po18guy Posted June 24, 2021 Posted June 24, 2021 Being somewhat of a bush mechanic, I've had to improvise many of my tools. Upon awakening Big Red from slumber with a new battery, I know that I had to set the TPS, bleed the clutch and other small (i.e. BIG) tasks. So, I bought a bleeder banjo bolt a few years ago for my Kaw. But they sent the M10X1.0 for Euro bikes. They replaced it with the M10X1.25 for the 500, but let me keep the other (which fit a Guzzi that I did not yet have, wink wink). So, time to break that out and place it at the high point in the clutch hydraulic system. Topped with a vinyl cap and we're (almost) ready to roll. I had already posted the TPS breakout harness/VOM adapter. But I had a Motion Pro mercury carb balancer that was still in the box. They are nice tools, but rather fragile things - I broke one of the glass tubes years ago on another unit. What to do? I glancing around, I spied the package that a 20" wiper blade had arrived in. Hmmm...clear plastic, and seems to be the right size and shape. Well, whattaya know? Perfect fit and the hangtag on top of the package is ready-made to hang overhead or drape off the side of the bike. The cushioning aspect works, as fumblefingers me already dropped it. So, after pulling the mufflers and rear wheel so that I could hope to access the clutch slave bleeder nipple, That bit is now officially done. TPS set, a throttle body balance is next up. Oh, as it turns out, a lot of dry or even rusty bits associated with the rear axle, spacers and caliper mount are now well greased with high-temp synthetic grease. Since all of that did not kill me, I am apparently now stronger(?) and potentially ready for some so-far unannounced warm weather sojourn. 3 1
docc Posted June 24, 2021 Posted June 24, 2021 Nicely done, Sir! Taking time to address the rear axle is good method. Be especially mindful of the right, outboard needle cage, sleeve, and washer between the reardrive and swingarm. These should be liberally greased with a waterproof grease regularly lest the sealing surface of the crown wheel be destroyed. Isn’t it a great feeling to make your V11 better? 1
po18guy Posted June 24, 2021 Author Posted June 24, 2021 Well, we'll find out! It looks like the Michelins currently on it were a 'wheels off-wheels on' event, with nary a look at the fasteners, axle, etc. Well, the next bloke who turns the bolts and pulls the axle will not need leverage or a dead blow hammer. Who knows, I might even have done myself a favor. Interesting that the bearings in the rear axle are Polish. The Italian bearing makers must have been on strike that week. As to the mercury manometer (what a name!) I see that Motion Pro has done pretty much the same thing with their current unit, albeit at a substantial price premium. 2
po18guy Posted June 25, 2021 Author Posted June 25, 2021 I might need to fine-tune the TPS, but we'll see on that. The huge difference (and the elimination of intake popping back) was to balance the throttles. Did it at idle and it remained steady through 3500 RPM. Just runs better and is happier on throttle transition, neutral throttle putting around etc. Worth every 5 minutes it took to balance. I have no idea why Mandello located the balance screw in such an accessible location. I guess their first choice of inside the timing cover didn't work out. EDIT: Oh! Forgot to mention that I pulled the bypass needles and cleaned them, using throttle body cleaner and Q-tips in the throttle body. Reset them to 1 turn, as per the advice here of the Wizards of Guz. As mentioned elsewhere, Iridium plugs seem to take about 1 second off of cranking. 1
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