Traveling Through the Dark

[Kane]

So, after having the regulator/rectifier replaced, and now seeing a sub 14v charge going to the new battery with the new RR —as opposed to the erratic over charging from the old RR — and after last night cleaning up the headlight assembly to replace the lamp that I assumed was fried from the hot old RR, only to find that new bulb will not light (will light when connected directly to the battery) and the hi-beam indicator lamp stays on regardless of the switch, I am getting ready to take a meter and investigate a low output stator for low charging, and grounding issues for the lighting, and likely the low charging as well. 
All of the electrical work is a very gray area for me, but after just paying a shop for new tires and the RR install when they installed the tires, I will take the plunge and do this myself. I know you all got my back! Cheers! Sorry for ranting! 

I am wondering, has anyone changed out the wiring system to a leaner meaner system, something like an improved harness? From my limited experience of problems, I have the potential for needing to rebuild the charging system and the lighting system and any attending problematic grounds and connectors. I know that some of the earlier bikes are plagued by problems with Molex connector, relays, old fashioned fuses.
If one were to redo the V11’s  wiring system or harness (not that I am brave enough to do something like that) with an improved version, by eliminating problematic and unnecessary elements and adding better elements, what would this thing look like? Just curious as this could be quite illuminating and give an overview of a poor and a better design.

 

[Scud]

I can't help you with the wiring, as I just gave up and paid a shop to fix my voltage problem.

But I am trying to give away a motorcycle tire changer... so you don't have to pay a shop for that next time.

[Weegie]

Looking quickly at the wiring diagram I'd think something is wrong between Hi Beam and the warn.

Does the Lo Beam work Ok? The Hi Beam warn is simply tied to the Hi Beam feed but after that there's a 4 way AMP connector.

If the Hi Beam warn is on all the time, accrding to the diagram then you've got a continuous feed to the Hi Beam, that should only happen with Lo Beam energized if the passing button is pressed on the switch

Anyway I've made a couple of harnesses but never for a bike with an ECU, it's perfectly feasible, but would be a lot more involve a bit more work. I'd be tempted to split it into 3 separate looms, ECU & ancillaries, Charge Circuit & then everything else.

Contacted Gregg Bender? He doesn't do a harness for the V11 but he might offer some advice or build a custom loom, probably won't be cheap though

[docc]

1 hour ago, Weegie said:

Looking quickly at the wiring diagram I'd think something is wrong between Hi Beam and the warn.

Does the Lo Beam work Ok? The Hi Beam warn is simply tied to the Hi Beam feed but after that there's a 4 way AMP connector.

If the Hi Beam warn is on all the time, accrding to the diagram then you've got a continuous feed to the Hi Beam, that should only happen with Lo Beam energized if the passing button is pressed on the switch

Anyway I've made a couple of harnesses but never for a bike with an ECU, it's perfectly feasible, but would be a lot more involve a bit more work. I'd be tempted to split it into 3 separate looms, ECU & ancillaries, Charge Circuit & then everything else.

Contacted Gregg Bender? He doesn't do a harness for the V11 but he might offer some advice or build a custom loom, probably won't be cheap though

Well, the V11 is already two separate looms: Fuel/Ignition/ECU and everything else. Simple enough, actually to split the charging off by itself.

[Weegie]

That would work too @docc

As far as charging I haven't got a V11 let alone a manual, but is the system the single phase Ducati setup like the Sporti?

It should be easy enough to check the whole alternator by conducting an open circuit test disconnecting the yellow wires going from the generator to the RR. Start the bike then measure AC Voltage across the wires. Rev it to 3k or so and you should be seeing 40V AC or something in that order. Checking stator or rotor continuity is usually resisitance checks, personally I'd start with the Open Circuit check, then if that's not good move to the individual components.

Often on a lot of bikes these wires feeding the RR are either sized a bit marginal or their associated connectors and the wires or the connectors are damaged, on some Ducatis it was a known issue.

Looking at the Sport's manual, it shows the connections to the RR is via 2 jack/bannana plugs, I remember on the Sport these could be pulled apart pretty easily, way too easily for my liking. Can't remember what I did, but I did bodge a fix I vaguely recall shrink wrap, to make sure they didn't come apart. I know not very elegant (but way better than electrical tape), but it's worked so far.

r.p.m. 1000 3000 6000
A.C. volts 15 40 80

That's the AC volts from the Sporti manual, but don't know if the V11 has the same set up or not.

Another interesting piece of mumbo jumbo imparted to me by @Kiwi_Roy was the RR on the Sport was a series type and not the more common shunt, a few guys though have installed shunt regulators and reported that they run fine.

You're probably well aware, so my apologies in advance, but before doing system checks, like the voltage output from the RR, make sure the battery is fully charged. Low battery volts (or indeed a duff or dying battery) can pull the system volts down. The battery is like a reservoir or accumulator so it's voltage will have a pronounced effect on the system.

If the battery is dodgy get or borrow another battery from elesewhere while doing the checks.

The change in font is bacause I pulled stuff off the Sport manual