Help With Gearbox Cover Removal

[k99]

I'm in the process of a little preventative maintenance by installing the improved shift spring from Chuck and Scud.  The gearbox cover is giving me some trouble with coming off.  I figure I'd check with you guys before I accidentally damage something.  Image attached displaying my progress so far.

Is there anything other than the eleven hex bolts around the perimeter holding the cover in place?  I checked the schematics and that seemed to be all there was.  Is it just sealant holding it in?  Any tips for popping it off without damaging anything?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

[O2 V11]

k99,

It must be only the sealant holding it in place, mine took a bit to remove it first time.  I held onto the selector spline as best I could and just pulled it, eventually the cover came away.

Rob

[docc]

Yep, but that sealant could be pretty "set-up" now. Maybe warm the perimeter gently with a heat gun then find the extended rib at the right between the two bolt holes midway. It is an excellent purchase point for the pry end of a "Lady's Foot" or what P.Roper aptly calls a podgy bar.

Should pop right off. Best if it is already in neutral to simplify reassembly . . .

[gstallons]

9 hours ago, k99 said:

I'm in the process of a little preventative maintenance by installing the improved shift spring from Chuck and Scud.  The gearbox cover is giving me some trouble with coming off.  I figure I'd check with you guys before I accidentally damage something.  Image attached displaying my progress so far.

Is there anything other than the eleven hex bolts around the perimeter holding the cover in place?  I checked the schematics and that seemed to be all there was.  Is it just sealant holding it in?  Any tips for popping it off without damaging anything?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

How about the two Allen heads at the lower left and bottom ?

[LowRyter]

If you're trying to break free the sealant, perhaps you might try to wedge fishing line into the gap and saw through it?

[MartyNZ]

Remember that there are two hollow dowels that locate the plate against the gearbox housing, so the plate cannot move sideways. The dowels are tight, which adds to the difficulty. The plate must pull straight away from the case by repeated jiggling after the bond line is released. Heat may help soften whatever is holding it.

BTW, it is best if you can be certain that the bike is in either neutral or 1st before removing the plate. If you choose neutral, mark the cam wheel alignment at adjacent teeth. There's already marks for first gear.

[k99]

Great tips everyone. Thanks!  I'll give it another shot and let you all know how it turns out.

-Keith

[docc]

Hey, while you're in there . . .

 

[gstallons]

With the extender on my bikes , it shifts better than my V Strom and as good as a Jap crotch rocket ! It went from H Farmall to WOW !

[k99]

Ok, I got it off.  Pretty easy once I understood things.  This advice from MartyNZ showed me what I was doing wrong:

On 11/15/2020 at 10:06 AM, MartyNZ said:

Remember that there are two hollow dowels that locate the plate against the gearbox housing, so the plate cannot move sideways. The dowels are tight, which adds to the difficulty. The plate must pull straight away from the case by repeated jiggling after the bond line is released. 

And this advice from Docc is how I got the cover off:

On 11/14/2020 at 7:53 PM, docc said:

then find the extended rib at the right between the two bolt holes midway. It is an excellent purchase point for the pry end of a "Lady's Foot" or what P.Roper aptly calls a podgy bar.

I'll attach some images illustrating the rib Docc mentioned if it helps others in the future.  Thanks everyone!

[footgoose]

may as well replace the shift shaft seal while in there.

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_225&products_id=2275

says they're out but maybe some elsewhere. They're cheap, get 2 in case you bugger one.

[k99]

Well, shoot.  I got everything back together and now the neutral switch isn't working.  Neutral light won't come on, bike won't start unless the kickstand is up.  I tried some deoxit on the connections, still no luck.  

Could I have messed something up on reassembly?  Any easy ways to check the switch without tearing everything apart again?

[docc]

Take the wire off the switch and ground it. If the Neutral Light comes on, the fault is in the switch (could be just "stuck"). If you ground the wire and the light does not come on, the fault is in the wiring (may have gotten pinched "open" under the side cover on reassembly).

[k99]

Yep, goes into neutral when I ground the wire. Must be the switch then. Thanks for the tip, Docc. 

Any tricks to getting it unstuck before I start taking things apart?  And is it above or below the oil level? (in regards to whether or not I have to drain the gearbox again to remove and inspect the switch.)

[docc]

Pretty sure the switch is "about" the same level as the gearoil, but not below. Pretty sure you can remove the switch without much oil loss and work its actuator ball in and out with some solvent to make sure it is free. Connect the wire, ground the case of the switch and press the ball. Light comes on = switch okay.

The issue certainly may indicate that the selector plates did not go back together quite right . . .