Is Throttle Rotation Necessary For Cold Starts?

[po18guy]

1 minute ago, docc said:

Haha, so, this reminds me of the fairly early idea to swap the High Idle Spring for the Seat Latch Spring and both work better.

Mine did!

I have learned to never throw a spring away. Shampoo and soap pumps have useful sized stainless springs in them.

[p6x]

I have tried both methods;

Using the Guzzi operator's manual method, e.g. hand throttle at max amplitude, crank, start, adjust revs. Note as the engine warms, rpm increase so you have to slowly adjust.

Mine, which works just as well: crank with throttle closed, open when engine fires.

 

[guzzler]

46 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Try leaving the throttle alone and applying the cold idle lever instead before you hit the button. How much you ask? Depends how it's adjusted as they tend to have a fair amount of "dead band" if adjusted properly. Move the lever while looking at the mechanism on the r/h throttle body until it starts moving the throttle shaft to get an idea of the size of the dead band then give it a little bit more for a cold start and crank it and don't mess with the throttle. When it fires it will probably go straight to 2000rpm or so and you can then slowly back it off to a high idle of 16-1800 rpm for a minute and then off and use the throttle.

I think playing with the throttle at low cranking speeds isn't the optimal scenario for the ecu trying to apply the correct injector timing duration.

Ciao 

Cheers mate.

I might just give that a whirl next start up!

Hopefully that'll be sometime soon, been 5 weeks so she'll be well and truly cold....

[guzzler]

46 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Try leaving the throttle alone and applying the cold idle lever instead before you hit the button. How much you ask? Depends how it's adjusted as they tend to have a fair amount of "dead band" if adjusted properly. Move the lever while looking at the mechanism on the r/h throttle body until it starts moving the throttle shaft to get an idea of the size of the dead band then give it a little bit more for a cold start and crank it and don't mess with the throttle. When it fires it will probably go straight to 2000rpm or so and you can then slowly back it off to a high idle of 16-1800 rpm for a minute and then off and use the throttle.

I think playing with the throttle at low cranking speeds isn't the optimal scenario for the ecu trying to apply the correct injector timing duration.

Ciao 

Cheers mate.

I might just give that a whirl next start up!

Hopefully that'll be sometime soon, been 5 weeks so she'll be well and truly cold....

[guzzler]

Bloody hell , I've got the stutters now...

Please disregard the double up, I must be hovering round the 3 -4 k wobbly zone myself!

Cheers Guzzler

[guzziart]

Hi,

- I did the seat/high cam spring swap a few years ago.  I think I checked cable slack to make sure I got full high cam but will recheck.

- I don't recall whether I move to high cam before or after ign "on".....in the Spring I'll try to figure out if either makes a difference for my bike.

Thanks!

Art

[cash1000]

On 12/11/2021 at 1:32 PM, docc said:

Haha, so, this reminds me of the fairly early idea to swap the High Idle Spring for the Seat Latch Spring and both work better.

Mine did!

One of the 1st mods I did when I got my V11. Still working after 77,000 kms