BillyB Posted November 30, 2021 Posted November 30, 2021 No not in my underwear, but on my 03 Lemans. I have gear oil leaking from the rear end and it ends up dripping onto the wheel when its on the sidestand. Anyways looking at the parts fiche there's an o-ring (part 24 in the diagram) and a seal (part 27). I should probably just replace both, but if one of these is a common failure, can you let me know, or if neither of these is the likely culprit please chime in. Thanks.
docc Posted November 30, 2021 Posted November 30, 2021 Most likely the big seal, #27. Simple enough to replace the O-ring, #24, as well. The large seal is not hard to change. If the leak appears on the right side of the rear drive, the small seal, #10, needs changing. The crown wheel bearing,#12, must be removed and replaced for this. 1
BillyB Posted November 30, 2021 Author Posted November 30, 2021 On the rear stand (bike level) there's no leak, it only leaks when on the side stand but seems to be leaking out from the bottom of the assembly towards the inside (not out the right side). I'll replace both the seal and o-ring and go from there. Thanks docc. 1
docc Posted November 30, 2021 Posted November 30, 2021 Lengthy thread here, but some good advice throughout….
BillyB Posted November 30, 2021 Author Posted November 30, 2021 Wow, 12 pages... I'll look through it before getting into the job. Thanks again. 1
stewgnu Posted November 30, 2021 Posted November 30, 2021 good time to check needle bearing 31 for grittiness too. And lube the snot out of it. 3
docc Posted November 30, 2021 Posted November 30, 2021 Yeah, I fought with my rear drive for ten years. It was miserable. Pretty sure that’s just one of the threads….. 1
stewgnu Posted December 1, 2021 Posted December 1, 2021 On 11/30/2021 at 5:40 PM, docc said: Yeah, I fought with my rear drive for ten years. It was miserable. Pretty sure that’s just one of the threads….. it’s also known to be one of the heaviest, ultimo densio pieces of engineering known to man 1
docc Posted December 4, 2021 Posted December 4, 2021 On 12/1/2021 at 3:23 PM, stewgnu said: it’s also known to be one of the heaviest, ultimo densio pieces of engineering known to man Hey! my collection resembles that remark! 2 1
MartyNZ Posted December 4, 2021 Posted December 4, 2021 On 12/1/2021 at 5:10 AM, docc said: Most likely the big seal, #27. Simple enough to replace the O-ring, #24, as well. The large seal is not hard to change. If the leak appears on the right side of the rear drive, the small seal, #10, needs changing. The crown wheel bearing,#12, must be removed and replaced for this. Docc's second suggestion is the worst news, but is actually more likely. if the RH end of the crown wheel has rust pits on it, then the #10 seal needs to be replaced, after you blend out the rust (if minor) or fit a seal saver (if rust will chew out the new seal). Be aware of the seal orientation. It looks to be in backwards when correctly fitted. A leaky #10 seal allows oil to travel along the axle cavity inside the crown wheel, and the leak shows coming out the LH side of the box. 1
guzziart Posted December 5, 2021 Posted December 5, 2021 Hi, While we're on the rear drive....is there anyone manufacturing or have available a spanner socket for the ringnut (#18) that retains the pinion assembly? I'm at a point where I've got a ringnut on order for the purpose of making my own spanner. I'd prefer to buy one already made since my machine shop consists of a cut-off wheel & Dremel tool. Art Rear Drive Spanner.docx 1
guzziart Posted December 5, 2021 Posted December 5, 2021 Also, I haven't figured out how to post pics here.
Lucky Phil Posted December 5, 2021 Posted December 5, 2021 49 minutes ago, guzziart said: Hi, While we're on the rear drive....is there anyone manufacturing or have available a spanner socket for the ringnut (#18) that retains the pinion assembly? I'm at a point where I've got a ringnut on order for the purpose of making my own spanner. I'd prefer to buy one already made since my machine shop consists of a cut-off wheel & Dremel tool. Art Rear Drive Spanner.docx 100.54 kB · 1 download Yes it's called a hammer and drift. It doesn't need to be too tight. Ciao 1
guzziart Posted December 5, 2021 Posted December 5, 2021 Hi Phil, I originally started down that road but after chewing up a couple brass drifts I switched to a steel one that began to destroy the nut. So, I figure before I get to the point of no return, I'd make or get a spanner socket. The drive is original to the bike and was replaced by the PO about 15 years ago because it leaked. I'd like to get this unit back into the bike because it is low mileage (under 6k), nothing needs to be shimmed and the paint finish matches the engine & trans. Yeah, I don't get why the ringnut is so tight other than maybe corrosion, the drive looks to have been well cared for during it's out of service years. Oh well. Thanks, Art
PhillipLarsen Posted December 5, 2021 Posted December 5, 2021 What I did when I needed to remove the #18 nut was buy a half inch drive socket the exact right OD and then use angle grinder with a thin hard wheel to cutout the socket to create the tool. It only took about 30 minutes to create it and worked very well. To hold everything while I removed the nut I reinstalled the rear end without the drive shaft and used the brake to hold everything from turning while I removed the nut. The nut was very tight, but worked well with a second person to hold the brake on.
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