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Posted

I got a lot of stick on WildGoose for saying the Daytona front forks were nigh on useless. It was a shame and a huge mistake by Guzzi to intorduce a new frame design with crap forks. I'm sure a lot of people thought the frame was at fault. Of course in typical Guzzi fashion, the stable door was closed, they were replaced with WP units, long after the horse had bolted.

Anyway, when the BEARS racing was happening the few brave enough to enter a Guzzi Daytona, usually changed to GSXR forks, it's a road that's been well travelled and repeated by many owners, I'm ASS-uming the Sporti wears the same or similar front end.

Personally I never tried it, as at time I never had the cash

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Posted
19 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

I have GSXR forks on my spine frame Daytona. I am sure there are others.

I was able to make the GSXR forks fit simply by using a different steering head bearing set with a different ID, and I added a small spacer below the bottom gearing to adjust the length.

I have another set of GSXR forks that will likely end up on the wife's V11 some day. But a Jeep keeps eating all my expendable time.....

 

I am also the guy who found the odd damping set up in the early V11 forks. The early forks have two bleed holes that allow fork oil to bypass the valving until the forks compress past them. That means that only the last quarter or so of travel actually has compression damping. By blocking one of the two holes I was able to get not only damping, but now the adjuster actually does something. Previously it had no effect because the oil simply bypassed everything else and went through the two holes.

 

Sorry, I am not around here much lately. I feel guilty, but in the end I am happy to be alive. 

IIRC, @GuzziMoto blocked one of the bypass holes (lower one, I forget?).  I see this set of Gallery images by @Drewteague where he blocked both:

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, I only blocked one hole and it made a big improvement. I reckon you could block both holes, but then you may want to run a lighter fork oil as all the oil would have to go through the valving in the piston. Blocking one hole allowed me to continue using the stock weight fork oil.

Nice picture.

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Posted
On 2/16/2021 at 3:50 PM, footgoose said:

Welcome DavidB, there is a long ago thread of a member here doing Suzuki clamps and Ohlins on a V11. Probably a good idea. Let us follow the journey, ,, all of us here secretly want an 1100 Spot so post some photos when you get round tuit....

Thanks for the multiple welcomes, folks.

Most of my effort at the minute is on my Mk 2 Le Mans ‘950 Superleggera Carbone’ (Superlightweight Carbon).

Engine under rebuild with new 950 barrels and pistons, all new parts throughout bottom end and valve train etc.  Mikuni flat slides, carbon fibre V7/Le Mans shape tank and front guard, brakes refurbished, gearbox about to undergo tear down and new bearings and seals, as is final drive.  No side covers, and all unnecessary frame tabs have been removes and ground down prior to powder coating the frame.  red for main part, lower rails in silver, swing arm, stands etc in black.  New hot cam as well.

Looking for about 95HP and 180kg, which should put it on par with my daily ride (1250 Bandit) in power:weight stakes.

 

When the R1 front end is ready to go on I’ll split the engine and gearbox and rebuild the 1100 box which is notorious for crappy bearing and poorly case hardened gears, and which whines and throbs like a mofo in top gear.  The R1 wheel is in the pic below.

 

 

55AC8AF9-8505-4DA6-832B-84BA8AC4DB47.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

Very nice! I hope you'll keep us up on it with a thread of your own in "Older Models" or some posts in this delightful thread:

 

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