po18guy Posted March 1 Posted March 1 23 hours ago, p6x said: @docc It was not the battery! I received the new Odyssey battery; they have retired the model name PC545 (MJ). The additional thermal protection is achieved by having the battery encased in that metal jacket. I conducted some comparative tests on both batteries, and they were similar. I installed the new battery, and the starting was not straight at the push of the button. Not sure how to describe it. May have been something to do with the Solenoid. But I have not been able to reproduce it. I have made multiple starts, and it cranks properly each time. On my '04, there always seems to be about 1/2 second between button activation and starter engagement. Almost as if there is a slight time delay. Then, it seems as if the starter is shaken awake and must then lean into the task.
p6x Posted March 1 Posted March 1 2 hours ago, po18guy said: On my '04, there always seems to be about 1/2 second between button activation and starter engagement. Almost as if there is a slight time delay. Then, it seems as if the starter is shaken awake and must then lean into the task. I had that prior to rerouting the power directly from the battery to the relay. So far, I only experienced it twice. The first time was with my helmet and ear plugs on. I could not properly identify the noise. All I saw was the dashboard light intensity dim, and no cranking. The second time, in my garage, after having installed the new Odyssey PC545MJ, charged and tested. It was like the solenoid was not properly engaging the starter gear through the fly wheel. At the next attempt, it cranked properly, and since then, it seems to be working as before. All the wiring is properly connected, the battery is good. Whatever it was, it may have to do with either the starter motor or the solenoid. At present, I am running around home to see if it will do it again. Obviously, according to Murphy, it is going to work perfectly until I am up in Amarillo. 1
motortouring Posted March 3 Posted March 3 On 2/29/2024 at 11:33 PM, p6x said: Found it; http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen Mosfet Regulator about.htm This is a drop-in replacement of the stock one? On 3/1/2024 at 6:24 PM, Tomchri said: No, but fairly simple to do. I put it under the battery tray, check clearance. Idling 14.73 on my greenie, and not even a red one. . I did install extra terminals + and - , only 1 cable on the battery. Some pictures on the forum somewhere. Others here have installed it to, all seems happy. Cheers Tom. I have used the same and also had a good experience up till now https://www.carmo.nl/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4318_1086&products_id=616 (Dutch supplier of the same, but delivery in one day. I needed that) The one I have is slightly different since it has wires directly on the regulator. This made mounting very easy. The small wiring diagram in the link explains how to connect. This regulator has an overheating protection and a shortcut protection. The output voltage fits also to LiFePO4 batteries. I mounted it at the same bracket as the original regulator. You need to drill some extra holes. 1
p6x Posted March 3 Posted March 3 3 hours ago, motortouring said: The output voltage fits also to LiFePO4 batteries. Yes, but which? While I was at Cyclegear, I reviewed a few of those they sold; none of them had the same min and max charge voltage requirements... Obviously, all these are blanket statements in case your battery fails; I don't believe many motorcyclists know what voltage is being applied to their batteries when they ride. I remember the older cars having Ampere and Voltage meters part of the measurements. 1
p6x Posted March 3 Posted March 3 10 minutes ago, gstallons said: You must be pretty old ! I am... unfortunately... I liked the British sports cars, and if you ever got close to one, like Triumph, Jaguar, MG, Austin Cooper, Aston Martin, they had those Smith/Jaeger gauges, with all that information. I remember that my friends and I were impressed by how many of those gauges fitted on the Dashboard; including Oil pressure and Oil temperature.... I always liked analogical instruments. 3
motortouring Posted March 3 Posted March 3 7 hours ago, p6x said: Yes, but which? While I was at Cyclegear, I reviewed a few of those they sold; none of them had the same min and max charge voltage requirements... Obviously, all these are blanket statements in case your battery fails; I don't believe many motorcyclists know what voltage is being applied to their batteries when they ride. I remember the older cars having Ampere and Voltage meters part of the measurements. I am not sure, I will try and find a spec, but I thought the minimum voltage was often a problem. If I look at the wiring diagram, then I would say that the direct battery connection is part of the solution. Edit: It should be 14.0-14.6Volt https://sunonbattery.com/properly-charge-lifepo4-battery/ 12,6-14.4V is the voltage that I measure. And I use a not-so-accurate digital voltage meter/USB charger. But that is nice to see if the voltage is stable. But as said, I plan to go to the LiFePO4 but the cheap Yuasa is for the moment good enough. 1
Lucky Phil Posted March 3 Posted March 3 3 hours ago, motortouring said: I am not sure, I will try and find a spec, but I thought the minimum voltage was often a problem. If I look at the wiring diagram, then I would say that the direct battery connection is part of the solution. Edit: It should be 14.0-14.6Volt https://sunonbattery.com/properly-charge-lifepo4-battery/ 12,6-14.4V is the voltage that I measure. And I use a not-so-accurate digital voltage meter/USB charger. But that is nice to see if the voltage is stable. But as said, I plan to go to the LiFePO4 but the cheap Yuasa is for the moment good enough. The problem with the direct battery solution is there is a parasitic drain now on the battery when the bike is parked which along with the parasitic drain from the ECU causes the battery to lose charge fairly rapidly. The OEM design eliminates this because when the ignition key is turned off the reg is isolated due to it voltage sensing being from the light wiring circuit. The problem with the OEM arrangement is that the light circuit wiring is marginal in it's ability to carry the current without the voltage sagging when the lights are on and because the reg senses essentially battery voltage from the lighting circuit it reads the "sagged" voltage when you have the lights on. This then overcharges the battery. Instead of the reg reading actual battery voltage it reads battery voltage minus 1 volt usually. The solution is what I did years ago and is to run a separate supply for the headlights and fit mini relays in the headlight shell. This cures the voltage sag with the headlights on, eliminates the high current that the headlight switch normally has to carry and keeps the reg wired as per OEM which isolates it with the ignition switch off and avoids the parasitic drain when parked. Phil 2 5
gstallons Posted March 6 Posted March 6 On 3/3/2024 at 4:19 PM, Lucky Phil said: The problem with the direct battery solution is there is a parasitic drain now on the battery when the bike is parked which along with the parasitic drain from the ECU causes the battery to lose charge fairly rapidly. The OEM design eliminates this because when the ignition key is turned off the reg is isolated due to it voltage sensing being from the light wiring circuit. The problem with the OEM arrangement is that the light circuit wiring is marginal in it's ability to carry the current without the voltage sagging when the lights are on and because the reg senses essentially battery voltage from the lighting circuit it reads the "sagged" voltage when you have the lights on. This then overcharges the battery. Instead of the reg reading actual battery voltage it reads battery voltage minus 1 volt usually. The solution is what I did years ago and is to run a separate supply for the headlights and fit mini relays in the headlight shell. This cures the voltage sag with the headlights on, eliminates the high current that the headlight switch normally has to carry and keeps the reg wired as per OEM which isolates it with the ignition switch off and avoids the parasitic drain when parked. Phil Could you post a diagram of you mods so the thinking impaired can understand what you did ?
audiomick Posted March 6 Posted March 6 I haven't seen Phil's solution, but what he describes is a common mod, not only for V11s. Often the purpose is simply to reduce the load on the lighting switch etc. . In the case of the V11, the function of the regulator is also involved. Leave everything as it is, EXCEPT the wire that in the original wiring supplies current to the lights is pulled off the light socket and used instead to switch an additional relay. This relay in turn supplies current direct from the battery to the lights in place of the wire you pulled off to switch the relay. Don't forget to put a fuse in somewhere along the way. As Phil already pointed out, this means that the original wiring for the lights is no longer loaded down by the drain from the lights, but rather is only switching the new relay. Given that the circuit is no longer loaded down to any great extent, the regulator sees much closer to battery voltage at the point in the lighting circuit where it is measuring, and accordingly regulates the charging current much closer to what it should ideally be. Additional advantages include that the working current for the lights is no longer going throught the light switch, which makes the switche's life a lot easier. 1 1
swooshdave Posted March 14 Posted March 14 On 3/3/2024 at 2:19 PM, Lucky Phil said: The problem with the direct battery solution is there is a parasitic drain now on the battery when the bike is parked which along with the parasitic drain from the ECU causes the battery to lose charge fairly rapidly. The OEM design eliminates this because when the ignition key is turned off the reg is isolated due to it voltage sensing being from the light wiring circuit. The problem with the OEM arrangement is that the light circuit wiring is marginal in it's ability to carry the current without the voltage sagging when the lights are on and because the reg senses essentially battery voltage from the lighting circuit it reads the "sagged" voltage when you have the lights on. This then overcharges the battery. Instead of the reg reading actual battery voltage it reads battery voltage minus 1 volt usually. The solution is what I did years ago and is to run a separate supply for the headlights and fit mini relays in the headlight shell. This cures the voltage sag with the headlights on, eliminates the high current that the headlight switch normally has to carry and keeps the reg wired as per OEM which isolates it with the ignition switch off and avoids the parasitic drain when parked. Phil Is there a wiring diagram or pictures of how people have done this? I think it's simple but sometimes the details are what matters. 1
Lucky Phil Posted March 14 Posted March 14 1 minute ago, swooshdave said: Is there a wiring diagram or pictures of how people have done this? I think it's simple but sometimes the details are what matters. I think Kiwiroy did a diagram years ago. That's where I got the idea. Phil
swooshdave Posted March 16 Posted March 16 On 3/14/2024 at 2:47 PM, Lucky Phil said: I think Kiwiroy did a diagram years ago. That's where I got the idea. Phil Interesting discussion here. Apparently to doesn't actually make a difference? btw Searching for diagram and @Kiwi_Roy is like typing "p0rn" into Google. You'll get a trillion results. 1 1
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