Starter motor repair

[p6x]

7 minutes ago, Randy said:

When I did my trouble shooting I did exactly that. I was considering running a larger gauge wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid thinking this may be an issue. It worked well with the jumper. When I put the spade connector back on it also worked well. Just to make sure spinning the engine and loosening it up wasn't a factor I waited a couple of days before trying it again. Pushed the starter button and she spun over well with no issues.

I am not planning to power the starter to get it to crank. I am just going to check the solenoid pull-in/hold-in function. It is only to ascertain I have done all I could to trouble shoot before removing the starter. The Solenoid coils are properly working. Once I get inside the drive lever mechanism, I will have a better idea. That is, if I manage to open the starter. I don't have a bench vise, hopefully, it will come apart.

[gstallons]

I am not smart enough to post a pic , so if you will , Google a Lisle 20750 remote starter tool . This is what I am referring to. You attach one lead to a 12v source and one lead to the starter solenoid tab . Make sure the transmission is in neutral ! Pushing the button will cause the starter to function or it will not function. 

 If the starter operates , the starter is good and the problem is in the wiring circuit on the bike.  

If the starter does not operate , then it is bad and needs replacing. I do this for a living and It is not cost effective to mess with .

Disassembling this starter will be entertaining but it will cost as much in time and parts as replacing this component with a new one.

 

[p6x]

2 hours ago, gstallons said:

I am not smart enough to post a pic , so if you will , Google a Lisle 20750 remote starter tool . This is what I am referring to. You attach one lead to a 12v source and one lead to the starter solenoid tab . Make sure the transmission is in neutral ! Pushing the button will cause the starter to function or it will not function. 

 If the starter operates , the starter is good and the problem is in the wiring circuit on the bike.  

If the starter does not operate , then it is bad and needs replacing. I do this for a living and It is not cost effective to mess with .

Disassembling this starter will be entertaining but it will cost as much in time and parts as replacing this component with a new one.

 

I purchased some wire, two battery terminals, two alligator clips.

The Solenoid seems to work perfectly.

That starter is coming off.

[p6x]

My Valeo starter is model D6RA210. "Made in France". This is a survivor! I can't just throw it away to replace it with one made somewhere else...

Tomorrow I shall open it. It seems like the driving housing is fastened by torx screws.

 

[gstallons]

Good luck !

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, p6x said:

My Valeo starter is model D6RA210. "Made in France". This is a survivor! I can't just throw it away to replace it with one made somewhere else...

Tomorrow I shall open it. It seems like the driving housing is fastened by torx screws.

 

As a general principal I'm not sure I see the point in rebuilding a component with an inherent fault when a later superior iteration has been released unless you have the ability to reproduce the update to the original unit. Always opt for the latest version unless there is some other issue.

I'd personally opt for the later unit with the better magnet retention system if indeed that is the case here.

Phil

[p6x]

I found the root cause of my problem;

The shield between the planetary and the armature was making contact with the armature and arcing.

At this point, I think I am going to play it safe, and purchase a new starter motor. I am not certain I understand how could the armature could come in contact with the shield. I will continue investigating as I did not manage to remove the brush assy. holder at the back of the motor housing.

With the shield removed, you can clearly see it seats on the top of the magnets. I am guessing the armature moved forward. By the way, the magnets were glued and not clipped.

Now I have a decision to make: should I replace it with a Valeo, or with a no brand equivalent....

The no brand is a drop in replacement, correct?

 

Edited Wednesday at 09:19 PM by p6x

[p6x]

23 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

As a general principle I'm not sure I see the point in rebuilding a component with an inherent fault when a later superior iteration has been released unless you have the ability to reproduce the update to the original unit. Always opt for the latest version unless there is some other issue.

I'd personally opt for the later unit with the better magnet retention system if indeed that is the case here.

Phil

I agree it was the best rationale.

I was interested to understand what was the root cause of the problem.

Edited Wednesday at 11:18 PM by p6x