Side Stand Switch Not Killing

[docc]

10 hours ago, footgoose said:

simpler yet please... you lost me at relay #3

I learned this one from Kiwi_Roy, so I have a legitimate reference! 

The Run Switch is powered two different ways:

1) In gear, riding, the Run Switch is energized through the Sidestand Switch which closes its circuit when the stand is raised. Direct connection from the Ignition Switch, no relay.

2) In neutral, the Neutral Switch pulls in Relay #3 (the middle relay, third from the front) that routes power from the Ignition Switch through its NO/ Normally Open contact [30 to 87, labelled on some relays as "3 and 5", or simply the outboard two contacts on the relay base].  This relay is confusingly referred to as the "Sidestand Relay" on wiring diagrams, but it is energized by the Neutral Switch and more accurately is the "Neutral Relay."

So, in the event your V11 will not run in gear with the sidestand up, lift the seat, pull Relay#3 and either insert a short length of wire into the outside two connections in the relay base or, as Kiwi_Roy says, wrap a short length of wire around the outboard two blades of the relay and reinsert (either way, effectively "hot wiring" the relay and sending power to the Run Switch full time when the Ignition Switch is on).

(Again, this is a field expedient solution for the case that the Sidestand Switch fails to close with the stand up and the bike will not run in gear ("stranded"). The OP, LowRyter, has the opposite case with the switch stuck in the closed position or the wires shorted together somewhere, like pinched together under the alternator cover.)

[LowRyter]

12 hours ago, docc said:

A more elegant solution, in the event the Sidestand Switch will not close and energize the Run Switch is to lift the seat and "hot wire" the middle/#3 relay (30 -> 87) bypassing the neutral switch and its relay to energize the Run Switch hot off the Ignition Switch. About 3 cm of wire would do it.

Of course, LowRyter's issue is the opposite: Sidestand Switch stuck closed. Makes my want to tap on it with a suitable persuasion device . . .

as mentioned previously, the hammer solution worked well for my lawn mower starting rope ratchet.  (I actually fixed the problem with some soap)

 

Regarding the Greenie, there are many moments of frustration with that machine that have tempted me take a hammer to it.

[docc]

Use copper. The bruises don't show as badly . . .

[swooshdave]

I would never have a bike with a self-retracing side stand. I rode my dad's K75 and the side stand retracted when you pulled in the clutch. 

On my 850T that I had and on my Nortons the side stands are so long you can't forget them. I have seen people ride off with those long side stand out but they were always drunk.

[docc]

Not only could riding off with a V11 sidestand down be demoralizing or injurious, the attachment to the sump spacer and timing chain cover can wreak a ridiculous amount of damage and take the bike out of service. This is a fair time, I suppose, to post a reminder to address the proper tightening of these fasteners at one of the V11's Achilles' Heels.

The large upper bolt is torqued to 70-75 Nm! One of the few specific torque values in the Workshop Manual . . .

[Lucky Phil]

6 hours ago, docc said:

Not only could riding off with a V11 sidestand down be demoralizing or injurious, the attachment to the sump spacer and timing chain cover can wreak a ridiculous amount of damage and take the bike out of service. This is a fair time, I suppose, to post a reminder to address the proper tightening of these fasteners at one of the V11's Achilles' Heels.

The large upper bolt is torqued to 70-75 Nm! One of the few specific torque values in the Workshop Manual . . .

Interestingly docc the later bikes had an 8mm bolt here, maybe to address the loosening issue.

Ciao

[LowRyter]

Thanks for the photo Docc.  It was reminder to me.  My bike appeared to be leaning a little too far when on the stand.  Bev was nice enough to hold the bike up while I got an allen socket and 25mm wrench to those buggers.  Yep they were loose.  Not sure I put 50lb on the big one, not a lot of area to get a bite.

[Chuck]

On 8/27/2020 at 11:41 AM, docc said:

Use copper. The bruises don't show as badly . . .

 

[gstallons]

50 ft.lbs. is enough ! 

[docc]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

50 ft.lbs. is enough ! 

Very likely. 50 ft-lb = ~68 Nm

Still quite a lot more on that big bolt head than I would have thought . . .

[LowRyter]

I couldn't get a enough bite with a wrench to put 50 on it.  A socket won't fit, if I had one. So not sure how'd you'd ever know other than a good "feel"?

BTW- is that 50 lb-ft when the bike is on the side stand or off?  

[LowRyter]

As Chuck Berry would say, I got motor-vated thinking about the big bolt.  I remember that I just got an electric impact wrench and a bunch of BIG sockets.  So I took out the 24 MM socket, it is a direct fit and has clearance.  I got my 1/2 in torque wrench out (no, not the impact wrench) and set it on 50 and went to work on it while the bike was on the side stand.  The bolt kept turning and turning, tighter and tighter, until I chickened out.  Close enough.  At least much tighter than it was. 

I just couldn't bear having something *snap* and be buried under a 550 lb green lump.

[gstallons]

And we would have heard the F-word all over the continent !

[PJPR01]

John....if you had a high quality wheel chock, you could take all of the pressure off the side stand while keeping it vertical and Bev could be drinking a cool one instead of holding the bike for you!  I always park the Scura in the chock just as a safety precaution rather than leaving it on the side stand.

[docc]

1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:

John....if you had a high quality wheel chock, you could take all of the pressure off the side stand while keeping it vertical and Bev could be drinking a cool one instead of holding the bike for you!  I always park the Scura in the chock just as a safety precaution rather than leaving it on the side stand.

https://www.baxleycompanies.com/