V11 won’t idle correctly

[docc]

2 hours ago, leroysch said:

 

Where my problem was when that happened to me......

 

I encountered this foul on an '02 V11 LeMans with a "bent tube" speedometer drive (that had been repurposed to drive the earlier white face Veglia). The V11 would not idle and the tube had already been >reshaped< . . .

After I tuned this V11 and >reshaped< the tube, further, to clear the throttle bar, the cable broke later. --->My bad.

I gave the guy my original speedo cable and a known good angle drive. I remember him saying, "Whatever, I probably won't keep this bike."

Makes me cherish and appreciate those of you who remain dedicated to our purpose. 

 

[po18guy]

OK you guys, the biggest Holley was the "Dominator"  While it was not a Dominator, I had a "List 4239" 700 CFM - half of a big block Chev tunnel ram setup - on my hot rodded 283. No choke, no power valve, but when that 350HP/327 cam came into play, it more than kept up with traffic.  Stayed right beside a Boss 302 Mustang and an SS396 (probably 325HP) Chevelle. Was humbling with me in my ratty, rusted '61 Biscayne.

And now, back to the show I mean thread! I started this, I might as well finish it.

[Guzzimax]

Took the air filters off today, cleaned the inside of the throttle bodies with carb cleaner, the valves are moving fine, there’s nothing obstructing the linkage in the “tunnel” and the cold start is operating OK without any obstruction. Started the bike, problem still there, revs immediately to around 4000 rpm, and continues climbing higher before I hit the kill button, so I must admit this has got me completely stymied 

[Guzzimax]

[docc]

Have you done the test for an air leak between the throttle bodies and head?

[Guzzimax]

Tried that, there’s no leaks on the intake side of the throttle bodies, the intake rubber hoses are new and have been clamped up correctly on the alloy intake pipes 

[docc]

Possibly a sensor unplugged ? (Not sure which, if any, would trigger uncontrolled rpm . . .)

[Lucky Phil]

Have you checked the fast idle cam is clear of the throttle mechanism?

Ciao

[Guzzimax]

I’ll recheck the fast idle cam tomorrow 

[Lucky Phil]

19 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:

I’ll recheck the fast idle cam tomorrow 

How did you remove the throttle bodies, separate them from cross over supports and remove individually?

Ciao

[Guzzimax]

No, I didn’t remove them from the cross over support, I left them attached to that, I removed and replaced each rubber intake hose once I’d removed the cross over assembly by releasing the intake hose clamps

[Lucky Phil]

14 minutes ago, Guzzimax said:

No, I didn’t remove them from the cross over support, I left them attached to that, I removed and replaced each rubber intake hose once I’d removed the cross over assembly by releasing the intake hose clamps

Ok so you didn't remove the throttle bodies from the bike, just the engine?

Ciao

[Guzzimax]

That’s correct 

[docc]

I recall removing my throttle body assembly on the RedFrame Sport required the frame to be "crabbed."

This Guzzimax puzzle is a head-scratcher!

[Lucky Phil]

I'd wind out the l/h TB idle screw until it has clearance ( the r/h should be clear already if one is indeed fitted) then disconnect the linkage and make sure both throttle plates are bottoming out inside the throttle bodies. You should adjust the linkage so when both throttle plates are bottomed in the bodies the small post on the end of the linkage aligns perfectly with the bush on the l/h linkage, then refit it. Wind the idle stop screw on the l/h side until it just touches the linkage and give it half a turn. This will guarantee the throttles are closing and then do a balance and idle adjustment. When you start it up it wont idle but you can adjust the idle stop screw until it does and you're in the ball park. 

Check the fast idle cam first.

Ciao