Oil Light Stays On

[Nihontochicken]

Okay, just drained the engine oil.  Only a fine black sludge seen on the magnetic drain plug, no metal shards observed on it or in the drained oil.  However, the proof will be in the oil pan itself, coming up.  Stay tuned for the next exciting episode of "As The Stomach Turns".  

 

[Chuck]

I would have had that pan off yesterday.. good luck! Hopefully it's just the oil pressure sensor.

[Pressureangle]

Ain't dead, but ain't happy. Unless that plug has 3 8k mile oil changes on it.

[Chuck]

^^^^ agreed..

[Nihontochicken]

Okay, got the pan off.  I left the rear oil fitting on as I couldn't get enough swing to loosen the inside nut, the far end of my 19mm wrench was hitting the cement.  Pics below.   The oil filter is still in place and apparently screwed in tight.  Also a shot of the oil pan with residual oil.  

Can anyone identify the filter, or more to the point, name the correct cap wrench to fit it?  I wiped off a lot of the outside oil to see whether I could get a good hand grip on the filter to assess its tightness and unfortunately seemed to wipe away a lot of the print.  It is on reasonably tight, so next to check out if it has a double gasket problem.  If not, I guess it's on to assess the oil pump?

Note the black scunge pictured above was only a small blob that I wiped off the drain plug magnet, the bulk oil doesn't look all that bad (see pics below).  Then again, I'm used to my Yamaha WR250F in which the drained oil came out pitch black after only 300 miles of trail riding every time, though a lot of it was likely due to the aluminum clutch plates.  The engine had 6k hard trail miles on it when I sold it on and it never needed a valve adjustment.  Do V11s run on the other end of the oil color spectrum?

[Nihontochicken]

Third pic is the residual oil in the drain pan, only discoloration is apparently some condensation water (bike was only run 2-3 miles before stopping on its last run).

[footgoose]

looks like a Ufi filter. Get a strap type filter wrench... fits everything. the filter can be tight and still have no seal at the gasket due to it possibly being too thin and threads bottomed out. If nothing else available... and you have another filter at hand, you can jamb a screwdriver all the way through the filter and loosen it that way.

[Lucky Phil]

14 minutes ago, Nihontochicken said:

Okay, got the pan off.  I left the rear oil fitting on as I couldn't get enough swing to loosen the inside nut, the far end of my 19mm wrench was hitting the cement.  Pics below.   The oil filter is still in place and apparently screwed in tight.  Also a shot of the oil pan with residual oil.  

Can anyone identify the filter, or more to the point, name the correct cap wrench to fit it?  I wiped off a lot of the outside oil to see whether I could get a good hand grip on the filter to assess its tightness and unfortunately seemed to wipe away a lot of the print.  It is on reasonably tight, so next to check out if it has a double gasket problem.  If not, I guess it's on to assess the oil pump?

Note the black scunge pictured above was only a small blob that I wiped off the drain plug magnet, the bulk oil doesn't look all that bad (see pics below).  Then again, I'm used to my Yamaha WR250F in which the drained oil came out pitch black after only 300 miles of trail riding every time, though a lot of it was likely due to the aluminum clutch plates.  The engine had 6k hard trail miles on it when I sold it on and it never needed a valve adjustment.  Do V11s run on the other end of the oil color spectrum?

 

I wouldn't be to concerned about the mag plug, depends if it's been regularly cleaned when changing the oil. The filter is a UFI I think, 74mm. May as well check the seal and change it out while your there. Big ends OK?  

Looks like a switch replacement and see how you go. 

Ciao

[footgoose]

Ufi 2328700

Wix 51348

Bosche ST3330

DOUBLE check my numbers!

EDIT, definitely double check. I got those others based on cross references I can no longer find. I'm sure I pulled these from here or WG or I wouldn't have purchased. Someone else chime in please.

the Bosche and the Wix are certainly made in the same factory as they are identical

Edited August 4, 2021 by footgoose
correction

[footgoose]

The NAPA site actually has a filter listed FOR Moto Guzzi!!!!! 2002 LM 1100 cc shows Napagold 1215 and says it's the same as Wix 51215 so who knows

[docc]

6 minutes ago, footgoose said:

The NAPA site actually has a filter listed FOR Moto Guzzi!!!!! 2002 LM 1100 cc shows Napagold 1215 and says it's the same as Wix 51215 so who knows

IIRC, O'Reilly's lists that correct WIX 51215 for the 2000 V11 Sport. Been using those for many, many miles. Tighten 1 and 1/8 turn past oiled gasket contact. "B" filter cup to remove through the filter access plate.

FWIW, I have taken to removing the label sticker, although I have run a few 5,000 miles between oil changes and they did not detach.

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, footgoose said:

Ufi 2328700

Wix 51348

Bosche ST3330

DOUBLE check my numbers!

EDIT, definitely double check. I got those others based on cross references I can no longer find. I'm sure I pulled these from here or WG or I wouldn't have purchased. Someone else chime in please.

the Bosche and the Wix are certainly made in the same factory as they are identical

Just for clarity, because 2 filters are made in the same factory and look externally identical doesn't mean they actually are. Companies like Champion make filters for a lot of different brands and each brand has it's own specification for the filter internals. Things such as filter medium, size, # of pleats, check valve material, cardboard end supports etc. The list is long.

Ciao  

[Weegie]

I also think that's an UFI, AFAIK all Guzzis of that era use the same filter, earlier bikes used a shorther filter.

Quite a lot of black material on the plug, but as Phil stated depends on how often it was cleaned at each change, so I wouldn't "have kittens" over the state of it. Pan looks good to me.

Remove the filter and check the gasket could be damaged, not there, or there could be 2 in place, wouldn't be the first time.

Next is to check the paper sump gaskets are good. Perhaps my OCD and others might disagree, but I'd drop out the internals, 4 cap screws, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear, once they're out, pull the internal rearwards to disnegage the 2 stub pipes to the oil cooler take off. Check where the internals mate to the crankcase for the oil feed and return, inside the pan, and ensure the gasket there is good and flat, I've seen them warped and torn. Check the O ring condition of the stub pipes, I don't think their condition would rob you of all pressure, but if they were damaged it certainly wouldn't help.

So far no smoking gun, but nothing horrendously bad either, fingers crossed.

[Pressureangle]

It seems unlikely, but has anyone ever seen a broken spring or trash holding the pressure regulator open? I've seen it in automotive before, if rarely.
As long as we've opened the 'unlikely scenario' can of worms, has anyone ever seen a sheared oil pump key, where the sprocket remained in place but loose from the pump?

[Weegie]

19 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

It seems unlikely, but has anyone ever seen a broken spring or trash holding the pressure regulator open? I've seen it in automotive before, if rarely.
As long as we've opened the 'unlikely scenario' can of worms, has anyone ever seen a sheared oil pump key, where the sprocket remained in place but loose from the pump?

Never heard of a spring being broken in the PRV, but if @Nihontochicken does remove the internals in the broadsump spacer it's a pretty easy thing to check (providing he has a big enough wrenches)

I've only heard of Woodruff keys coming loose by one or two others on a forum & can neither remember where or recall the circumstances.

I've had to change a few Woodruff keys and the ease with which they install has varied from bloody difficult to frighteningly easy. I remember being nervous about it when replacing one on the Hi Cam for the oil pump