Pressureangle Posted October 5, 2021 Posted October 5, 2021 Ok, some easy checks. If you have a multimeter, measure and record the voltage differential across these points; If you don't have a voltmeter to use, a 12v test lamp will work except on the battery cranking voltage. Battery voltage while static vs. cranking Battery terminal to cable Battery + cable to starter solenoid terminal Starter body to transmission house Transmission house to Battery - cable Battery - cable to battery Battery voltage cranking should not drop below 10.5 volts Voltage drop across the above test points should not exceed .5 volts No test across a connection should have sufficient current to illuminate a test light. I just replaced the starter on my Sport-i because it had a seized bearing, which presented as a bad battery. Cranking voltage was ~5.5v. 2 1
gstallons Posted October 5, 2021 Posted October 5, 2021 16 hours ago, docc said: I mean, true, but ignore them at our peril. But, also, very challenging to understand how they are wired in and what various states of illumination, or not, might indicate. That @dowieze has "starting issues" as well, may make the light absence helpful to the troubleshooting . . . . I'm just messin' w/ya 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now