test it out thoroughly  after replacing the damaged parts though.

 

 

[Lucky Phil]

6 minutes ago, KINDOY2 said:

No I havn't done anything to the master since I've owned the bike and I rode it the other day and it seemed fine..I put new tires on recently and slid in a new set of Ferodo pads..something I've done a million times without issues..so I was quite surprised ..I tested the front and rear brakes while leaving the house like I always do..they seemed ok at that time. I looked at the master as soon as I got it home and on the lift..it seems normal...I will test it out thoroughly  after replacing the damaged parts though.

 

 

Yep check it for binding, just in case. How did the rear disk look? Blue? Are you sure the new pads didn't jam in the caliper and cause the issue?

Ciao

[KINDOY2]

7 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Yep check it for binding, just in case. How did the rear disk look? Blue? Are you sure the new pads didn't jam in the caliper and cause the issue?

Ciao

No I am not sure the pads didn't bind..like I said they seemed ok when I pulled away..and for the previous 2 weeks I had  had the bike on the lift with the the rear wheel able to spin free and it seemed to spin normally...the rotor was perfect before..like new....now its coated in aluminum and brake pad material and looks like it got hotter than hell..so something caused the pads to lock onto it and drag ...just not hard enough for me to feel it while doing 70-80 mph on the highway for an hour or so ..so either the pads jammed and overheated the seals which then blew..or the seals blew and let the pads drag..not sure which caused which.

[fotoguzzi]

I have a caliper and rotor from a Centauro, I bet it fits?  I could give up the master cylinder too if you need it. Send pm

 

[gstallons]

Whatever you do , make sure you correct the problem before going down the road and hauling it back with the same problem(s) ! 

I think what ever rotor you come up with you can swap the rotor only instead of the entire  assy. I think these spools are removable and the rotor can be swapped . These should be clean and spin kinda easy . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 12, 2020 by gstallons
wording problem

[KINDOY2]

10 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Whatever you do , make sure you correct the problem before going down the road and hauling it back with the same problem(s) ! 

I think what ever rotor you come up with you can swap the rotor only instead of the entire  assy. I think these spools are removable and the rotor can be swapped . These should be clean and spin kinda easy . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The spools on the rear are fixed.. I rode it home 50 miles.. I rarely use the rear brake anyway.. when I fix it it’ll be right.

Thanks!

[KINDOY2]

37 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:

I have a caliper and rotor from a Centauro, I bet it fits?  I could give up the master cylinder too if you need it. Send pm

 

Thanks.. I decided to just order new stuff rotor, caliper, pads  from AF1.. Ive bought a truckload of Aprila stuff there. Cheers!

[andy york]

New calipers are cheap enough in my opinion. 100 bucks and you probably could have a new one.

Bike sitting for 5 years = bad fluid. starts to solidify in the line...first pump or 2 is ok and then you have forced that nasty stuff into the caliper.  

Now its stuck in the caliper and can't find its way back in that tiny feed hole. In the mean time the caliper is full and pushing the pads against the rotor.

Rotor gets cherry red ..heat transfers to the caliper...melts the seals and distorts the pistons. Pistons are of a non-metallic substance so they

can't transfer any heat.

Of all the things you could not like about a V11, the rear brake is the most under engineered piece on the bike. I think it 

really was a "use these , we have a bunch of them".

I rarely use the rear brake ....2nd set of pads in 125,000 miles. I mainly use the rear in the rain.

I haven't look in a while but do replace the rotor also. if it got cherry red is has been compromised .

Andy

[KINDOY2]

8 hours ago, andy york said:

New calipers are cheap enough in my opinion. 100 bucks and you probably could have a new one.

Bike sitting for 5 years = bad fluid. starts to solidify in the line...first pump or 2 is ok and then you have forced that nasty stuff into the caliper.  

Now its stuck in the caliper and can't find its way back in that tiny feed hole. In the mean time the caliper is full and pushing the pads against the rotor.

Rotor gets cherry red ..heat transfers to the caliper...melts the seals and distorts the pistons. Pistons are of a non-metallic substance so they

can't transfer any heat.

Of all the things you could not like about a V11, the rear brake is the most under engineered piece on the bike. I think it 

really was a "use these , we have a bunch of them".

I rarely use the rear brake ....2nd set of pads in 125,000 miles. I mainly use the rear in the rain.

I haven't look in a while but do replace the rotor also. if it got cherry red is has been compromised .

Andy

Thanks much..Great  input!

[Shepflylow]

Kindoy2. Great collection of bikes. Where did you find a rear rotor painted gold like the original. I ordered a “gold series” Brembo from Italy but it is not painted at all! Any information is appreciated!

[KINDOY2]

Hi,

I got mine thru AF1 Racing.

part#   GU03635700

took about a week-10 days.

Cheers!

Paul