Stainless Steel bolts in aluminium.

[docc]

6 minutes ago, fotoguzzi said:

Interesting.. can't hardly beat aluminum and steel.

Right? Cadmium plating improves the Galvanic effect between steel and aluminum, but not dramatically. Also, interesting, that there is no Galvanic reactivity between aluminum/steel and brass/bronze.

I once bought a twenty year old motorcycle from a long-time owner who was a career mechanic in oil refineries. The bike had various, odd, gold-colored fasteners all over it. One of my buddies called it "Navy Bronze."  Sure enough that (aka Navy Brass) is a solution to the corrosive effects common to marine applications.

Now that the motorcycle I bought new is over twenty years old, I'm probably behind converting all its fasteners to Navy Bronze . . . 

[Lucky Phil]

I like this chart.

https://www.monarchmetal.com/blog/galvanic-corrosion-common-questions-answered/

 

Ciao

[docc]

2 hours ago, Chris Wilson said:

Sounds like my Roper windage plate that is made of stainless is destined to be one huge anode then if the current flows along those 14 bolts to the case!

 

No worries, Chris! The plate is isolated by the gaskets with no fasteners in contact. This Galvanic Corrosion is more about the thread contact. There are other issues with stainless steel fasteners, as noted.

 

 

[po18guy]

What is not often used is anti-seize compound. On spark plug threads, certainly. However, it can act as a microscopic barrier, or insulator between dissimilar metals. Some anti-seize formulations are claimed to eliminate electrolysis. On principle, they are not going to cause electrolysis or facilitate the action. But, as in life, one must choose wisely. Dad had an olive drab painted military surplus mica based antiseize compound. He would not leave the runway without it, so to speak.  

[Chris Wilson]

10 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

I like this chart.

https://www.monarchmetal.com/blog/galvanic-corrosion-common-questions-answered/

 

Ciao

Interestingly the chart in the linked article shows that stainless steel and aluminium and alloys are not a galvanic corrosion risk.

[Chris Wilson]

My opinion on all of this is that if you park your bike in a dry space under cover such as a garage, resist riding in wet conditions (and who doesn't) then ANY form of corrosion, galvanic or not, will not present itself.

Why? Because you need the presence of an electrolyte ( moisture, preferably salt laden but metal salts will do) is needed to support the process.

The point of the original post was to see if any one has experiences to the opposite.

To me, if you are regularly fastening and unfastening a fixture due to maintenance then monitoring the possibility of corrosion is so much easier.

And here I would rather have a hard metal headed bolt to  deal with rather than something made of cheese that burs or turns out when an attempt is made to remove it.

Many times I have resorted to an impact driver and 4 pound hammer when attempting the removal of OEM plated mild steel bolts and never have I had to resort to these Neanderthal techniques when using stainless fittings.

Light coating of grease, apply thumb and two forefingers only when tightening and never had a thread stripping issue or one come loose yet.

Granted internal bolts like engine studs, big end bolts etc need stretch in order to never come loose but then they arent regularly accessed or re-torqued either  but external bolts that to need regular removal, I would go for stainless every time and simply be aware of what I am doing.

Chris.

 

[Chris Wilson]

Oh, and any bolt that lays claim to the ability of stretch in achieving hold is a single use item and should be discarded after removal because the thread will change.

I don't want the inconvenience of sourcing new bolts everytime my sump is dropped or valve cover is pulled off.

Rant over.

 

[Tomchri]

15 hours ago, po18guy said:

What is not often used is anti-seize compound. On spark plug threads, certainly. However, it can act as a microscopic barrier, or insulator between dissimilar metals. Some anti-seize formulations are claimed to eliminate electrolysis. On principle, they are not going to cause electrolysis or facilitate the action. But, as in life, one must choose wisely. Dad had an olive drab painted military surplus mica based antiseize compound. He would not leave the runway without it, so to speak.  

Todays spark plugs are coated, in writing somewhere,  except for black colored plugs. I use a little anyway .

Cheers Tom.

[Lucky Phil]

45 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Todays spark plugs are coated, in writing somewhere,  except for black colored plugs. I use a little anyway .

Cheers Tom.

True NGK recommend to NOT use any anti seize as the plating on the plug is designed as an "anti seize". Having said that I recently pulled a set of 75,000klm old original plugs out of my car for replacement and the experience wasn't too comfortable. I put anti seize on the new ones and made a note to never let them go more than 50,000klm in future despite what the manufacturer says.

Ciao 

[Tomchri]

And i refuse to replace sparkplugs after 10k with a new bike,,, in the deal when buying,  services necessary bla bla, probably Guzzi content 

Cheers Tom.

[Chris Wilson]

Maybe the key here is to remove, inspect and replace as necessary.

Not set and forget until the use by date calenders around to bite you.

But ..... I have done similar and welding was evident - long life plugs are a trap for this especially with twin plug Guzzi heads using those as a ploy to excuse poor access to them.

Chris.

[po18guy]

In this case, I cast a jaundiced eye toward manufacturer or dealer recommendations. They want your money - everyone does, as it is human nature. I trust the techs, mechanics and pilot-mechanics, as they have hands-on knowledge and experience. I have yet to hear of a fastener failure or thread damage caused by anti-seize compound. Compounds with metallic content must not be gotten on the porcelain at the spark plug tip, but that is the only caveat I am aware of.

[Tomchri]

Just saying, with a V11, it is not  getting FULLY involved hard. Think about it, they look good in all colors,, some even a l better.

Cheers Tom.

[Lucky Phil]

3 hours ago, po18guy said:

In this case, I cast a jaundiced eye toward manufacturer or dealer recommendations. They want your money - everyone does, as it is human nature. I trust the techs, mechanics and pilot-mechanics, as they have hands-on knowledge and experience. I have yet to hear of a fastener failure or thread damage caused by anti-seize compound. Compounds with metallic content must not be gotten on the porcelain at the spark plug tip, but that is the only caveat I am aware of.

Then you haven't been around enough  #1 damage from anti seize compound use is overtorquing the fastener. I've seen plenty of this. The other one is system contamination from using too much antiseize. Boeing 737 pneumatic control valve regulators come to mind.

Ciao 

[Tomchri]

16 hours ago, Tomchri said:

Just saying, with a V11, it is not  getting FULLY involved hard. Think about it, they look good in all colors,, some even a l better.

Cheers Tom.

Ha ha, disregard that, just my eeengliss, or late ⏰ .

Cheers Tom.