1997 1100 sport

[red lion]

1997 1100 sport runs strong and pulls hard, air box removed now has K&N filter pods, but the bike has a miss now and then, also dies at stop signs some times. It has new spark plugs, new fuel filter, clean air filters. I"m thinking that it might be the fuel pump. Any thoughts what to do?

[docc]

This is the injected 1100 Sport-i ?

Which ECU does this use?

How have you set your valve lash?

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, red lion said:

1997 1100 sport runs strong and pulls hard, air box removed now has K&N filter pods, but the bike has a miss now and then, also dies at stop signs some times. It has new spark plugs, new fuel filter, clean air filters. I"m thinking that it might be the fuel pump. Any thoughts what to do?

Not surprised it has some running issues.

Ciao

[red lion]

The bike is new to me. I have not set the valves yet. It also has a power commander. How can you tell if a fuel pump  needs to be changed? 

[footgoose]

If there was an easy way to pull up all the numerous threads from the last dozen or so years concerning air box vs pods, you would find consensus that pods are more trouble than they are worth. The stock box is engineered for optimal functionality.

If the bike pulls hard it's likely not the fuel pump. If the bike came to me like that I would put it back stock and establish a base line of oem tune specs.

Did you flush the gas tank? That be my #1 job for a newly acquired vintage bike.

 

[Weegie]

4 hours ago, red lion said:

The bike is new to me. I have not set the valves yet. It also has a power commander. How can you tell if a fuel pump  needs to be changed? 

You can usually hear the fuel pump on the Sport i when you turn the key, the pump will run for 3-5 seconds then shut off, a buzzing sound. When the starter is engaged then the pump starts to run again. That doesn't entirely rule out the pump BUT if it's running at all, it's not the pump.

As far as pods they are not as efficient as a standard airbox.

I've installed pods on various sports and Daytonas (of differing types, sponge, paper etc:) and know of several other people who have as well (and they are not idiots), nobody has ever had an issue. I don't dispute you might lose a few ponies but stating that it's a likely cause of a misfire is IMHO over egging the pudding.

If it was me as @footgoose suggests, I'd flush the lines and the tank first, take all the lines off one at a time, check the conditon etc: Then I'd set up the TPS, balance the injectors and do the valves/tappets. Next I'd ceck the phonic wheel pickup is gapped correctly, it's a senor on the crankcase near the top of the bike and if it's not gapped correctly can lead to strange things. I know nothing of Power Commanders but if the misfire is still there, I'd remove it (at least temporarily) to check, the bike should not need it.

Other usual suspects are coils and injectors, I'd check the injectors aren't blocked (they can be removed and and triggered individually via Guzzi diag), the coils are usually pretty reliable.

The bikes had a poor reputation on the standard map, there are various people out there who can provide better, the guy I know is Will Creedon, but I pretty sure there are others.

When you say it misfires and stalls at stop signs, how long have you been running when this happens, any pattern, in fresh air or traffic etc:? Is the misfire always on the one side?

They can run quite hot and stalling and missing are the usual symptoms, when that happens the bike feels like it's losing power as well.

Just some suggestions might help but probably not

[fotoguzzi]

I would start by setting valve lash, it takes about 10 minutes. If too tight it can die at stops.

[Pressureangle]

My 1100 Sport-i is '97. The only mod when I got it appears to be a FBF crossover pipe. With stock ECU and stock mufflers, it suffered from a relatively mild case of the 'idle stall and 3200rpm blues'. I installed a MyECU in place of the stock controller and tuned it over 10k+ miles to the point where the 3200rpm dip was tolerable and idle stalls were something short of maddening. 

Very recently (<200 miles) I took out the stock timing chain and wimpy chain tensioner and installed a set of Joe Caruso's cam drive gears, because it 'sounded like' the cam chain was slapping around. And I like jewelry- I could have installed the aftermarket tensioner, which worked as well in my '85 LM1000; nobody was more surprised than I to discover that the idle issues and the 3200rpm dip are *completely gone*. The idle, which I'd probably spent 2 whole man-hours over the time I've owned it getting as good as it could be, suddenly became perfect, stable, 100-150rpm higher; After tuning the mixture and setting the speed, it now idles at 1100rpm and is so steady it's almost ridiculous. I attribute this all to the precision of the trigger wheel, and the inadequate stock chain tensioner creating a bit of confusion in the timing signal at idle and perhaps a resonance at 3200rpm. 
So my recommendation, if the problem persists after all the obvious and desirable tune-up procedures, is to get rid of the stock timing chain tensioner and install the aftermarket one which is enormously stronger than stock- or if you have the extra gravy, a set of Caruso timing gears. I'd like to have someone else verify that my findings here are what they appear to be.